Headers!!!!!!

[tonys_shelby]

I'm not one to post just for conversation but it maybe will save someone my mistake. I'm finishing up my restoration and trying my best to stay faithful in originality within reason and budget (other than color change lime gold to nighmist, it's been fun to read the posts) the only thing I wanted to change was exhaust system with headers so it could breath better and sound better.  I knew it was going to be a struggle but come on!  I did all the stuff, valve cover off, engine up, driver's side, on and on. Of course trying my best not to nick or scratch the newly painted everything. I went with the JBA try y's thinking they would fit the best after looking at all the header reviews. I had to dent( sorry clearance) the passengers side because the hit the shock tower, clearance ( let's be honest dent ) around steering gear,  and driver's side shock tower,  there wasn't room to get the collector bolt in on the passenger side floor pan. If you're thinking about doing headers I wouldn't!   

[jguyer]

Does this mean you're driving around with only two bolts on the starboard collector?

[shelbydoug]

The headers that will fit a 67 GT500 are Hooker 6113. The small block, JBA 6610. Anything else is a crap shoot.

This subject has been discussed here many times. You need to know who to listen too, 

[67411F--0100-ENG.]

I'm not one to post just for conversation but it maybe will save someone my mistake. I'm finishing up my restoration and trying my best to stay faithful in originality within reason and budget (other than color change lime gold to nightmist, it's been fun to read the posts) the only thing I wanted to change was exhaust system with headers so it could breath better and sound better.  I knew it was going to be a struggle but come on!  I did all the stuff, valve cover off, engine up, driver's side, on and on. Of course trying my best not to nick or scratch the newly painted everything. I went with the JBA try y's thinking they would fit the best after looking at all the header reviews. I had to dent( sorry clearance) the passengers side because the hit the shock tower, clearance ( let's be honest dent ) around steering gear,  and driver's side shock tower,  there wasn't room to get the collector bolt in on the passenger side floor pan. If you're thinking about doing headers I wouldn't!

Hello Tony,

Sorry to hear that you have such bad luck with your JBA Tri-Ys.  We installed them on 0100 two years ago and everything fit great.  We did not have do any clearancing at all and we were able to get all of the bolts installed without too much difficulty.

Good luck,
Eric

[Bob Gaines]

I'm not one to post just for conversation but it maybe will save someone my mistake. I'm finishing up my restoration and trying my best to stay faithful in originality within reason and budget (other than color change lime gold to nighmist, it's been fun to read the posts) the only thing I wanted to change was exhaust system with headers so it could breath better and sound better.  I knew it was going to be a struggle but come on!  I did all the stuff, valve cover off, engine up, driver's side, on and on. Of course trying my best not to nick or scratch the newly painted everything. I went with the JBA try y's thinking they would fit the best after looking at all the header reviews. I had to dent( sorry clearance) the passengers side because the hit the shock tower, clearance ( let's be honest dent ) around steering gear,  and driver's side shock tower,  there wasn't room to get the collector bolt in on the passenger side floor pan. If you're thinking about doing headers I wouldn't!

http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=11584.0  I posted this with you in mind .Maybe it is relevant to your situation and maybe not. How does your export brace fit? does it just drop on are do you have to pry it in place to fit? If it is relevant then it doesn't matter now because yours are in but maybe someone else will benefit .

[Fastback66]

I'm not one to post just for conversation but it maybe will save someone my mistake. I'm finishing up my restoration and trying my best to stay faithful in originality within reason and budget (other than color change lime gold to nighmist, it's been fun to read the posts) the only thing I wanted to change was exhaust system with headers so it could breath better and sound better.  I knew it was going to be a struggle but come on!  I did all the stuff, valve cover off, engine up, driver's side, on and on. Of course trying my best not to nick or scratch the newly painted everything. I went with the JBA try y's thinking they would fit the best after looking at all the header reviews. I had to dent( sorry clearance) the passengers side because the hit the shock tower, clearance ( let's be honest dent ) around steering gear,  and driver's side shock tower,  there wasn't room to get the collector bolt in on the passenger side floor pan. If you're thinking about doing headers I wouldn't!

Interesting you posted this as I was considering Tri-Y's as well. I posted a question over on the Shelby Group and Vintage Mustang group  on FB asking what kind of issues people had installing them on their 67 with power steering, manual car. I received  quite a bit of feedback and comments, it appears most were successful with Patriot Tri-Y's and a drop down bracket for the power steering, some had minor issues with a z-bar clearance. No one mentioned the issues you posted above.    A friend of mine installed the set up on his 68 without major issue as well. Maybe your issue is with the JBA Tri-Y's.

Just curious, what was your plan for mufflers and pipe size? 

[tonys_shelby]

Bob, I haven't reinstalled the export brace yet after having it sent off for paint but I had it in when I sent it off and I know they test fit it at least once when it was in there.  I hope it still fits in nicely but maybe that's a little bit a the issue. The lower brace was /is in the car to keep things together.  Collector bolt question No it's in there I had to winch the header down enough to get a nut behind the flange with a bolt just short enough to thread in.

[Bob Gaines]

Bob, I haven't reinstalled the export brace yet after having it sent off for paint but I had it in when I sent it off and I know they test fit it at least once when it was in there.  I hope it still fits in nicely but maybe that's a little bit a the issue. The lower brace was /is in the car to keep things together.  Collector bolt question No it's in there I had to winch the header down enough to get a nut behind the flange with a bolt just short enough to thread in.

It should practically drop on . The degree that it doesn't drop on translates into clearance variations down below.

[tonys_shelby]

Thanks Bob. I'm going to check it today. God I hope it does because it will change all the front sheet metal alignment if wrong. I asked 2 times for the shop to make sure it was Ok.  I know it's a real issue. I've had more early mustangs than I should count and they ALL had shock tower collapse. I'll keep up dated.

[roddster]

  Thats OK.  Wait until you try and fit the tailpipes over the rear axle, past the gas tank, and try to not have it rattle or be too close to anything like the axle vent line and the rear brake hose.  That too is a pistol.

[tonys_shelby]

So test fit export brace, a little off maybe overall 3/16" so got out the portable hydraulic spreader, removed carb,  supported car from lower brace and had to spread it almost 3/4" to get it to stay at the correct mark. It wasn't enough to change anything down at the midpoint of the shock tower but I figure every little bit helps.

Yes the transverse exhaust should be fun but at least  factory.

[shelbydoug]

So test fit export brace, a little off maybe overall 3/16" so got out the portable hydraulic spreader, removed carb,  supported car from lower brace and had to spread it almost 3/4" to get it to stay at the correct mark. It wasn't enough to change anything down at the midpoint of the shock tower but I figure every little bit helps.

Yes the transverse exhaust should be fun but at least  factory.

At the header level you will only gain half that in total. So half of that per side, so you see it really isn't the shock towers that are the header clearance issue. It's the headers themselves.

3/64" isn't going to help you out much with the clearance. Good fitting headers will.

[2112]

3/64" isn't going to help you out much with the clearance. Good fitting headers will.

3/64" may not, but 3/4" should.

[tonys_shelby]

I wish hooker would do a 3/8 flange and socket collector. I've always had great luck with fit but they end up leaking. I end up cutting off the collector and installing sockets. I had heard the try y's from JBA we're good but they must have talking about a small block.

[shelbydoug]

3/64" isn't going to help you out much with the clearance. Good fitting headers will.

3/64" may not, but 3/4" should.

And how do you propose to get 3/4" additional clearance on each header? That means you need 1-1/2" at header level and would need to push out the top of the shock tower 3 inches total. 1-1/2" each side.

I have never seen that done.

The simplest solution is to get a set that fit "well enough". With FE Mustangs, that can be complicated.

The Hookers do fit and are not problem free but are the least problematic I think?


The biggest thing I don't like on the Hookers is that they angle the collector down. So the entire collector isn't low. The end is near the flange.

IF you compare the collector height to the original H pipe, right at that spot they are almost the same. The H pipe begins to curve up at that point.


As low as the Hookers seem, you will rarely see scrape marks on them from bottoming out?

I'd prefer a larger primary tube with them also.They are 1-3/4 but seem smaller. 2" would be about right.


Actually, the best fit I've ever seen is a now defunct one called "Pro Stock". It was an in house brand for Gratiot Auto Supply in Detroit.