Headers!!!!!!

[Bob Gaines]

I would never suggest and also think it is a very bad idea to push the shock towers past what they were intended to be from Ford.

[SFM5S000]

Did anyone say front end alignment yet after the "push"? Or is that a given. Just check'in.

Cheers
~ Earl J

[Bob Gaines]

Did anyone say front end alignment yet after the "push"? Or is that a given. Just check'in.

Cheers
~ Earl J

Theoretically if the one piece export brace was on before the push then the dimensions should be the same when the shock towers are pushed out so that the export brace drops on without a fight. The brace in place confirms everything should be the same . It is just that now the export brace is not holding the shock towers apart under tension. I know it doesn't take much to change settings so It doesn't hurt to recheck and verify alignment settings.

[2112]

And how do you propose to get 3/4" additional clearance on each header? That means you need 1-1/2" at header level and would need to push out the top of the shock tower 3 inches total. 1-1/2" each side.

I have never seen that done.

I misread your post. I meant 3/4" between shock towers, which is 3/8" per side.

[shelbydoug]

And how do you propose to get 3/4" additional clearance on each header? That means you need 1-1/2" at header level and would need to push out the top of the shock tower 3 inches total. 1-1/2" each side.

I have never seen that done.

I misread your post. I meant 3/4" between shock towers, which is 3/8" per side.

That dimension is only at the top of the towers where you move them.

The bottom of the triangle is a fixed point. You are not pushing the rails out, only pivoting the shock towers at the top. So with the geometry involved, you are only getting about one half at the header level as you are at the top of the towers.

By moving them you are also changing the location of where the upper control arms mount and changing the suspension geometry.


Ford had a similar idea when they did the Boss 429 shock tower modification.There they shortened the upper arm and the upper arm on  the Boss 9 is unique.

Do you really want to do this to fit headers?


As I pointed out, to me, this IS "setting a cannon to kill a mosquito".

Occum's Razor: get headers that fit right off and simplify the solution?

[oldcanuck]

Occum's Razor: Get headers that fit right off and simplify the solution ?

+1   

[68krrrr]

This guy fit the Hooker Super comps on ,not that I plan on going that route but does it really make a huge difference in sound & performance versus just putting a nice full exhaust system on?
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/shelby/gt500/2424922.html

[427heaven]

 Exhaust systems are engineered to fit an existing engine, car set up. A few key elements are engine size, horsepower, rpm, top end or low down torque, standard crappy bends or mandrel bends. Some restriction is needed for proper running engine in a certain parameter. One size does not fit all! Most all of your sound your looking for is within the crossover pipe... x pipe or h pipe and how many chambers your mufflers have. Good Luck!

[shelbydoug]

This guy fit the Hooker Super comps on ,not that I plan on going that route but does it really make a huge difference in sound & performance versus just putting a nice full exhaust system on?
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/shelby/gt500/2424922.html

Full length headers do make a difference particularly on an FE over iron or shorty headers.

As stated, you will find or experience an rpm peak with them. That is what they are tuned to.

Hookers with a 1-3/4" primary tube are going to peak in the 5,500 to 6,000 rpm range. A bigger tube like 2", higher.

Tuning the exhaust sound is going to be to your taste. I would recommend 2-1/2" pipes, balance tube, and two chamber Flowmaster "Turbo" mufflers.

You can pick up some top rpm horsepower with 3" pipes but you are going to pay the price sound wise.

You can also go to a three chamber Flowmaster which at one time were refered to as "Hemi" mufflers. They are quieter for sure but also more restrictive.

The 2 chamber mufflers will fit in the rear seat dimple in the floor pans but the three chamber won't.

The picture you posted is pretty much a maxed out street muffler system. You definitely will hear the headers on it. Iron manifolds will make the engine sound calmer but loose around 100 hp over headers.

Of course you also need a cam that will take advantage of the headers by using increased overlap which aids in the exhaust scavaging the long tube headers do. That's around 63 degrees of overlap and up. Under that, don't even bother with headers. They won't be doing anything except making noise.

[Kent]

Didn´t there were some handbuilt FE headers for a mustang from 2 companys? I forgot the name one was stainless and appx 1500$ and the other one from frpp or something like this.

[shelbydoug]

Didn´t there were some handbuilt FE headers for a mustang from 2 companys? I forgot the name one was stainless and appx 1500$ and the other one from frpp or something like this.

Bob Gaines had a spectacular set on his GT500. Actually the term "hand made" is kind of a misnomer.
They are all hand made. That can be part of the issue with "production made" headers.

Some points are so critical that if they are off the mark by 1/8", they won't fit and maybe won't even go in?


According to the folks at Cobra Automotive, a set made for you on the car STARTS at $3500.

[SFM5S000]

Has anyone bought and installed a set of JBA 6610S into an early 65/66? I'm shopping for headers these days looking to replace a set of "nut dragging (hang too low)" Hooker Super Comps. I don't care for Shelby tri-y's (Too restrictive) but being too cheap for Cobra Auto's custom tri-y'. Doug's tri-y's are ugly to me. So... looking to hear feedback if anyone has gone the JBA route.
Thanks,
~Earl J

[shelbydoug]

Has anyone bought and installed a set of JBA 6610S into an early 65/66? I'm shopping for headers these days looking to replace a set of "nut dragging (hang too low)" Hooker Super Comps. I don't care for Shelby tri-y's (Too restrictive) but being too cheap for Cobra Auto's custom tri-y'. Doug's tri-y's are ugly to me. So... looking to hear feedback if anyone has gone the JBA route.
Thanks,
~Earl J

On my '68. Not what you asked but they told me they were made to fit, 65 through 70 Mustang small blocks.

I can also tell you that they revised the left side to clear the Pitman arm on #5.

I don't know what the difference is with the "quick steering kit" on an early car.

Randy has already commented that even the original tri-y's hit there and speculated it was because the original pattern was made on the regular steering idler and Pitman?

[2112]

This guy fit the Hooker Super comps on ,not that I plan on going that route but does it really make a huge difference in sound & performance versus just putting a nice full exhaust system on?
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/shelby/gt500/2424922.html

That is a nice car (early too) but man, it is suspended like a 4 x 4. I wonder if that is to keep the headers off the blacktop.

Dragging headers is a deal-breaker for me. Stan's don't drag, but they can get in the way of clutch linkage.   

[Side-Oilers]

I realize that Stan isn't always the easiest guy to talk with.       But the headers I bought from him for my KR fit easily, have great ground clearance (the bellhousing is lower to the ground than the collectors) and I haven't had any loose header bolts.

BTW: My car does not have P/S, P/B or A/C.    It does have a hydraulic clutch.