Newly purchased GT350 flawless 150 miles. Now sputters out every few miles.

[FL SAAC]

unsightly to some but highly effective

[2112]

Luckily I have Non-E gas station a mile from my home.  There are usually near any major marina or recreational dock facility for boaters.  This site might help:
https://www.pure-gas.org/

this website is a great source

The station closest to me charges $1 per gallon extra to have non-ethanol gas.

Yes, I pay it.

The whole ethanol fuel game is corrupt from the federal government down.

[Don Johnston]

Agreed.  I save my alcohol mixing for me when I am out of the car and not driving.  In the fuel in just messes up my classics and separates into a part water mix after a few weeks.  Stabilizer helps but for the extra cost, non-e at the pump is easier.

[zray]

Mark,
that's the spirit, I have a non factory big metal gas filter just before my carbs. Once a year no matter how many mikes, it gets replaced on all our cars. I know it's not correct but it traps the majority of STUFF before it becomes a problem. Try to find non ethanol fuel and if you can't purchase non ethanol fuel, purchase any brand ethanol stabilizer.
Again wishing you great success

Wow. That's a big help. Thank you for that. I'll be looking for off the gas or the stabilizer. And I might consider larger fuel filter.

Mark

The best fuel filter is the integrated one that comes on a '65 fuel pump. On non-concours cars I routinely put a '65 style pump on all '66's just for that fuel filter. It's much larger than the aftermarket ones, and does a superior job. The filter element is easily replaced without having to take off the pump.

regarding the ethanol vs. pure  gas discussion, I've worked on hundreds of vintage cars and vintage motorcycles since the introduction of the 10% ethanol, and have observed the following to be completely  accurate:

1)    when driven regularly, the use of the 10% blend has zero adverse effects. none. zip. nada. But if you let it sit in the fuel system for over 6 to 8 weeks, it begins to separate into the individual components. That is when it becomes an issue.  Since many people do not go thru a tankful of fuel in a 6 to 8 week time frame, they are seeing the usual typically described ethanol blend maladies of carb deposits, old compound rubber deteriorating, and poor performance.

2)  on the other hand, those engines that see  regular and frequent use, none of these adverse effects are ever present.  Many people use a vintage car or motorcycle as a daily driver, or at least a daily escape valve, and they are never having any issues with the 10% blended fuel.  These observations are based on what I have seen in the southwest USA.  If the ethanol blend is more than 10% elsewhere, then there may be a different outcome. But I suspect the outcome would still be one dependent on how often a tank of fuel is consumed.

3)  if your car is going to be stored for any length of time, there is no substitute for a complete draining of the fuel system.  It's not that difficult, and will save you a lot of grief when spring rolls around. Having a short checklist of things to do when mothballing a vehicle is part and parcel of vintage ownership.  A little preventative maintenance will extend the life of the car dramatically.

Using an additive to stabilize the fuel, like StaBil, etc. is better than doing nothing, but your car deserves a more comprehensive approach, imho.

Here are a couple of photos that can illustrate   better than a 1000 words what happens when ANY type of fuel is left too long in a carburetor.

In these photos the motorcycle, a Yamaha XS-1100,  had pure gasoline in it, and was parked for period of not less than 5 years but no more than 7 years while the owner was a guest of the Federal government. The carburetor assembly shown has been flipped, so the left carb in the photo is really the right side carb, etc.  The owner parked it in a shed, and leaned it over to the right side against a wall.  All the gas ran out of the higher left 2 carbs and they are as clean as a whistle.  On the other hand, the two lower carbs on the right side were full of gas until it evaporated, leaving behind the mess you see here. The deposits not only plugged up every orifice , but also corroded them to the point that the jets were useless even when cleaned up.

Granted, this is an extreme example. But goes to the point, that even pure gasoline has limits as to how long you can expect it to last, it's not just an ethanol issue. I've seen numerous carburetor issues that were related to old pure gas after just a few months.

[Tinface]

Tinface, please keep us posted when you have a resolution and you car is running correct.  Good luck

Fellow Members—I want to thank each one of you again, for reaching out to me during my crisis.

I don't have to explain why it sucks to purchase a car for a bunch of money then Discover it has intermittent problems mechanical. Especially so when you discover same while taking your best friend for that first ride together after years of telling and it dies on the side of the busy 6 lane freeway.

I ended up replacing
—-the coil,
— the fuel pump,
——checking
———the gas cap vent (fine)
———checked the gas lines front to back (no kinks)
———pressure checked the tank to see if the gas flowed through the line tank to carb,
———checked the gas to make sure it wasn't cloudy or had water in it (clear).
———cleaned the fuel filter (dirty viscous liquid blew out)
———checked the wires to the distributor (securely plugged in)
———checked the coil wire (THE COIL WIRE WAS NOT PLUGGED DOWN IN THE COIL AND WAS SHOWING SIGNS OF ARCING) plugged the coil wire securely into the coil.
————Checked the distributor pulled cap (Electronic ignition replacement for points).

The upshot:
We drove the car after all that and no more stalling out. Lots of other \little things wrong with it became apparent
—(Temp guage show almost at hot when the temp is 170,
—the oil guage doesn't work,
—the amp guage doesn't work,
—the emergency brake doesn't work Handel is broken off),
— radio doesn't work,
—no battery hold down,
—no spare wheel hold down,
—wrong gear ration (411) so speedo is wrong.

Conclusion— I have to continue to sort out—but over all—I am hopeful that it is a solid car a solid investment grade car. Only time will tell now. I'm counting on it.

Thank you all very much,

Tinface

[zray]

You are finding out firsthand that classic cars that don't get driven much are going to need a lot of sorting out to become reliable. The last "pretty" car I bought needed 2 years of constant sorting to become reliable.

Classic cars are not for the faint of heart, not for everybody, not for anyone who gets discouraged and  gives up. Not for whiners

Welcome to the few, the brave, and the crazy,

Z

PS have you cleaned out the fuel tank really good yet ?  If not, the filter will likely  get plugged up again.  Filters should be replaced, not just blown thru

[NC TRACKRAT]

"PS have you cleaned out the fuel tank really good yet ?  If not, the filter will likely  get plugged up again.  Filters should be replaced, not just blown thru".

What he said.  As soon as you start driving in a "spirited manner", sediment from the bottom of the tank will get suspended in the gas and will clog the filter again.  Best to drain or siphon off the gas in the tank and get the crud out.

[corbins]

"PS have you cleaned out the fuel tank really good yet ?  If not, the filter will likely  get plugged up again.  Filters should be replaced, not just blown thru".

What he said.  As soon as you start driving in a "spirited manner", sediment from the bottom of the tank will get suspended in the gas and will clog the filter again.  Best to drain or siphon off the gas in the tank and get the crud out.

+1- in fact , I would pull the tank, pressure wash it inside thoroughly and add a hidden , replaceable in-line filter ahead of the carb filter. And I always run some fuel system cleaner during the season. Glad you're getting it sorted out !

[zray]

"PS have you cleaned out the fuel tank really good yet ?  If not, the filter will likely  get plugged up again.  Filters should be replaced, not just blown thru".

What he said.  As soon as you start driving in a "spirited manner", sediment from the bottom of the tank will get suspended in the gas and will clog the filter again.  Best to drain or siphon off the gas in the tank and get the crud out.

+1- in fact , I would pull the tank, pressure wash it inside thoroughly and add a hidden , replaceable in-line filter ahead of the carb filter. And I always run some fuel system cleaner during the season. Glad you're getting it sorted out !

that's exactly what I was meaning, but neglected to provide the crucial details, thanks corbins !!! 

when you have the tank off, and the fuel sending unit OUT, check it for rust on the inside. If you find ANY, just get a new tank. The Canadian made tanks are inexpensive and well made. With just a little care , one of those will last you 25 years, at least.  Once a  fuel tank starts rusting inside, it never will stop. And the liner kits you can buy to coat the inside of a tank are no picnic either. Eventually they WILL de-laminate and then you will REALLY have some fuel delivery issues to contend with.  I've seen numerous motorcycles and vintage cars with issues from coated tanks. Despite what the manufacturers of those products promise, they are a time bomb waiting to ruin your day, and your fuel system.

Z

[2112]

Who is the source for Canadian tanks?

I assumed they are all galvanized now. No?

I thought someone sold perfect replicas too.

[Ldouble619]

Spectra premium tanks are the made in Canada.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/1969-Mustang-Cougar-Fuel-Gas-Tank-Spectra-Premium-F28C-Canadian-Made-New-/330808209519

[2112]

Spectra premium tanks are the made in Canada.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/1969-Mustang-Cougar-Fuel-Gas-Tank-Spectra-Premium-F28C-Canadian-Made-New-/330808209519

Are those bare mild steel?

[Bob Gaines]

Spectra premium tanks are the made in Canada.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/1969-Mustang-Cougar-Fuel-Gas-Tank-Spectra-Premium-F28C-Canadian-Made-New-/330808209519

Are those bare mild steel?

The tanks were galvanized originally . So are the reproduction tanks . I have never seen or heard of a reproduction gas tank that is made in bare untreated steel. It would flash rust if it was.

[zray]

Who is the source for Canadian tanks?

I assumed they are all galvanized now. No?

I thought someone sold perfect replicas too.

NPD has a wide selection. 

Z

[zray]

Spectra premium tanks are the made in Canada.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/1969-Mustang-Cougar-Fuel-Gas-Tank-Spectra-Premium-F28C-Canadian-Made-New-/330808209519

Are those bare mild steel?

The tanks were galvanized originally . So are the reproduction tanks . I have never seen or heard of a reproduction gas tank that is made in bare untreated steel. It would flash rust if it was.

NPD is selling tanks that aren't galvanized, but they're not bare steel either. They have tanks (not this one) they are calling concours, don't know what that means to them.

https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/tank_assy_fuel_repro-106633-1.html

"......Mustang TANK ASSY, FUEL, REPRO, 16 GALLON, W/O DRAIN PLUG, INCL LOCK RING AND SEAL, Made in Canada from rust resistant Ni-terne coated steel, Spectra Premium Industries fuel tanks are made in Canada from U.S. Steels Ni-Terne material, The annealed cold-rolled steel sheet is first processed to apply a thin flash coating of electrodeposited nickel and then its given a hot-dip tin alloy coating, The nickel base coat gives Ni-Terne steel an extra measure of corrosion resistance compared to U.S. Steels regular Terne steel sheet and also compared to traditional galvanizing, which isn't readily available anymore, The Ni-Terne coating protects both interior and exterior surfaces of the fuel tank from surface corrosion, These tanks are precision engineered and tooled to OE specs and all models are validated for fit, form and function before they are released into the market, Manufactured under ISO 9001/ TS 16949 quality system, 100% tested, Transit tested packaging to protect the part and the finish so you receive a great looking part! Three year manufacturer warranty, For use with gasoline containing up to 20% Ethanol (E20), C5ZZ-9002-A, C5ZZ-9002-B, C5ZZ-9002-C, C5ZZ-9002-D....."


Z