69 GT350 console gauge under hood wiring harness diagram

[SChatman]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 69 GT350 console gauge under hood wiring harness? I've got all the diagrams I can find from the assembly Manuel to the Shelby special Parts Pamphlet but nothing I have tells me what goes where From the firewall to the junction box and solenoid.
Thanks

[Cobrask8]

It is in the special 1969 Shelby Repair manual that's part of the blue manual set.

I used to have a copy, I can check.

[Bob Gaines]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 69 GT350 console gauge under hood wiring harness? I've got all the diagrams I can find from the assembly Manuel to the Shelby special Parts Pamphlet but nothing I have tells me what goes where From the firewall to the junction box and solenoid.
Thanks

The separate fog light harness is the one you are talking about. The longest black 10 gauge wire with stepped terminal end goes on the positive side terminal of the starter solenoid . The shorter black/yellow 10 gauge wire goes to the junction block. The 10 gauge black and yellow power wire from the alternator also goes to the junction block. The 22 gauge black wire coming out of the fog light harness is a ground that goes to the regulator /condenser screw.  With this wiring configuration all of the power from the alternator runs through the amp gauge and back to the the battery and rest of the electrical system. I hope this helps.

[SChatman]

Thanks Guys, I have a reprint of the Blue set that has volumes 1-5 but I don't find a Shelby section. 
Bob, I've been told by a couple of people that I should bypass the Amp gauge because it's a fire hazard, what's your opinion?

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Guys, I have a reprint of the Blue set that has volumes 1-5 but I don't find a Shelby section. 
Bob, I've been told by a couple of people that I should bypass the Amp gauge because it's a fire hazard, what's your opinion?

There is a possibility for just about everything.If done like the factory it shouldn't be a problem . I can see that if someone was careless on how they assembled the amp gauge and didn't follow the proper insulating procedures while assembling the gauge terminal wiring that it could be a problem.  A amp gauge wiring caused fire hasn't been a significant issue for 69/70 Shelby's in my numerous decades of being around them and networking with owners.  There would be a Ford TSB or significant chatter from other 69/70 Shelby owners that have experienced it.  I don't have them disconnected in any of my cars. I think a more significant wiring issue that is 10 times more of a problem is the two large plugs under the console for the fog lights. The plugs if not thoroughly pushed together cause resistance which manifests itself as heat which melts the plugs and has cause electrical fires. I have known people who have eliminated the plugs by wiring to the harness directly and eliminating the plugs so as to take the possibility of the problem from happening.For those not wanting to go to that extreme I always advise to coat the male and female plug sections with Dielectric grease before squeezing together with channel locks for a confirmed tight fit .

[SChatman]

Thanks Bob, I didn't think that would be an issue but I wanted to make sure, I couldn't imagine that Ford would put out something like that..do you have any recommendations on someone to check out the gauges or is there an easy do it yourself test that a non electrical minded person can do? The old wiring on my console had been fried so I've got new wiring for all of it. Don't know why it was fried though.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob, I didn't think that would be an issue but I wanted to make sure, I couldn't imagine that Ford would put out something like that..do you have any recommendations on someone to check out the gauges or is there an easy do it yourself test that a non electrical minded person can do? The old wiring on my console had been fried so I've got new wiring for all of it. Don't know why it was fried though.

You can test them easy enough in the wiring harness before you attach the gauges to the console.  Be very careful to disconnect the battery whenever working on the wiring . Once connections have been made you can connect the battery for testing. you don't need the key on when testing the amp gauge. When testing the amp gauge turn on the headlights and the gauge should move in the negative. If it moves to positive you just need to reverse the wires on the back of the gauge. Be very careful and mindful of how the plastic insulators go on the terminal posts. That is what the factory used to keep you from having catastrophic failure.  For the oil pressure gauge ground the wire to the oil pressure sender . Turn the key on . It should go full tilt to the high pressure side . If it goes the other way reverse the wires. Don't leave the key on for long. 

[SChatman]

Thanks Bob

[SChatman]

Bob, I'm not finding a black and yellow wire coming off the alternator harness, I have a black or It maybe A dark gray 10 gauge wire coming out of the alternator harness that I figured went to the positive side of the solenoid.
The only black and yellow is coming from the fog lite harness.

[Bob Gaines]

Bob, I'm not finding a black and yellow wire coming off the alternator harness, I have a black or It maybe A dark gray 10 gauge wire coming out of the alternator harness that I figured went to the positive side of the solenoid.
The only black and yellow is coming from the fog lite harness.

That should it. There is only one 10 gauge wire from the alt .It is thicker gauge because it carries the power from the alt.

[Cobrask8]

Just as an alternate suggestion for the Alt gauge fire hazzard, why not indeed by-pass as Bob noted, and replace the gauge with a voltage gauge in matching style? The feed is simple, and lets you know how the battery & voltage are?

[SChatman]

So Bob I want make sure I understand, that black 10 gauge wire coming from the alternator shouldn't go to the positive side of the solenoid like the standard hookup but to the junction block,correct?   Cobrask8 Do you know of a Voltage gauge that matches the original?
Thanks guys.

[Bob Gaines]

So Bob I want make sure I understand, that black 10 gauge wire coming from the alternator shouldn't go to the positive side of the solenoid like the standard hookup but to the junction block,correct?   Cobrask8 Do you know of a Voltage gauge that matches the original?
Thanks guys.

It goes to the junction block on a Shelby it goes to the pos post on the solenoid on a regular Mustang. By going to the junction block it goes to the amp gauge by way of the 10 gauge wire in the foglight harness. The other longer 10 gauge wire  in the foglight harness goes to the positive side of the solenoid. All of the power of the car passes through the amp gauge so that it can function and show charging or discharging. I will answer for Cobrask8 in case he is not aware that there is not a volt gauge that matches the factory gauges in details. I have not seen any other variety of gauges that match the factory gauges which leads me to believe that their design was purpose built for the Shelby application.   

[SChatman]

Thanks Bob.