question for the experts

[Bossssssss]

Hi Gents,
I am doing a clutch job on a 67 350 and want to replace the equalizer arm as the pivot holes are all hogged out. Car has a 289 K code HiPo in it and I see where the equalizer arm is unique to the k code vs a regular 289.

The car has Tri-Y headers on it.

Is the equalizer arm for the K code differently shaped to clear the original K code exhaust manifolds (which I know were differently shaped compared to the non-K code exhaust manifolds)?

Can I just buy a new non-K code equalizer bar since this car is running Tri-Y's?   

TIA

[Greg]

My suggestion, take the original arm out, weld up the holes and re-drill them.  A lot cheaper and will last the rest of you life.

[Bossssssss]

Thanks Greg. I have not yet taken the arm down. I will do that shortly. Just pulled the transmission late last night.
I am not sure of what equalizer arm that is in there. It could be a regular 289 equalizer arm. The car is a real Shelby but it had a very hard life and a lot of things were changed many times over the years and was raced, so I doubt the equalizer arm is a K code version. I am not even sure of what a K code version looks like to compare it. I see NPD sells K code equalizers arms for 67 K codes , but they do not show a picture of it. I will do some more digging.

Thanks again for the feedback.

Mark

[Bossssssss]

Also want to know what size clutch the 67 289 HiPo used. Was it 10" or 10.4" or 10.5" or ? 

This car actually has a 66 K code HiPo in it along with the 4 speed out of the same 66 K code fastback (so they are matched). PO installed a 10" clutch (as I measured it late last night after getting it removed).

[Greg]

The equalizer could be original as it is different than a standard non HiPo equalizer because it has to clear the headers.  Post a picture of it and I am sure others will be able to give great advice.

[67 GT350]

That darn eq arm is a mystery....what would be the difference between the regular small block and a hipo, is it just that it is stronger? My GT350 was a manual and I put it back to auto, in looking at my bar, it appears to have metal welded to it, if that the difference?

BTY BOSSSSSSS, that is my NY Plate!

[shelbydoug]

The K code equalizer IS different to clear the left side exhaust manifold. The short arm to the clutch rod is as far to the block side as it will go.

It is not stronger then any other arm. It's the same soft steel construction.


An important factor to consider is that the original Ford part was designed only to work with the original clutch in the car. That clutch was never a serviced part and was only a production line part.

It was a 2,600 pound clutch. The service part from Ford at the time was a Ford Rebuilt unit and was rated at 2,800 pounds.


The service equalizer was not a heat treated part. It is soft untempered steel and the long arm doesn't have the strength to not twist under the load of anything greater then the original 2,600 pound clutch.

As far as I see and experience ALL aftermarket clutches are in the 3,200 pound range. They are going to twist up a "stock" equalizer like a piece of licorice candy.

You need to use a reinforced equalizer bar. That means it is either thicker on the long arm, seriously heat treated or both in order to not twist up.


You wouldn't see the failure immediately. What will happen is the long arm will bend a little at a time until it gets to the point that the clutch pedal can't travel far enough to release the clutch. That takes a little time. Maybe a few weeks, but it will fail unless you reinforce and temper the steel.


For me, one of the things I've learned over the years is how to make my own equalizer bars. This helps me since I have changed configurations in my 68 so many times between engine blocks, exhaust manifolds and headers that each time I needed a different configuration. I just started making my own and I suppose learned the techniques of the "village blacksmith" in how to temper soft steel into hardened steel.

It also taught me how to weld to survive.

Necessity is the Mother of invention in my case. It also came to be that form follows function and that isn't necessarily a pretty thing. Those are thick heavy welds and you can probably measure the weight of them on a bathroom scale.

A Concourse Judge would die of a conniption if they see it. I'm not sure if they are "innocent" individuals, but keep in mind that we should attempt to protect the innocent?


A quick way to recognize a "reinforced" equalizer is to look into the open end of the round tube.

The stock unit isn't very thick in the wall of the tube. Less then 1/8".

I found it necessary to go to a thicker wall and I use 3/16" wall DOM steel tube like on a motorcycle chassis.

The reason I mention this is that you may be buying from an unknowledgeable seller and when you ask them questions, they are just going to yes you. "Yes, yes, yes, this is the 'high-performance' equalizer", not knowing at all what they are talking about. Lots of them out there unfortunately.

[Bossssssss]

That darn eq arm is a mystery....what would be the difference between the regular small block and a hipo, is it just that it is stronger? My GT350 was a manual and I put it back to auto, in looking at my bar, it appears to have metal welded to it, if that the difference?

BTY BOSSSSSSS, that is my NY Plate!

Now that is interesting because I ran that NY plate for many years in the 80's. I still have those old plates too. I live in the Binghamton area. Where are you located?

[Bossssssss]

Thanks ShelbyDoug.

My plan is to keep the pressure plate stock as long as I can find one. I am not going to put in anything where its going to twist up the equalizer arm as I am just doing a one for one replacement.

I do have experience in other cars going to high perf pressure plates and I know what you mean. Next thing you know, after the equalizer arm reinforcement comes the firewall and under cowl area. It never ends when you start modifying.

Thanks again for the help 

[67 GT350]

That darn eq arm is a mystery....what would be the difference between the regular small block and a hipo, is it just that it is stronger? My GT350 was a manual and I put it back to auto, in looking at my bar, it appears to have metal welded to it, if that the difference?

BTY BOSSSSSSS, that is my NY Plate!

Now that is interesting because I ran that NY plate for many years in the 80's. I still have those old plates too. I live in the Binghamton area. Where are you located?

Mine has the MAX of 8 characters.

[Bossssssss]

Hi ShelbyDoug - where the factory clutches 10" or a different size? The equalizer arm in there now looks like it has been beefed up and the car only has a 10" clutch. I will probably just stick with the 10" clutch size and find new replacement disc and pressure plate. Maybe I can find a pressure plate in the 2600 lb weight in a 10" size?

[shelbydoug]

Thanks ShelbyDoug.

My plan is to keep the pressure plate stock as long as I can find one. I am not going to put in anything where its going to twist up the equalizer arm as I am just doing a one for one replacement.

I do have experience in other cars going to high perf pressure plates and I know what you mean. Next thing you know, after the equalizer arm reinforcement comes the firewall and under cowl area. It never ends when you start modifying.

Thanks again for the help

Did you miss the point? The stock 2,600 pound clutch ONLY existed off of the production line. All replacements START at 2,800, which in my case I found even that bent the equalizer.

You need to find your own way. I'm just trying to save you some major pain and disappointments. Happy Trails. 

[Bossssssss]

That darn eq arm is a mystery....what would be the difference between the regular small block and a hipo, is it just that it is stronger? My GT350 was a manual and I put it back to auto, in looking at my bar, it appears to have metal welded to it, if that the difference?

BTY BOSSSSSSS, that is my NY Plate!

Now that is interesting because I ran that NY plate for many years in the 80's. I still have those old plates too. I live in the Binghamton area. Where are you located?

Mine has the MAX of 8 characters.

I had that EXACT plate in the 80's max characters in in NY LOL - I let it expire many years ago. You may have seen it at one of the shows? I did a lot of shows in the 80s and early 90's in NY.

[Bossssssss]

Thanks ShelbyDoug.

My plan is to keep the pressure plate stock as long as I can find one. I am not going to put in anything where its going to twist up the equalizer arm as I am just doing a one for one replacement.

I do have experience in other cars going to high perf pressure plates and I know what you mean. Next thing you know, after the equalizer arm reinforcement comes the firewall and under cowl area. It never ends when you start modifying.

Thanks again for the help

Did you miss the point? The stock 2,600 pound clutch ONLY existed off of the production line. All replacements START at 2,800, which in my case I found even that bent the equalizer.

You need to find your own way. I'm just trying to save you some major pain and disappointments. Happy Trails. 

I did miss it at first but reposted (post #10) asking if you think I might find a 2600lb one in 10" size? Do you know the original clutch size? Maybe someone downsized mine as mine is 10" - probably the lo-po version LOL.

[shelbydoug]

Hi ShelbyDoug - where the factory clutches 10" or a different size? The equalizer arm in there now looks like it has been beefed up and the car only has a 10" clutch. I will probably just stick with the 10" clutch size and find new replacement disc and pressure plate. Maybe I can find a pressure plate in the 2600 lb weight in a 10" size?

You know? I don't remember. I've been running an 11" for so long that's a little foggy but I think it was a 10-1/2"?

The most recently that I used a 10" was in my SHO Taurus. That got superceded by Ford to a 10-1/2". Consider the difference in torque between a 3.0L and a 4.7L? I think a 10" is a little under sized but like I said, I've been running 11's since the '70s and even those WOULD slip pretty bad under certain circumstances.

The pressure rating comes from the springs loaded into the pressure plate, not the size of the disc.

I made three runs at a drag strip and by the third run, the clutch was gone. Street tire too.

If I hadn't trailered, I'd of been Royally screwed.


Randy running with an automatic has it's advantages! Plus if the Shelby breaks, he can always run the Ranchero.