What valve covers to use

[davez]

I have a friend  rebuilding his k code motor for his coupe. He wants to use roller tip rockers or full rollers. The original chrome covers won't work as I understand and I dont believe the aluminum covers will either without modification. He likes the look of the hollow letter cobra covers. What are the options and solutions? Thick gaskets? aluminum spacer? Is there a way to make the hollow letter covers work?
dz

[Bob Gaines]

I have a friend  rebuilding his k code motor for his coupe. He wants to use roller tip rockers or full rollers. The original chrome covers won't work as I understand and I dont believe the aluminum covers will either without modification. He likes the look of the hollow letter cobra covers. What are the options and solutions? Thick gaskets? aluminum spacer? Is there a way to make the hollow letter covers work?
dz

It depends on the roller rockers /roller tip rockers you use. I have seen some fit completely under the valve cover with some modifications to the baffle inside. Some need the thick aluminum spacer.  Others cleared with just a extra gasket.  I am sorry but I don't keep track of which fits what.

[Jim Herrud]

I like the look of the open letter valve Cobra covers as well. After a bit of forum research, I chose a pair from Scott Drake as they seemed to get good marks: P/N 6A582-CP. These are designed to be used with roller rockers, but SD hedges a bit saying that they fit "most" rocker arms. They fit my Edelbrock Performer RPM heads with roller rockers.

http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/6A582-CP.aspx?wid=141

[davez]

Thanks Bob, thanks Jim
Will do some test fitting with some original covers this weekend
Those drake ones may fit the bill
Dz

[ITHERTZ]

I've learned the black closed lettered valve covers may have the most room compared to the earlier open lettered versions.  Spacers and double thick gaskets are always a consideration if you are stuck with a certain style you want.  Otherwise, Branda also sells a newer much taller version that is flat on the top.

[CSX2259]

I use Competition Cams stainless steel roller rockers under stock stamped steel valve covers, no spacers are needed.

[tesgt350]

A friend has a Cobra with a 351 Windsor Small Block and found a company that sells a Cobra Valve Cover that looks like a FE Aluminum Valve Cover.  If you can find a set, that should be all you need.

[SFM5S000]

I finally got around to install these 3/8" steel valve cover spacers from Shelby Parts and Restoration so I can use the BB open letter valve covers.

I used Black Permatex RTV between the painted spacer and the head. Its currently curing. I'm also using 1/4x20 studs and nuts. Lets see what happens.

This post is a test, I'm also using it to see if I can add a pic to the post.

cheers,
~Earl J

[shelbydoug]

Randy would be a better source of what will fit or definitely won't fit without a spacer but I don't think it is necessarily the arms but the locking studs that cause interference.

The roller tipped generally will give more clearance.

Some of the bulkier arms like the CompCams stainless or the ultra black have more potential for clearance issues with the baffles.

Also the amount of lift the cam has is a factor .

Randy has probably broken more than us all combined with racing his car for 50 years.



Right now, I'm using 1.6 roller tipped with solid letter covers with no gaskets. Just glued on with silicone. Compcams cam with .528 lift. 1.6 Compcams roller tipped rockers. No problems.

I went that route anticipating a clearance issue but none developed. I'm planning on trying a set of full roller 1.7 soon though as soon as I find time from cleaning up from a horrendous winter and a disappointing, cold, wet spring. Soon.

The shaft mounts are calling at me. Siren to the rocks.



Earl's is a good alternative solution. I'm not sure that thick of a spacer is needed though?

[SFM5S000]

Hello Doug,

You're right, it doesn't need to be so thick. I took the baffles/shields out of the valve covers and just ran a set of double thick (glued together) cork gaskets all these years. I've lived with the mess it makes. I added a set of breathers and catch can which helps, so it's not too bad.

Jim Cowles had these spacers I bought from him 3-4 years ago and never got around to installing them until yesterday. My car is here in northern New York these days. The winter road salts have seemed to finally wash off from the recent rains which has motivated me to work on my car. I'm almost ready to send it back to California where I can literally drive it year round. My goal is to drive and try these tracks here in the north east with you guys.

You're right again, it's those tall lock nuts for those Stainless 1.6 ratio Crower roller rockers I run that causes the interference. I too have considered the shaft T&D's or JESEL which would really stabilize the valve train. I haven't thought about altering the valve train geometry with a different rocker ratio as this is a street driven car. So it really isn't necessary. I also want to maintain the period "vintage" look about it as much as possible. What I can't hide is the ARP 12 point nuts on the 1/2" head studs and the boss 302 block.

I'll post another pic once it's all back together.

~E

[shelbydoug]

Hello Doug,

You're right, it doesn't need to be so thick. I took the baffles/shields out of the valve covers and just ran a set of double thick (glued together) cork gaskets all these years. I've lived with the mess it makes. I added a set of breathers and catch can which helps, so it's not too bad.

Jim Cowles had these spacers I bought from him 3-4 years ago and never got around to installing them until yesterday. My car is here in northern New York these days. The winter road salts have seemed to finally wash off from the recent rains which has motivated me to work on my car. I'm almost ready to send it back to California where I can literally drive it year round. My goal is to drive and try these tracks here in the north east with you guys.

You're right again, it's those tall lock nuts for those Stainless 1.6 ratio Crower roller rockers I run that causes the interference. I too have considered the shaft T&D's or JESEL which would really stabilize the valve train. I haven't thought about altering the valve train geometry with a different rocker ratio as this is a street driven car. So it really isn't necessary. I also want to maintain the period "vintage" look about it as much as possible. What I can't hide is the ARP 12 point nuts on the 1/2" head studs and the boss 302 block.

I'll post another pic once it's all back together.

~E

LA guys never really understood the seasonal conditions we have here in the east. Now you do.
By the same token, that dry, dusty stuff that you get in the summer isn't much fun for me either.

I suppose that's why my car has only 22,000 miles on it?


I tried to get Randy to tell me if the shaft rockers would fit but his answer was don't use them. Use 7/16 studs. Maybe he expected me to read into that?

I'm going to switch to 1.7's. He said the geometry for those is right but the 1.8s isn't.

So if you switch and it blows up, blame him, not me.