resistance wire install

[68blk500c]

Doug:  If this is what you are needing, shot of '68 GT500 (PI).  90 degree male is white for this application.  Others are different.  Sorry about the focus.

[shelbydoug]

Doug:  If this is what you are needing, shot of '68 GT500 (PI).  90 degree male is white for this application.  Others are different.  Sorry about the focus.

Is the white elbow on a pigtail or is it part of the resistance wire?

[Bob Gaines]

Doug:  If this is what you are needing, shot of '68 GT500 (PI).  90 degree male is white for this application.  Others are different.  Sorry about the focus.

Is the white elbow on a pigtail or is it part of the resistance wire?

The white elbow is the primary wire from the distributor on a 68 up FE.

[shelbydoug]

Doug:  If this is what you are needing, shot of '68 GT500 (PI).  90 degree male is white for this application.  Others are different.  Sorry about the focus.

Is the white elbow on a pigtail or is it part of the resistance wire?

The white elbow is the primary wire from the distributor on a 68 up FE.

Thanks for clarifying that Bob. Some accurate original pics of the coil connections would help much more though? Got any you can post? Please?

[shelbydoug]

Doug:  If this is what you are needing, shot of '68 GT500 (PI).  90 degree male is white for this application.  Others are different.  Sorry about the focus.

It actually does. It shows a factory molded on elbow on the pink resistance wire. Thank you. It does answer my question. 

On your harness, is there ANY heat shielding sleeve on that wire AT ALL? It doesn't appear to be?

[Royce Peterson]

Just realized the '68 drawing from the factory vacuum / electrical manual is in error. Here's the '67 drawing which is correct. The resistance wire comes from the tach and connects to 16B just inside the firewall on the passenger side.

The resistance wire connects to the wire going through the firewall to the neutral lockout / reverse lamp switch. Or if you have a four speed, it has a loop on the plug for the reverse lamp harness so that the starter engages any time the key is turned. As the drawing shows.  Eventually this circuit leads to the coil through several other harnesses.

It's wire # 16A.

Doug:  If this is what you are needing, shot of '68 GT500 (PI).  90 degree male is white for this application.  Others are different.  Sorry about the focus.

It actually does. It shows a factory molded on elbow on the pink resistance wire. Thank you. It does answer my question. 

On your harness, is there ANY heat shielding sleeve on that wire AT ALL? It doesn't appear to be?

[Royce Peterson]

Deleted not needed image

Here are the color codes.

[68blk500c]

No, Doug, there isn't any; just normal wire loop wrap tape.

[shelbydoug]

No, Doug, there isn't any; just normal wire loop wrap tape.

[Rukiddin]

Not to confuse the issue,but trying to help..... Ford used that COLF # to service many years/applications and the service part from most any supplier will have the bullet connector at each end. The resistor wire is marked" do not cut or splice" along the pink wire. When servicing the resistor wire ( not real common) the splice must be made before/after the resistor wire. Just add a female connector to the loom so that the resistor wire is not spliced,but plugged into the circuit. The resistor wire is NOT meant to be modified. It is only designed to replace the original wire,and equal same resistance. Just do what is required to plug in the replacement wire. Make your cut/splice as needed in the non-resistor wiring....... Ford's 65/up ignition has been a very reliable system. Most issues arise from lack of understanding the design. I still use stock Ford ignition coil/points,cap,etc on my drag car just to confuse the kids that don't know what non-electronic ignition is 

[Coralsnake]

I was following you however, I was distracted when I got to "but plugged"

Good post !

[Royce Peterson]

The new resistance wire in the repair kit has a plug on each end. You have to add a single connector just to the rear of the firewall so that it may plug in at both ends. Not hard to do if the dash is removed. Very hard to do laying on your back looking up under the instrument panel.

I was following you however, I was distracted when I got to "but plugged"

Good post !

[shelbydoug]

Not to confuse the issue,but trying to help..... Ford used that COLF # to service many years/applications and the service part from most any supplier will have the bullet connector at each end. The resistor wire is marked" do not cut or splice" along the pink wire. When servicing the resistor wire ( not real common) the splice must be made before/after the resistor wire. Just add a female connector to the loom so that the resistor wire is not spliced,but plugged into the circuit. The resistor wire is NOT meant to be modified. It is only designed to replace the original wire,and equal same resistance. Just do what is required to plug in the replacement wire. Make your cut/splice as needed in the non-resistor wiring....... Ford's 65/up ignition has been a very reliable system. Most issues arise from lack of understanding the design. I still use stock Ford ignition coil/points,cap,etc on my drag car just to confuse the kids that don't know what non-electronic ignition is 

There were no instructions included with it. Neither did I find ANY reference to it anywhere and close to little response to my inquiry here.

The service part obviously varies from an original equipment part so that likely is the answer to little or no response here? Cranky as they are, most here genuinely like to help.

My original resistance wire is long gone so there was/is nothing there to compare to. In addition, the differences between the service part and the original installs are significant enough to produce doubt or confuion on the subject.

In my case I am not running the yellow top coil. I have an up and running engine and I'm just trying to get the tach to operate accurately by simulating the original design parameters.


I actually do have an electrical consultant more familiar with the Pantera system that thought the Ford tach should be installed on the negative terminal of the coil? The only issue there was that if you do that then there is no power to the Petronix from the coil since the Ford tach is literally spliced into the power to the coil from the 12v ignition switch. Just a little bit of an oops by the expert who now is pissed at me and told me not to bother him anymore.

So you see, it isn't just here that everyone seems pissy. It's everywhere, even with your own "friends"?

Buddy Hacket had an interesting bit about "friends". It's a little dated now but still a funny one.


I'll find out soon if the re-wiring with the resistance wiring is going to work.

Incidentally Royce and others. YOU try to find those bullet connectors that Ford used. I can't. Nothing here is that size. I came to the conclusion that they are as popular as a Druid convention in the Vatican? 

[Royce Peterson]

Obviously he hasn't seen the circuit or he would know that is not true.

Here's how to install the Pertronix with a factory tach in any 1967 - 68 Mustang Shelby or Cougar. The coil must be the same resistance as a stock yellow top coil or the tach will not be accurate.

Note 1 - to the "S" terminal of the solenoid through the neutral safety circuit and / or tilt - away circuits.
Note 2 - From the "I" terminal of the solenoid.

There are a thousand ways to achieve this without cutting any wires. If you know anyone who can read a schematic this should be extremely simple to understand and accomplish.

Quote - "I actually do have an electrical consultant more familiar with the Pantera system that thought the Ford tach should be installed on the negative terminal of the coil? The only issue there was that if you do that then there is no power to the Petronix from the coil since the Ford tach is literally spliced into the power to the coil from the 12v ignition switch. Just a little bit of an oops by the expert who now is pissed at me and told me not to bother him anymore." - End Quote

[shelbydoug]

 
Correct and obviously it wasn't even a caution flag, it was a red flag or if he was on the track a black flag. Even I knew there was no power going to the coil.

The thought occurred to me, "better find another expert".