try-y headers on a 67 GT350

[smallblock289]

Hi,
     Wonder if anyone can help , I run 67 GT350 no 1789 over here in England . I intend to fit a set of try-y headers , will these fit without too much modifying with the big hammer treatment as I have  the motor fitted with a Cobra t pan. The car is an auto so no clutch z bar problems.Many thanks to anyone who may be of help. Steve.

[greekz]

Steve,

I have been running Try-y's on my '67 for almost 30 years.  They fit right in with no problem since the engine bay is larger on a '67.  My car is also and an automatic.  You will need the extended bracket the mounts to the frame, lowering the power steering cylinder attachment point.

[smallblock289]

Thanks for letting me know , do you use the Cobra ally T pan .

[Rickmustang]

I ran tri ys on my 68 GT 500. Fit great with a small dimple around the bell housing. You won't have that problem. I dropped my power steering cylinder with the bracket for a while and then removed it and it was fine.

[greekz]

Thanks for letting me know , do you use the Cobra ally T pan .

Yes, I am using a Cobra T-Pan.

[Jim Herrud]

I have a '65 restomod, so it's a bit different than your '67, but my experience may apply. I too have the Cobra T-pan. I found that there is a considerable fit and quality difference between at least two tri-y header vendors.  A few years ago, I bought a set of headers from one of the big Mustang vendors. I don't recall who or what I paid, but based on how cheap I am, it was likely in the $250 range. When it came time to get my exhaust fitted, I had these headers blasted and prepped for ceramic coating. I took them into my local high-performance exhaust shop. They looked at my headers and told me I would likely be unhappy with these. They pointed out that the flanges and pipe walls were both thin and the design had some significant interference with aftermarket parts I had in my restomod.

They suggested that I look for a better quality set of headers and made some recommendations. They said they couldn't get better pricing than I could myself, so they suggested I simply contact the vendors directly. They coached me on how to properly evaluate the headers. I wound up going with "Stan's Headers" (which apparently is also the source for "FPA Headers"). I paid $588 + $50 shipping for "260Y" Tri-Y's plus $200 for ceramic coating. There was still a slight interference with my aftermarket R&P box, but it was easily addressed. Plenty of clearance for everything else and they tuck up nice and tight under the car.

My point is that while there appear to be several good Tri-Y vendors, you might get a better fit by steering clear of the lower-priced versions.

[smallblock289]

Thanks for everybodys help on my question.

[The Going Thing]

No one bothered to address the issue with the common power steering ram drop-down bracket and it's tendency to rip the rivnuts out of the frame rail.

Be SURE to buy this for your installation.  I pulled them out of my 67 GT500 and had to have them welded back in.
Here is the link below for the heavy duty unit. It's available from West Coast Classic Cougar.There are some cheap 20-30.00 drop downs. Don't even consider them.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/e5h21.html

[Skidado]

I'm running tri-y headers on my '67 GT350 - also in the UK. I don't recall the manufacturer as I bought them about 33 years ago.  My car is a 4-speed with standard oil pan.

There are some slight interference issues around the bell housing, and the clutch Z-bar but theses are very minor. The steering idler arm also touches on full left-hand lock but again this is minor.

The biggest issue has been the power steering ram drop bracket. I found it difficult to get the bracket to sit properly on both the bottom and side surfaces of the chassis rail so that it could be tightened down. I had to pack it with washers. The second issue was that the extended length of the bracket increased the lever-arm that the ram acts on, to the extent that the bottom surface of the chassis rail flexed, splitting the pinch-weld along the side. I had this seam welded back together and it seems ok now.

David

[smallblock289]

One more question, anybody having any problems with the plug leads and melting with heat from the headers , I,d really like to keep the stock black of possible  , nothing looks worse than bright yellow or blue when you open the hood.
            many thanks

[The Going Thing]

Not I. I am running a 427 with Hooker Headers. I did get away from the Marti wires because the boots tend to tear.

[Shelby_r_b]

Not I. I am running a 427 with Hooker Headers. I did get away from the Marti wires because the boots tend to tear.

+1 on the Marti boots tearing. I switched to different plugs on my 67 as well.

[Skidado]

No issue with stock black plug leads and tri-y headers

David

[greekz]

No issue with stock black plug leads and tri-y headers

David

I have no issues with Marti plug wire boots splitting either.  I use them on both cars.

[The Going Thing]

I have have had two sets do it. They are not particularly suited for any performance ignition system as they also bleed.  You small block people forget that the FE head design also exposes the boots to much more heat than the small block.