Paint recommendations for suspension parts, brackets, etc

[BeaterGT500]

Looking for help on what finishes should be applied (if any) to various parts for my Jan '67 built GT500.  Everything is coming back from the blaster this weekend, so I'd like to get them painted or coated properly ASAP before any surface rust can happen.  Parts:  rear axle housing, backing plates, disc brake shields, caliper brackets, spindles, coil springs, motor mounts, strut rods, bellhousing and separator plate, clutch fork, sway bar, hood hinges and springs, trans crossmember, front crossmember, tail light boxes, headlight buckets, front bumper brackets.  Probably a mix of chassis black, semigloss black, and raw steel?  Is there any product that can be applied at home without a spray booth... Or (gasp) by brush?  For the bare steel or iron parts, leaving them raw is not an option here in the wet NW, it has to be coated with something.

[Bob Gaines]

Looking for help on what finishes should be applied (if any) to various parts for my Jan '67 built GT500.  Everything is coming back from the blaster this weekend, so I'd like to get them painted or coated properly ASAP before any surface rust can happen.  Parts:  rear axle housing, backing plates, disc brake shields, caliper brackets, spindles, coil springs, motor mounts, strut rods, bellhousing and separator plate, clutch fork, sway bar, hood hinges and springs, trans crossmember, front crossmember, tail light boxes, headlight buckets, front bumper brackets.  Probably a mix of chassis black, semigloss black, and raw steel?  Is there any product that can be applied at home without a spray booth... Or (gasp) by brush?  For the bare steel or iron parts, leaving them raw is not an option here in the wet NW, it has to be coated with something.

These are very involved questions. i will give some short answers and other can expand on what I did not cover if they want to.   Caliper brackets, spindles, coil springs, motor mounts, strut rods, bellhousing and separator plate, clutch fork, trans crossmember, are basically bare steel or bare cast steel. FYI the bellhousing and engine block plate were installed when the engine was painted so there should be some engine paint overspray. You can zinc phosphate for protection and it will also hold the various rust inhibitor products better . Faux finish bare metal paint never looks right. I use rust inhibitor coatings which give durable results and look worlds better. You have to reapply depending on the elements they are exposed to.  Paint will chip and moisture can sometimes migrate through and cause rust underneath.  The most durable paints are two part. Unless you have extremely low expectations you will not be happy with brush painting. Best to rig up a temporary plastic sheet paint booth    Rear axle housing, backing plates, disc brake shields, sway bar, front crossmember, tail light boxes,  front bumper brackets ,are semigloss black. The headlight bucket is semigloss black too.The headlight buckets have zinc plated brackets riveted to them . Many zinc plate the entire bucket and then tape off the brackets before spraying in semi gloss black . I prefer to take the brackets off ,paint and re rivet them back on.I hope this helps.

[rmarble57]

For those unpainted surfaces I prefer Sharkhide.  Leaves no evidence of the protective coating:
www.sharkhidestore.com

[2112]

For those unpainted surfaces I prefer Sharkhide.  Leaves no evidence of the protective coating:
www.sharkhidestore.com

How long does that last before you need to reapply?

[Bob Gaines]

For those unpainted surfaces I prefer Sharkhide.  Leaves no evidence of the protective coating:
www.sharkhidestore.com

How long does that last before you need to reapply?

I have not used shark hide but suspect that like other similar products on the market that it will vary depending on the extreme conditions it is subjected to. For example it might last for years on static display in a garage or weeks exposed to salt water on treated icy streets.

[rmarble57]

Link to the FAQ section on Sharkhide website.
I can only attest to that I protected mine about 1 year ago and I see no evidence of surface rust.
Mind you, my car is in a climate controlled garage, but I do drive it, although not in inclimate weather.

http://www.sharkhide.com/faq.htm#:~:text=On%20boats%20that%20are%20kept,last%20a%20couple%20of%20years.

[BeaterGT500]

Thanks for the detailed reply, Bob.  Any recommended brands of zinc phosphate or rust inhibitor products to use?  As for the semigloss black paint, I'll have my body guy spray those to match all the other parts he already did.

[carlite65]

'I'll have my body guy spray those to match all the other parts he already did.'

that's not a good idea. those parts were painted at different times at differing locations so they were not all from the same batch of paint. each part has its own shade of semi-gloss.

[CharlesTurner]

that's not a good idea. those parts were painted at different times at differing locations so they were not all from the same batch of paint. each part has its own shade of semi-gloss.

+1

Also, some parts were dipped instead of sprayed and will have a different appearance.

[T-Bone68]

Welcome to the beginning of a really long journey.  Your best friend will be concoursmustang.com, often referred to as CMF in posts here.  You'll see some of the same friendly names that are helpful here.  I would search each part individually.

For me, I soak most the parts for a couple of days in a clean bath of Evaporust after blasting.  There are many nooks and crannies the media doesn't get into and it in general leaves parts rust free longer than media blast alone.  One heads up, some parts darken a little in Evaporust.  It usually cleans up easily with a light touch of steel wool.  Worst case, you can blast again.  For the all black parts, you might try to find a rattle can black primer to start.  A thin coat will hold off the rust as you research further how you want to paint each.  You'll sand or scour most the paint off before laying a primer coat anyway.  Get it from a car paint supply source and read if it is compatible with subsequent primer paints they sell. 

For the rear axle housing, there is a nice article if you google Mustang360 and Bob Perkins.  Tricky to do right in a backyard setup, but you will certainly have my respect if you decide to go for it.  Lots of powder coat shops do axle housings if you want durable and aren't worried about judging correct.  On the high end, you could post a request here in the Services Wanted section and there are members who own restoration shops who might offer.  Don't expect cheap to do right.