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Single Car trailer recommendations for towing a 1966 GT350?

Started by Tinface, March 19, 2018, 09:08:58 AM

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Bigfoot

20 foot is fine but I'd go with 24 foot if possible because it's nice to have extra space for xtra stuff you might want like tires etc.
F250 recommended but I have plenty of friends pulling with the ecoboost in a new F150 and they have no issues.
RIP KIWI
RIP KIWI

Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas

Picked a used trailer from a guy getting divorce, a used 1999 F350 dually with 12,000 miles on it, and almost matching cap. Since I don't have a garage this is where the car lives when I'm not driving it
Owned since 1971, NOW DRIVEN OVER 250,000 MILES, makes me smile every time I drive it and it makes me feel 21 again.😎

roddster

  Ditto on an F-150 with Ecoboost.  Pulls fine, has big enough brakes.  You can check the build list to see the trailer towing capacity before you buy.

69mach351w

Quote from: tesgt350 on March 19, 2018, 09:53:56 AM
I recently Bought this in August of 2017.  It was built just 2 weeks before I bought it.  It is an 8.5x24 with dual 3500 LB Axles with Brakes on Both.  I paid just $3,995.00 for it.  For a little bit more I could have gotten the 5500 LB Axles and the extra Side Door.
This hauler looks identical to mine in description. tesgt350, is it a Freedom?  But, I did get the 5500lb axles. I paid $4500 for mine, out the door.

You can get a glimpse of my hauler in the background and I pull my 69 mach with an F250 turbo diesel.

KR Convertible

I bought a 24' Atlas.  Starting price was around $5500.  I added screw less exterior with .040" thick skin, 5500 lb drop axles, escape door, rubber flooring, finished interior walls, winch and battery.  Ended up around $13,000.  Extras seem to add up quick!  My only complaint is the flimsy angle aluminum trim on the ramp tore off when tire spun while loading.  It's on my list of things to do.  Pull it with an F450.

69mach351w

Quote from: Bigfoot on March 19, 2018, 01:17:22 PM
20 foot is fine but I'd go with 24 foot if possible because it's nice to have extra space for xtra stuff you might want like tires etc.
F250 recommended but I have plenty of friends pulling with the ecoboost in a new F150 and they have no issues.
They're pulling a 24' with an ecoboost F150? 

Blackcar


69mach351w

Quote from: preaction on March 19, 2018, 08:58:38 PM
A 2018 F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost can tow 13,000 lbs.
My F250 2001 diesel weighs 8500#, and I have weighed my truck with my 24' attached and my 69 mach 1 inside with a total weight of 17,500#. 

So take the former from the latter and my trailer(not aluminum) and my mach weighs 9000#. So you're telling me that an ecoboost F150 can pull 4000# more?  That's like another 69 mach 1+.

That is hard for me to believe, JMO.

427heaven

So there has been some good help here to get you thinking, but we have not addressed the tow vehicle situation. Rule of thumb here is BIGGER is BETTER. Will a f150 tow an enclosed 24 foot hauler with car yes it will. I did it for years but with a load leveler hitch,tranny cooler, and air shocks. This was necessary for my combination to work well. So if you have 5000 or 50,000 to spend on a hauler get something you will enjoy on your way to your event. I have an Ecoboost set up that pulls 10,000 lbs like its not even there. So remember what our fathers towed with,most had station wagons and half ton trucks this was good enough for 99 percent of the population but they didn't have enclosed trailers back then. Good luck on your search.

Bigfoot

Quote from: 69mach351w on March 19, 2018, 07:42:11 PM
Quote from: Bigfoot on March 19, 2018, 01:17:22 PM
20 foot is fine but I'd go with 24 foot if possible because it's nice to have extra space for xtra stuff you might want like tires etc.
F250 recommended but I have plenty of friends pulling with the ecoboost in a new F150 and they have no issues.
They're pulling a 24' with an ecoboost F150?

And I don't think the trailer is aluminum .
He is very well versed in this.
RIP KIWI
RIP KIWI

2112

I thought towing capacity was measured independent of truck weight and payload and gross vehicle weight were inclusive of truck weight?

68blk500c


kjspeed

I had a 2000 F250 with the 5.4 gas engine and it strained to pull any heavy load. Pulled open car haulers, enclosed trailers and a gooseneck with my JD farm tractor. It was grossly underpowered IMHO. Then I traded up to a 1995 F250 with the 7.3 Powerstroke. Night and day difference. Pulls my 24' enclosed trailer with the Shelby or my gooseneck and tractor without breaking a sweat. The tow vehicle is the key - most any trailer will work.
1968 Shelby GT350
1968 Mustang GT S-code
2009 Mustang Bullitt

Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas

Most trailers 20 feet of more can be sufficient for hauling the car. The bigger you get the more space you have. Cabinets, floor covering,escape doors, generators, etc. all add up and can push the price up quickly. What also needs to be addressed is how comfortable are you driving and more importantly parking the setup. I'm fair at best and I usually research where I'm going for spaces big enough for me to park. I google earth the hotel, look at restaurants, and even gas stations to make sure I can get in and more importantly out of the space. The turning radius on some truck/trailer combos are quite daunting and the height is another restriction
The more you drive it the better you become. If you do get a set up practice driving around in a large parking lot with cones and marked off spaces to become proficient with the setup. I know people who tow with the F150 ecoboost and have no problems, Ford offers a ton of options for towing on the F150,camera setups, auto backup, heavy duty cooling and towing packages. I also have friends that tow 28 foot and larger trailers and they all have turbo diesels and the torque of those engines are amazing, but the cost for initial purchase and some of the up keep is somewhat expensive.
I change the tires on everything when they hit 6 years old, regardless of how it looks, seen too many tire blowouts from tires that have aged beyond that. I also carry two spares in the trailer and check brakes, lights, and use an infrared temp gun to check tire and wheels temps when ever we stop.
I might be paranoid while towing but since it's the car riding in a trailer I don't feel too much safety is too much.
I have only towed the car to three shows, once to Carlisle for the 50th Mustang celebration because it was going to be displayed inside and they were calling for torrential rains,  SAAC 42 because my wife said she's getting too old to ride that far in the car and the 2016 MCACN Show in Chicago in a November because, well it's November in Chicago
I have towed other people cars, moved my daughter 800 miles and even moved flowers for a wedding with the trailer all with no problems or issues
Since I don't have a garage, the car sit in the trailer, I keep both heavily insured. The trailer has alarms, 8 sets of locks and even a boot to make it extremely difficult to move or break into
With all of this, it's one of the reasons I prefer to drive the car to most shows
235,000 miles and counting on the car
Owned since 1971, NOW DRIVEN OVER 250,000 MILES, makes me smile every time I drive it and it makes me feel 21 again.😎

CSX 4133


There has been some good advice given here, and i hope i can add to it. I tow fairly regularly cars weighing in the 2800-3600# range, mostly long distance to Texas/West Coast. I've owned two 24' steel trailers which I've pulled with a F250 Diesel Powerstroke. Unless you truly need the room, the added weight and inconvenience of getting into a service station isn't worth it. I currently use a 20' aluminum trailer made by Jimglo, much lighter weight, superior fit/finish and options galore.
If the intended use is mainly local, 300-500 mile range on fairly level topography any trailer will do that's rated for your desired load capacity. Do not scrimp on the tow vehicle or the trailer brake system, besides the 2/4 brake system on the trailer you are totally dependent on the trucks system to stop. And being pushed down a grade is a very scary proposition!

Get the newest diesel truck you can afford, these will have a towing package, heavy duty cooling and best transmission options. An added safety feature on the newer diesel trucks is the brake exhaust which really helps slow your truck on steep grades.I've towed with mine over Tejon Pass and Cajon Pass in California (both in the 4k foot range) towing between 6000-7500# loads with no issues whatsoever.

Trailer wise (depending on how and where you might use it) I would opt for the lightest/smallest trailer you absolutly need. Do get one with the side exit door, you do not want to have to crawl out the drivers door/window. Do get one with Dexter axles, they are among the best, and easily serviced. If you live in a warmer climate, do get the roof exhaust vent (maybe even two) if that is a concern. Mine has composite walls/roof so staying cool is not an issue. Bare in mind the darker the trailer color the warmer it will be inside and the more prone to sun fading as well. Trailers are a pain to keep looking nice, so one kept outside will always need maintenance cleaning/polishing. I'm fortunate to be able to store mine inside, which really helps reduce maintenance and wear items. Tires, this is personal preference, but I always get at least ten ply tires for my trailers. They hold up better and resist abrasions/cuts better. I always carry two spares on wheels wherever I go. I hope some of what I wrote is beneficial, maybe future posts could add what items are "must haves" for hauling cars.

~ Steven

Here's good explanation of GVWR vs GVW for trailers.


https://www.prolinetrailersales.com/news/gvwr-payload-trailer-weight-why-it-matters