Restoration progress

[davez]

I have used the dustless blasting method and it does a great job but it is terribly messy.  The problem is the slurry is a nasty mess like mud that has to be cleaned once dried.  They also spray the car down with a solution which prevents rust immediately and it works.  I kept one bare metal inside a garage for about 3 years and it did not flash rust :-).

Do you mean cleaning the mud slurry from the ground, or off the car itself?  What did you do before painting if anything to clean off the rust preventative?

[davez]

Sanded the body with 180 and scuff pads. Gave it a bath in Picklex

[davez]

apron markins
large D on each kickpanel area
HP on drivers rear apron outer under the hood hinge mounts
R on radiator support I'm guessing was for the color? ivy Green

[J_Speegle]

Haven't seen an HP in that location before - interesting. Guess filler guy or someone doodling. Of course all but the last making (top picture to bottom) would have been "hidden" under the layer of black paint and in that one location sound deadener.

Can't make out the location of the bottom picture. Where is that a picture of


Thanks

[davez]

Haven't seen an HP in that location before - interesting. Guess filler guy or someone doodling. Of course all but the last making (top picture to bottom) would have been "hidden" under the layer of black paint and in that one location sound deadener.

Can't make out the location of the bottom picture. Where is that a picture of


Thanks

I was surprised to see an HP there also. Almost wiped it out during blasting and I started seeing the yellow show up. I spent a bunch of time with laquer thinner and a rag unearthing the others.
Large D's are on the inside of each kick panel. Photo is passenger side under dash.
Previous owner wiped out all the markings that are supposed to be on top of the black based on some of the VA Mustang restoration threads.
Are there any that I can put back on with confidence?
Obviously wont know the numbers for the fender carts where the bumper brackets bolt up.
Whats the best yellow marker to use to put back the markings before paint?
I have a  paint marker from a welding supply but it's pretty runny.

[J_Speegle]

Thanks  In the interior is different.

Any that you found on the car and have documented should surely be replicated since its a part of the findings and history of the car.

I've used permanent lumber or crayon markers in the past with no problem painting over the marks. At just the right angle they can be seen in the finished product. Of course hardened paint does not allow them to bleed through like they originally did. Might be a good thing since, as time passed the material spread out across the panel under the paint making the lettering and numbering allot larger than the day they were applied

The examples below are likely "bolder" than they were day one. Note: different car, year and application




The fender hook numbers would repeat themselves and the patterns as well as digits used have been documented. Your choice to replacement is your choice at this point. Kind of depends on the direction you have chosen for the car during your ownership. In any case keep the documentation with the car.

[davez]

updated progress
stripped hood and redone bonding area between metal frame and  fiberglass skin

[davez]

body in oxide

[davez]

and after a lot of weekends of priming and blocking and fitting and adjusting more priming
final primer on 1127 is done

[greekz]

Looking good, Dave.

Greek

[davez]

Looking good, Dave.

Greek
Thanks
Getting there

[2112]

Looking good, Dave.

Greek

+1

[Shelby_r_b]

DEFINITELY getting there!  Nice, Dave!

[JD]

Looking good, Dave.

Greek

+1

+3

[deathsled]

Always exciting to see them in that state, knowing that completion is looming ever closer.