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Removing GT-350 quarter window aluminum trim

Started by kingchief, April 24, 2020, 02:37:12 PM

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kingchief

Hi, my quarter panel aluminum trim is starting to oxidize in multiple places.  I would like to remove them to clean them up by sanding away the oxidation and subsequently polishing the aluminum.  Is there a trick to removing them without damaging the paint???  I have the article from Mustang Monthly on how to properly install them but I need to remove them without causing any damage...if possible!  Thanks for looking!

All the best, Steve
SFM 6S406

Bob Gaines

Quote from: kingchief on April 24, 2020, 02:37:12 PM
Hi, my quarter panel aluminum trim is starting to oxidize in multiple places.  I would like to remove them to clean them up by sanding away the oxidation and subsequently polishing the aluminum.  Is there a trick to removing them without damaging the paint???  I have the article from Mustang Monthly on how to properly install them but I need to remove them without causing any damage...if possible!  Thanks for looking!

All the best, Steve
Steve ,since you said that they are oxidizing in places leads me to believe that they may still have the Brite Dip anodizing like when new. The anodizing degrades with time in places and not typically all over or all at once. This clear coating is difficult to sand through . I have seen some that the sanding through it caused a irregular surface after because the coating was thinner in spots . I would consider chemically stripping them first . Don't ask me the best thing to use on anodizing because I have forgotten what I used. If you do choose to sand through the anodizing proceed with caution. FYI most choose to not anodize them after polishing and choose to re polish every so often. You can carefully do that successfully on the car by taping off . There is a difference between the Brite Dip anodizing process used by the MFG and the regular anodizing done by most platers. The Brite Dip is a commercial process leaves a shiny protective surface surface on aluminum trim. Regular anodizing a duller surface on shiny aluminum. You can really tell a big difference between the two process. I have seen many that used the regular process and they look much duller . A polished Shelby 1/4 window trim is much better looking then a dull incorrect anodize job.  Many platers that do the Brite Dip process advertise in Hemmings. Be careful if you choose to go that route because believe it or not many platers don't know the difference and say they do (only if asked) the process but in reality don't. Typically safer with the ones that advertise that they do.  A un anodized polished finish looks slightly different when compared side by side to one polished and brite dip anodized but only minimally . The correct look should be noticed by concours judges but easily over looked because of the minimal difference. I wanted to make sure you are aware of the differences so that you and others reading can make a informed decision that makes the most sense to your situation.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

kingchief

Thank you Bob.  From what I have been able to understand, removing the aluminum trim is a bigger task than my expertise.  I am terrified of pop rivets!  I shall just tape them off again and use some product to clean/remove the oxidation.  I have done this before but a pain!

Thanks again and all the best,

Steve
SFM 6S406

Bob Gaines

Quote from: kingchief on April 25, 2020, 09:14:29 AM
Thank you Bob.  From what I have been able to understand, removing the aluminum trim is a bigger task than my expertise.  I am terrified of pop rivets!  I shall just tape them off again and use some product to clean/remove the oxidation.  I have done this before but a pain!

Thanks again and all the best,

Steve
Yes the rivets are a pain . Although there are various alternatives ,for best results a special designed small head angle drill to remove rivets is needed to lessen the chance of damage to plastic trim and the same goes for special tool installing the black anodized trim rivets.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

J_Speegle

You can sometimes find, on original cars, where the SA workers were not always successful at not leaving a mark or two front eh process of installing the rivets on the inside surface of the plexiglass. Not that someone should IMHO intentionally try and reproduce that mistake on every car.  :o
Jeff Speegle- Mustang & Shelby detail collector, ConcoursMustang.com mentor :) and Judge

cob4ra

The secret to 23 years of perfect finish on them ? Have them polished and clear powder coated 👍 no more maintenance and will look like your first day always .
1966 Shelby GT350 Hertz 1680 ( previously 6s1842;6s1818)                                                  2000 Saleen S281 Speedster.                              Previously two sunbeam tigers and have owned 24 mustangs ; 4 Mercury Cyclones and one 1960 Fiat 600!

Rocket

If you drill out the rivets, be very careful because the heat from the bit can melt the plastic. It's been years since I did this, but I think I used side cutters to cut off the top of the rivet, then punched out the body of the rivet out of the hole. Ron
Original owner of 6S550. Owned since 1967. 64,000 Miles, all body original except hood and front valance. All glass original except windshield. Still has aluminum 4 speed. Has replacement Mico.  Also own 1966 Mustang convertible. They are drivers, not trailer queens.

kingchief

SFM 6S406