67 GT500 clutch kit recommendations?

[cboss70]

I am in the market for a clutch kit for my GT500 and prefer to buy a kit so I get the clutch pieces, pilot bushing, throw out bearing etc. and don't have to figure out individual parts to buy.  If I go to Summit there are tons of choices and it seems like even narrowing down by model and engine some may not work.  I'm just looking for a basic/ stock style street set-up for a car that probably won't see many miles and is a driver not a show car.  If anyone can recommend a brand and specific part number I'd appreciate it.

[shelbydoug]

Presuming that that you have the correct/original 1-3/8" input shaft transmission in the car, this is about as good a deal as you will get.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Centerforce-DF559033-Dual-Friction-Clutch-Kit/362619515968

Many "kits" have the throwout bearing included in them. This one doesn't. I suppose it is to make the price more competitive?

I can't recall any kits recently that included the pilot bushing with them.


Search on ebay. You will see several alternatives but most are going to be a few hundred dollars more.

At one point, Shelby Parts and Restoration in Greenbay, WI, was a warehousing dealer for Mcleod. I don't know what his situation is with them right now but it's worthwhile to inquire with him I would think?

[Rickmustang]

Agree Centerforce is good. Check out David Kee Toploaders for his recommendations.

[pbf777]

     O.K., here comes trouble!             

     In my opinion, Centerforce is a fine company, and we use they're products, at times.  But this wouldn't be one of them!

     First off, I don't find the pedal function to be "correct", when substituting a "diaphragm" for a "Long-style" pressure plate when the latter were as it was, but maybe that's just me.                    

     Secondly, as for racing, or shall we say hi-performance driving applications, often you find that the "centrifugal-weights" get removed before installation, as otherwise they may attempt to exodus later.  I also find that in some instances their presents has a variable effect on the pedal effort, and the pedal release/engagement position which has an unappreciated effect on the foot and hand timing of the human participant in the operation, leading to potentially poor health for the transmission.               

      Also there may be the option of rebuilding your existing unit as this was one of the benefits to this design, depending on what unit you may currently have and it's condition.

      If interested, perhaps we can be of service to you, we would need additional information to make a specific recommendation, call us @ PBF @ 407-843-3673

      Scott.

[Bob Gaines]

If wanting origina I have a professional fresh rebuilt to original specs assemblyline big input clutch and assemblyline pressure plate for GT500 250.00 plus shipping. PM if interested.

[JWH]

I have installed three CenterForce clutch kits in three separate cars over the years and been very pleased with all three. I drive them around town and about the most aggressive treatment is a sprint on the on-ramp onto the highway. No racing. The Center Force in our '68 GT350 has been in the car 20+ years, all problem free.
      My most recent clutch install in my 67 GT500 was a McLeod kit. I went with something besides the CenterForce on the recommendation of the speed shop here in town. (Very knowledgeable guys at the counter). The one negative to the McLeod kit in my opinion is the throw-out bearing has a grease zerk and must be filled with grease. The directions do not tell you how much grease goes in and also do not say how often to service with more grease. And shooting in more grease once installed is a bit of a pain. The CenterForce throw-out bearing is sealed and does not need any service. Otherwise, the McLeod clutch has performed very well also.
Jeff
       

[FL SAAC]

New is new
+1 Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch

[shelbydoug]

     O.K., here comes trouble!             

     In my opinion, Centerforce is a fine company, and we use they're products, at times.  But this wouldn't be one of them!

     First off, I don't find the pedal function to be "correct", when substituting a "diaphragm" for a "Long-style" pressure plate when the latter were as it was, but maybe that's just me.                    

     Secondly, as for racing, or shall we say hi-performance driving applications, often you find that the "centrifugal-weights" get removed before installation, as otherwise they may attempt to exodus later.  I also find that in some instances their presents has a variable effect on the pedal effort, and the pedal release/engagement position which has an unappreciated effect on the foot and hand timing of the human participant in the operation, leading to potentially poor health for the transmission.               

      Also there may be the option of rebuilding your existing unit as this was one of the benefits to this design, depending on what unit you may currently have and it's condition.

      If interested, perhaps we can be of service to you, we would need additional information to make a specific recommendation, call us @ PBF @ 407-843-3673

      Scott.

The difference between a Long and a diaphram in this car is just going to be in the clutch pedal height. It won't rest at the same level. It won't come up as high with the diaphram as with the Long.

The Centerforce does have this strange property of pushing the pedal way up at high rpm. The first time it did that to me, I was a little freaked but it is part of the characteristics of the design.



I've been running the Centerforce dual friction in my 68 GT350 for about 25 years. It takes quite a while to completely break in. By that I mean it will slip just a bit, like a hiccup, now and then when you get on it until it is broken in.


I will also say that you need to use a forged flywheel with it rather then the factory cast flywheel. The dual friction disc has two different friction surfaces and the side that faces the flywheel WILL etch itself into the surface of a casting.

Other then that it is fine. It also has significantly less effort to operate then the Long clutch so it is easier on the linkage AND your leg. The Mcleod in particular can qualify as a bear trap for sure. Not so much with the Centerforce.


You can not run the Long, either as a Hays or a Mcleod WITHOUT beefing up the equalizer and it would be a great idea to replace the plastic bearings with ball bearings as well.

The original clutch had a pressure rating of 2,600 pounds. The linkage is designed and built with that number in mind. There is no Long clutch currently available with less then a 3,200 pound rating. That's too much for the stock equalizer and it will slowly bend to a point where the clutch pedal all the way on the floor will no longer release the clutch.


I also have the Centerforce in my Pantera and it helps since it needs less travel to disengage then the original long clutch does. Panteras have an issue with clutch travel limitations.

These are just my experiences with the clutches in two cars and others will have theirs and opinions as such.

That's really what you are asking and it's best to hear as much as you can and hear why?

[pbf777]

 

If anyone can recommend a brand and specific part number I'd appreciate it.

     Let me jump out there, making a few assumptions; your vehicle has an O.E.M. cast iron flywheel with the 11-1/2" - 12" pressure plate bolt pattern, and the transmission has the 1-3/8" 10 spline input shaft, as none of this has actually been stated by the O.P..           

     If this is so, and you wish to have new product,  then my recommendation would be:   Ram #88883, a long style, 11.5" diameter (12" replacement, as such isn't generally available any longer), organic/composite disc, with a pressure plate of 1896 lbs.; this is intended as an O.E.M. replacement application unit and should provide the approximate "feel" of the original as it was when new.  And this includes the throw-out/release bearing assy. also, but not the pilot bearing/bushing.

     If this should tickle your fancy, we have these available for the cost of $428.40 plus freight.               

The difference between a Long and a diaphram in this car is................ going to be in the clutch pedal height. It won't rest at the same level.

...............does have this strange property of pushing the pedal way up at high rpm. The first time it did that to me, I was a little freaked but it is part of the characteristics of the design.

It also has significantly less effort to operate then the Long clutch................

............... less travel to disengage then the original long clutch does.

These are just my experiences with the clutches in two cars and others will have theirs and opinions as such.

     And these are, but not limited to, some of the experiences to be expected.       

I've been running the Centerforce dual friction in my 68 GT350 .............. It takes quite a while to completely break in. By that I mean it will slip just a bit, like a hiccup, now and then when you get on it until it is broken in.

     This may have been your experience, but it's not correct!  Something ain't right!       

I will also say that you need to use a forged flywheel with it rather then the factory cast flywheel. The dual friction disc has two different friction surfaces and the side that faces the flywheel WILL etch itself into the surface of a casting.

      This is true!  But what's interesting is that the original intention of the "Dual-Friction" was to present the "other" than organic composite on the pressure-plate side of the disc due to the fact that the pressure-plate ring is of less mass than the flywheel and would when abused operate at higher temperature, and the "other" material would be engineered to tolerate this better.  Then it was found that the currently available pressure-plate rings were not compatible with this "other" friction material the manufactures just flipped the position as they were prepared to manufacture flywheels of a more compatible material.  A good marketing save, but is this a good engineering outcome?         

I also have the Centerforce in my Pantera and it helps since it needs less travel to disengage then the original long clutch does. Panteras have an issue with clutch travel limitations.

     The original long-style pressure-plate for the Pantera was unique, shorter in its' height, as the bellhousing is shorter in distance and area, and when Ford ran out, and you lost your original for rebuilding, you were stuck, with no choice, like it or not.           
     Scott.

[2112]

Over the years, I have had problems with engagement chatter with the long style.

I have confirmed the run out on the crankshaft flange is correct. machined the flange and face of the flywheel and balanced the entire assembly (Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate). One machinist told me chattering is the nature of the long style, I hate it.

Am I missing anything before I reassemble?

[pbf777]

Over the years, I have had problems with engagement chatter with the long style.

One machinist told me chattering is the nature of the long style,.........

     "Clutch chatter" can be a very complicated problem to solve as it is not the fault of just one thing, but rather involves every component acted upon in the function of the closer of the pressure plate; the differential in the engaged surfaces, the rate of torque application, components placed into motion their mass and resistance, and even the masses of things that were not intended to move; and to state that it is peculiar to the "long style" units versus others, I can attest to the fact that would not be an accurate statement solely on it's own.       

     But I will say the these older Mustang chassis are temperamental to this issue having much to due with the linkage system being shared with both the chassis and engine/transmission structure lending to unappreciated motion in this relationship with the functioning of the clutch, and that in some instances the diaphragm units may present a lesser working load on the linkage, and this reducing some of this movement, and thereby creating a change in the overall relationships which may have led to the discomfort.

     In other words clutch chatter is a vibratory reaction to a force applied, it's like the ringing of different sizes of bells, some of higher pitch than others, some louder than others, some appreciated, some not, but they're all still ringing; and for example, the often effect of changing the motor mounts, which may have been needed regardless due to poor condition, is perhaps somewhat like applying ones' finger to the ring bell with a silencing effect.       

     Scott.

[Cobrask8]

I'll toss in a few Monkey wrenches!

Agreed above, the motor could be moving during shifts due to soft motor mounts, binding the "Z" bar, and the once fluid action is now jammed or harder. Also, no one has talked about the flywheel. Is it warped, burnt, cracked, too old to work well? If it is unhappy, change that.

I use the SPEC clutch. It's stock style, but a little beefier. Has held up to all my shenanigans, survived two exploding engines.

Also, if you are not concerned about being perfect, consider an external hydraulic set-up? Superior to any mechanical linkage.