Removing 67 Steering Wheel - Stuck

[Shelby_r_b]

I know this was discussed on Forum 1.0, but I can't remember what was said.

I need to replace my turn signal switch (hazards work great, the turn signal flasher has power through it and power through the harness up to the turn signal harness connection), and, therefore, need to remove the steering wheel.  The nut is lose / off, and wheel is not budging.  I remember someone saying to soak the threaded part (or even shoot it down the crack between the wheel and the column) with some type of solvent, but I can't remember what it was.  I tried my old method used on #22 where I left the nut partially threaded (so the wheel doesn't come flying off at you - ask me how I know) and then hitting the center metal arms of the steering wheel with a rubber mallet.  No bueno.

Please advise - thanks!

[jk66gt350]

What has worked for me is leaving the nut on, but with the nut loosened until the top of the nut is flush with the top of the center threaded post.  One person needs to pull up on both sides of the steering wheel while a second person hits the top of the post / nut with a decent size metal hammer, not rubber. If the nut is flush with the top of the post, or very slightly higher, no damage will be done to the post or nut, and the wheel should come loose.   

[6s1640]

When you pull on the wheel, pull as close as you can to the center to not bend the spokes.  The rubber mallet is too soft of a hit.  The decent size metal hammer is the way.

Good luck

Cory

[Bill Collins]

One other method that was discussed on Forum 1.0 was to get the front wheels off the ground, then spin the steering wheel hard lock to lock several times in both directions. The shock when it reaches the end of the travel often breaks it loose.

[Bob Gaines]

 If you don't want to mess around and want a sure fire way then try this . I got  a air hammer tool (about 20.00 at harbor freight) then took one of the chisel attachment and cut it off square with a cutoff saw so I had a blunt end. Unscrew the nut to the end of the thread . I had a friend hold firmly on two spokes one in each hand . While the friend was putting upward pressure on the spokes I would do a couple second rat a tat tat on the end of the shaft protected by the nut with the air hammer with blunt attachment and off it comes . It typically is that quick .Some that are stubborn may require a second hit . I have done somewhere between 50 and 100 this way over the years. The wheel is a interference fit on the shaft and the vibration from the air hammer breaks it loose. You can see similar success with a brass hammer instead of my air hammer but the air hammer is sure fire and the brass hammer not so much. Best of luck however you decide to do it.

[557]

If you are practicing proper social distancing and have to "go it alone" you can apply steady upward pressure with your thighs and tap the middle of the shaft  with a hammer.Worked for me.Remember to leave the nut on loosely to save the threads AND your teeth....l

[Shelby_r_b]

Thanks to all!  I really appreciate the advise - great stuff.  Again, another reason why I love this forum!  Multiple great answers within a couple hours - TRULY appreciate.

...and, I feel like I should now start a new thread on "When things didn't go well" to share stories of poor choices.  I could fill that thread daily for a year solid!

[Rukiddin]

Steering wheel puller. Some doubled as dampner puller. Safer and effective

[KR Convertible]

The puller is much safer.  I learned that lesson the hard way last year.  I was working on a 65 convertible and used the hammer method.  Gave the shaft a tap and watched the needle on my 8,000 rpm tach jump up to 1000 rpm and not return.  The solder joint on the hair spring let go.  If you are up for a challenge, try soldering one of those springs!   

It may have been a fluke, but the hammer method can be quite jarring to the entire dash.

[Shelby_r_b]

Unfortunately, you cannot use a steering wheel puller on an original 67 Shelby steering wheel, as there is no way to connect it.  Trust me - I wish I could!

[GT350DAVE]

I sent you a PM. I have a special puller designed for the application you can borrow.
Dave

[JD]

Unfortunately, you cannot use a steering wheel puller on an original 67 Shelby steering wheel, as there is no way to connect it.  Trust me - I wish I could!

^^^ yes, also I've removed them without help, just not as easy.

[S7MS427]

Unfortunately, you cannot use a steering wheel puller on an original 67 Shelby steering wheel, as there is no way to connect it.  Trust me - I wish I could!

^^^ yes, also I've removed them without help, just not as easy.

I had that issue as well when I removed my steering wheel after it cracked while backing out of a parking space.  You can't get a puller in between the steering wheel and the steering column collar (wish I'd known about Dave's special tool back then!). Rather than destroying the steering wheel, I elected to sacrifice the steering column collar. Very frustrating experience.

[Shelby_r_b]

I sent you a PM. I have a special puller designed for the application you can borrow.
Dave

Thanks Dave!  I just replied to your PM.

[Skidado]

I sent you a PM. I have a special puller designed for the application you can borrow.
Dave

Dave - could you post details and/or photos of your special puller?  I'm sure many of us could use an effective tool that doesn't cause any damage to the wheel.

Many thanks

David