Thermostatc vacuum switch

[shelbydoug]

The vacuum tower on top of the thermostat housing.

What is it supposed to do? How do I test it to see if it's working?

On a manual shift car, it's my understanding that 1) when cold it is completely closed 2) the engine vacuum goes to the bottom port 3) vacuum advance to the middle port 4) top port to timed vacuum on the carb?

Is it supposed to re-route vacuum depending on engine temp?

[Krelboyne]

I Believe that it blocks vacuum until operating temperature is reached.

[shelbydoug]

I presumed that but I have one on the bench and am trying to make it work there. So far, no good.

I've never seen engineering data specifically stating that it opens at a specific temperature.

Operating temperature could vary depending on thermostats.

[CharlesTurner]

Checked the Ford shop manual?

[J_Speegle]

In Ford training and in state/national emission training manuals didn't find anything that specified an exact temperature range. Can offer the following description as to how it works (in some applications the lower port is just a filter)




And Ford's testing process for service personal from the period



Hope this helps

[shelbydoug]

Checked the Ford shop manual?

What I see in the Shop manual is just the vacuum hose diagram. I see no reference to what temp it opens or begins to open at.

I am presuming that the Ford reference "to carburetor" means to the timed vacuum port and  not to manifold vacuum at the carburetor?

Perhaps termanology has changed since then but this is a little oonfusing.

Again, there is no mention of NORMAL operating temperatures? Considering the location being on the radiator side of the thermostat housing I think it will open as the thermostat opens but if it is set to work with a 192 thermostat, how will it work with a 160?

[J_Speegle]

I am presuming that the Ford reference "to carburetor" means to the timed vacuum port and  not to manifold vacuum at the carburetor?

The diagram Ford showed in the description identifies (both manifold and carburetor) the port connections based on the application they choose for this publication. Connections for other applications would differ.  The full engine vacuum diagrams would answer that question for your given application.

[shelbydoug]

I have them but they DON'T differentiate on "carburetor vacuum.

However, thank you for attempting to help here. I do appreciate it.

[Krelboyne]

The test is watching idle speed to increase and for the temperature light to get lit. 

[shelbydoug]

That would be one way but now have two of them and can't make either open using a heat gun on the workbench.

I'll eventually get to the bottom of this. I was just trying to take a faster route to the solution and answers.

I should also point out that the shop manual shows four different hose routings depending on on BB, SB, auto or manual trans. On the surface the differences make no sense since there is contradiction in function under different routing.

I don't doubt their acuracy. I doubt my ability to understand the application of English language terms.

I often cut the technicians some slack and leeway in their attempts to explain technical details. It often strikes me as Einstein trying to write Shakespear. Both geniuses of their own just needing another genius to interpret WTF they just said and that ain't me? 

[Bob Gaines]

That would be one way but now have two of them and can't make either open using a heat gun on the workbench.

I'll eventually get to the bottom of this. I was just trying to take a faster route to the solution and answers.

I should also point out that the shop manual shows four different hose routings depending on on BB, SB, auto or manual trans. On the surface the differences make no sense since there is contradiction in function under different routing.

I don't doubt their acuracy. I doubt my ability to understand the application of English language terms.

I often cut the technicians some slack and leeway in their attempts to explain technical details. It often strikes me as Einstein trying to write Shakespear. Both geniuses of their own just needing another genius to interpret WTF they just said and that ain't me? 

Have you tried suspending the vacuum switch in a pot of water on a stove top? Have your vacuum lines attached out of the water to check air flow from. The water temp can more easily be  monitored compared to a heat gun. Just a thought .

[Royce Peterson]

Yes this is the right way to test both the vacuum valves and thermostats. It also is a great way to test temp sender units.

Bear in mind Ford had to meet federal emission standards in '67 and '68 depending on where the car was going to be sold. So the installation hook up does vary by application. You may find that it performs better in one of the other methods of hookup now that the car doesn't need to meet any specific specs.

That would be one way but now have two of them and can't make either open using a heat gun on the workbench.

I'll eventually get to the bottom of this. I was just trying to take a faster route to the solution and answers.

I should also point out that the shop manual shows four different hose routings depending on on BB, SB, auto or manual trans. On the surface the differences make no sense since there is contradiction in function under different routing.

I don't doubt their acuracy. I doubt my ability to understand the application of English language terms.

I often cut the technicians some slack and leeway in their attempts to explain technical details. It often strikes me as Einstein trying to write Shakespear. Both geniuses of their own just needing another genius to interpret WTF they just said and that ain't me? 

Have you tried suspending the vacuum switch in a pot of water on a stove top? Have your vacuum lines attached out of the water to check air flow from. The water temp can more easily be  monitored compared to a heat gun. Just a thought .

[shelbydoug]

No boiling water yet!

If it works the way I think it is supposed to, I actually like the idea of it closing the vacuum to the vacuum advance at idle.

It gives me tuning options.

Also I THINK that it switches at some point from engine vacuum to timed port vacuum. That's really what the question initially was getting at.

Either way, I'm ok with it. I probably will need to do the hot water thing to determine at what temp it opens and if it is simgle stage or dual.

I like the idea that it is still installed in the original thermostat housing. It is appropriate for a '68.

Now if I can only find a yellow plastic overlay for the ignition coil, like the battery top idea, I'd be happier.

Unfortunately, although looking great, the Marti Autolite spark plug wires crapped out already. Too bad. They looked great in the AUTOLITE cap.

I haven't thought about the original spark plug wires in 45 years. I was innocent then. I never realized how FREAKIN' BAD the original wire engineering was back then? 

[J_Speegle]

.........Bear in mind Ford had to meet federal emission standards in '67 and '68 depending on where the car was going to be sold. So the installation hook up does vary by application. You may find that it performs better in one of the other methods of hookup now that the car doesn't need to meet any specific specs.

Keep in mind that this depends on your local/state agencies and their law. Here in Calif the requirements are still there

But that doesn't have any affect of figuring out Doug's challenge

[Royce Peterson]

Not just at idle. Any time the throttle is closed the vacuum signal to the distributor drops to a lower value, regardless of RPM. Decelleration for example. The only time the distributor vacuum advance would see manifold vacuum is during an overheat situation if it is all working properly.

No boiling water yet!

If it works the way I think it is supposed to, I actually like the idea of it closing the vacuum to the vacuum advance at idle.

It gives me tuning options.

Also I THINK that it switches at some point from engine vacuum to timed port vacuum. That's really what the question initially was getting at.

Either way, I'm ok with it. I probably will need to do the hot water thing to determine at what temp it opens and if it is simgle stage or dual.

I like the idea that it is still installed in the original thermostat housing. It is appropriate for a '68.

Now if I can only find a yellow plastic overlay for the ignition coil, like the battery top idea, I'd be happier.

Unfortunately, although looking great, the Marti Autolite spark plug wires crapped out already. Too bad. They looked great in the AUTOLITE cap.

I haven't thought about the original spark plug wires in 45 years. I was innocent then. I never realized how FREAKIN' BAD the original wire engineering was back then?