Quarter panel extension hardware

[DRGT350]

All,

Is there a source for correct quarter panel extension hardware? The AMK product Is a gold plating, original sink plated-

Thanks for any help,
Dave

[DRGT350]

Not sink !  Zinc...

[CharlesTurner]

Not that I'm aware of, I usually have originals re-plated. 

[Bob Gaines]

All,

Is there a source for correct quarter panel extension hardware? The AMK product Is a gold plating, original sink plated-

Thanks for any help,
Dave

FYI in doing the gold dichromate process the nut has to be plated zinc silver first. Then it is dipped in the dichromate which looks gold when it comes out. So if you put a little mild acid the gold will come off and expose the silver underneath. Not the answer every time but sometimes it gets you by.

[DRGT350]

thanks Charles and Bob -

I'll try both and see which turns out the best...

Dave

[CharlesTurner]

The 65 (and I am not sure if all 66) had the flat washer without the serrated edges. 

[DRGT350]

Bob and Charles - one more question on this - We read in the assembly manual  that the extensions were on the car when the car was painted at Ford originally (loose) - so should these nuts have white paint overspray on them?

Again  - many thanks -

Dave

[CharlesTurner]

Sometimes/usually see one nut with overspray as it was used to secure the car on the car, but there was most likely washers or a spacer to hold the quarter extension out slightly.  Jeff S. probably has many examples.

[J_Speegle]

Bob and Charles - one more question on this - We read in the assembly manual  that the extensions were on the car when the car was painted at Ford originally (loose) - so should these nuts have white paint overspray on them?.........

Guess we're discussing 68 NJ cars marked to be Shelby's since the answer depends on year and car. Do I have that correct?

[DRGT350]

jeff -

this is for a 65 gt 350  -

Dave

[DRGT350]

thanks Jeff -

[J_Speegle]

Sorry saw 65 but in my head I was still on 68 for some reason

At San Jose in 65 they did installed the end caps part way (spaced out from the body about 3/8- 1/2 inch one could guess) producing typically a shadow behind on the end of the quarter panel filler panel.

Assembly manuals often do not reflect what the factories and workers did just what Ford engineers thought they should. Please don't build a car based solely on the manuals. We've seen those and they don't look like real examples

NOTE: For others reading this make sure your match matches the same specific details (when and where the car was built) before you consider applying what follows. Details are different even at the same plant in other production years or even periods such as weeks or months in some cases

As mentioned the end caps were installed prior to the exterior color being applied to the trunk and exterior  Painters did not always take the time to turn the spray gun backwards and get paint in all the unseen corners of the trunk - in fact they apparently rarely did if ever.  For 65 it appears (evidence on some unrestored cars) that the sealer was applied on the mounting studs - guessing this helped hold them in place during the painting process. This also held the end caps away from the body approx 1/2" allowing the paint to wrap around the end cap and the end of the panels it attached to. You can see paint shadows on the body when you remove end caps on original paint cars.

You can find at times evidence of paint on the sealer on some cars but often the installation of the nuts and washers deformed and smashed the sealer (rolling it some what) so that the layer fell off or rolled so it would not be see. Also as a result of these practices the ends (studs) would have a coat of paint on them if the painter got the paint to the sheet metal around it - basically, like other areas it has to make sense.  Now the paint would have been stripped from the threads when the nuts were installed leaving, sometimes paint only on the long tip without threads . On some examples the end cap may have not been pushed on as much or the sealer greater in each hole which may have protected the stud from any paint getting on the tip and threads.

I've posted some examples from around the time period (not real close this time but representations of the practices of the time and plant

Hope this helps

No paint on the studs since too light of paint application



Paint on the tips here  - lot more paint in the area



Mix in the area - Not easy to see



Painted tips



No paint on tips


If it were mine I would do the painted tip in areas where there was paint on the interior of the trunk around the attachment point

Hope this helps - sorry for being long. Just trying to cover all the angles and possibilities truthfully

[CharlesTurner]

The nice thing about those AMK repro nuts are you can remove the black disc sealer and apply to an original re-plated nut.  It will squeeze out when tightened like in Jeff's pics.

[Rbwiii]

Agreed
I would also think that the studs would have body color along with a single nut.

[J_Speegle]

Agreed
I would also think that the studs would have body color along with a single nut.

The single painted nut is something more often found on 66 production San Jose cars from what I've collected the past thirty years.  I see by looking at your prior post that is the year Shelby you have. Plenty of differences between the two years even at the same plant

As the pictures show not all paint jobs got the paint applied to the area around where the stud popped through so they would not have any reason to have paint and on the ones were there is paint around the stud and sometimes visible on the sealant they sealant may have protected.

Just sharing unrestored cars. Have more since this is a Mustang detail not a Shelby only thing