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Advice.... on metal prep and cleaning

Started by Greg, April 19, 2020, 08:20:38 PM

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Greg

I have been working on and restoring vehicles since I was a kid and like many of you, I started out crude, wire brush and brake clean, dawn dish detergent and then a coat of paint.  Then I purchased my first blast cabinet and blasted everything because it was easy :-).  Through the years my methods have evolved for the better and I find that the more I have done, the more appreciation I have for "gentle" cleaning to preserve markings and correct paint. 

The advice I have for anyone getting into the hobby is to gently clean your parts with various cleaners.  It will take more time but you will be really pleased as the finishes are preserved.  I don't blast very much unless it is cast iron or sheet metal that is going to be painted.

I use a small fine wire brush with acetone and/or paint thinner to clean most parts.  I have a heated parts washer that I will use for large items but I'm really careful with any aluminum or soft metal parts as they will oxidize fast.  Cast iron gets an overnight soak and soft parts get 20-30 mins then a clean water bath.  Evaporust is a great cleaner for most anything.  Be very careful cleaning anything rubber and don't use purple power type cleaners as the rubber will give up its "fat" and will dry out and crack over time, use dish detergent. 

I use a tumbler for some small parts but I find I don't use it much anymore.  I coat anything bare with Boshield.  If I do blast any metal and I'm not ready to paint, I wipe the part down with Picklex 20, it works great.   

I have had to learn the hard way on what works and what doesn't and would like to help anyone that isn't that familiar before they destroy a really great part with the wrong cleaning methods

On any restoration, 85% is planning, preparation and cleaning for a great result.

Don't forget to wear your PPE, gloves, masks and eye protection.

Shelby's and Fords from Day 1

kjspeed

Thanks for the advice Greg. I'm working on my 68 GT project and because I'm in Florida I can almost watch the flash rust appear before my eyes after sanding/blasting. I just ordered a jug of the Picklex 20 and I'm anxious to see how well it works on what I'm doing.
1968 Shelby GT350
1968 Mustang GT S-code
2009 Mustang Bullitt

Greg

Quote from: kjspeed on April 20, 2020, 10:20:48 AM
Thanks for the advice Greg. I'm working on my 68 GT project and because I'm in Florida I can almost watch the flash rust appear before my eyes after sanding/blasting. I just ordered a jug of the Picklex 20 and I'm anxious to see how well it works on what I'm doing.

Glad to share and help, Picklex 20 is expensive but it doesn't take much, I think you will like it.
Shelby's and Fords from Day 1

roddster

  As always, use plenty of "elbow grease".