News:

We have implemented a Photo Gallery for hosting images right here on SAACFORUM. Check the How-To in News from HQ

Main Menu

1968 GT350 Bell housing finish

Started by Corey Bowcutt, March 08, 2018, 12:07:26 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Corey Bowcutt

Another question before I remove and replace my transmission and clutch.  Currently my bell housing is painted blue.  Is this correct for a February 1968 GT350 bell housing?  While it is off I may as well get it right.

Bob Gaines

Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on March 08, 2018, 12:07:26 PM
Another question before I remove and replace my transmission and clutch.  Currently my bell housing is painted blue.  Is this correct for a February 1968 GT350 bell housing?  While it is off I may as well get it right.
Bare aluminum with no overspray. I would chemically strip the blue paint off . Hopefully when that is done you will find that it has never been bead blasted. The original finish once bead blasted will be difficult if not impossible to replicate.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Corey Bowcutt

Thank you Bob!  That is what I was hoping as far as finish is concerned. I will keep my fingers crossed for no bead blasting.

OldMil

Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 08, 2018, 12:19:35 PM
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on March 08, 2018, 12:07:26 PM
Another question before I remove and replace my transmission and clutch.  Currently my bell housing is painted blue.  Is this correct for a February 1968 GT350 bell housing?  While it is off I may as well get it right.
Bare aluminum with no overspray. I would chemically strip the blue paint off . Hopefully when that is done you will find that it has never been bead blasted. The original finish once bead blasted will be difficult if not impossible to replicate.

Bob, are you saying that there was a type of finish/sealer/paint from the factory that would be removed from blasting, or that the original aluminum just has a "patina" after the years that would be hard to duplicate after stripping? 

PR

If the paint is good, clean kit good and spray paint it with duplacolor, cars coat aluminum, it will look great , fast and easy, unless you have a concourse car go the other, a hot jet spray machine at local machine shop also is a option

Bob Gaines

Quote from: OldMil on March 09, 2018, 07:58:50 AM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 08, 2018, 12:19:35 PM
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on March 08, 2018, 12:07:26 PM
Another question before I remove and replace my transmission and clutch.  Currently my bell housing is painted blue.  Is this correct for a February 1968 GT350 bell housing?  While it is off I may as well get it right.
Bare aluminum with no overspray. I would chemically strip the blue paint off . Hopefully when that is done you will find that it has never been bead blasted. The original finish once bead blasted will be difficult if not impossible to replicate.

Bob, are you saying that there was a type of finish/sealer/paint from the factory that would be removed from blasting, or that the original aluminum just has a "patina" after the years that would be hard to duplicate after stripping?
The smooth finish and original as cast look of the bare metal will be lost with blasting. You can tumble the bellhosing in the right media and it will bring it back some just like with distributor housings and such but it will not have the same look as never been blasted. finding a tumbler big enough for a SB bellhousing might prove a problem in your area. Painting with aluminum paint is the last resort with a too coarse of media blasted bellhousing IMO. The faux finish painting short cut is easier to do but will not give get even near the same look in comparison.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Greg

Bob,

What is your opinion of glass beading at low pressure 25-30psi?  I have seen pretty good results from that and then applying heat.

Greg
Shelby's and Fords from Day 1

gt350shelb

baking soda  blasting at low pressure will also give good results without marring surface .  I have  used it on bronze portholes that still had glass in it  and it  does not damage the glass.
Some where some one is driving their collector car for the last time but they don't know it . Drive your car every time like it could be the last memory of it .

Bob Gaines

Quote from: Greg on March 09, 2018, 01:05:37 PM
Bob,

What is your opinion of glass beading at low pressure 25-30psi?  I have seen pretty good results from that and then applying heat.

Greg
The low pressure blasting will clean it but also change the finish. IF the bell hasn't been blasted and there is paint or grease on it then chemically strip it is best . If it has already been blasted all bets are off.  The bell housing in the tunnel is typically protected from the elements and if covered in grease that is all the better from a preservation standpoint. That is different then a bell that has been taken off and left in a field or outside parts pile to rot.   After chemically striping it and there are areas that may have a little oxidation you can play with those problem areas with a little mothers or semichrome . If it becomes too shiny you go over the area with a wire wheel cleaner or aluminum wash to dull it down. There are many variables and I just touched on a few techniques. I haven't tried soda blasting on this part because I have been successful using other methods. I have used that on carb bodies with good results so maybe. If I soda blasted the part I would still chemically strip if painted or greasy first and then do finial clean with soda . That is if I was determined to do it with the baking soda. That is just me others may think differently.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas

Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 09, 2018, 02:34:29 PM
Quote from: Greg on March 09, 2018, 01:05:37 PM
Bob,

What is your opinion of glass beading at low pressure 25-30psi?  I have seen pretty good results from that and then applying heat.

Greg
The low pressure blasting will clean it but also change the finish. IF the bell hasn't been blasted and there is paint or grease on it then chemically strip it is best . If it has already been blasted all bets are off.  The bell housing in the tunnel is typically protected from the elements and if covered in grease that is all the better from a preservation standpoint. That is different then a bell that has been taken off and left in a field or outside parts pile to rot.   After chemically striping it and there are areas that may have a little oxidation you can play with those problem areas with a little mothers or semichrome . If it becomes too shiny you go over the area with a wire wheel cleaner or aluminum wash to dull it down. There are many variables and I just touched on a few techniques. I haven't tried soda blasting on this part because I have been successful using other methods. I have used that on carb bodies with good results so maybe. If I soda blasted the part I would still chemically strip if painted or greasy first and then do finial clean with soda . That is if I was determined to do it with the baking soda. That is just me others may think differently.
+1
Owned since 1971, NOW DRIVEN OVER 250,000 MILES, makes me smile every time I drive it and it makes me feel 21 again.😎