Antifreeze in oil, HELP

[JD]

Pressure test and then pulling the spark plugs and checking the cylinders may help to narrow where a leak maybe.

[Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas]

I have 2 foot straight edge of you need one to check for straightness

[Rodster-500]

Corey,

I'd like to see the oil you drained. Could you put it in a glass container, let it sit overnight and post a pic?

Here's a thought.  Take some new oil, mix with antifreeze, gas, water, mix and see if any of the mixtures match what you drained.

Rod

[Bigblock]

On the subject of intake gaskets has anyone used the Fel Pro steel laminate gaskets like 1247S3? An engine builder said they tend not to distort when tightening.

[shelbydoug]

IF the heads have the intake gasket dowels in them, you need to be careful that the gaskets sit correctly on them and that the intake isn't being held away by them.

If you re-read my last post on the original "install" thread, you will see the numbers that I measured on the cork gaskets.

You can actually verify those numbers yourself prior to assembly.



You also need to be sure that the intake bolts aren't bottoming in the heads at all locations.

I think that those original 302 4v heads on the center 4 bolts used studs on the iron intake and if you want to replace them with bolts need to be drilled all the way through and retapped?

[Corey Bowcutt]

My heads do not have dowel pins in them for locating the gasket.

I am using the threaded studs in the 4 center positions.

But I do appreciate all advice as this problem is really troubling me.

Corey

[6s855]

You could put dye made for leak testing into the cooling system.  Get it in most auto parts store.  Let it circulate for a while.  Then use a UV flashlight to see if any dye has leaked into the oil.  If the leak is large enough you might see where the leak trail goes after pulling the intake.

[shelbydoug]

My heads do not have dowel pins in them for locating the gasket.

I am using the threaded studs in the 4 center positions.

But I do appreciate all advice as this problem is really troubling me.

Corey

I just didn't remember if they had the dowels or not? Mine are stored away and I'm running AFR heads.

That entire scenario of installing the heads, the T/A intake and the shim head gaskets gave me very similar results to what you are going through. I had to strip it down three times PLUS twice for the head gaskets.

This is where for still undetermined reasons, by eliminating the cork gaskets, the leaks < plural, stopped.

The leaks were all in exactly the same location you are working on. The back of the driver side head/block/intake intersection.

It may be the iron Cleveland heads with the dowels to use the turkey tray? All, ancient history.

Incidentally, you need to let the RTV start to set up before you torque it down. That way less will get into the intake ports and less into the oil pan.

[OldGuy]

My heads do not have dowel pins in them for locating the gasket.

I am using the threaded studs in the 4 center positions.

But I do appreciate all advice as this problem is really troubling me.

Corey

Guys, help me out here with my logic thread. I believe that somewhere back while I was taking "engine 101" that I deduced that the purpose of locating dowels pins or, in the case of SBF engines, locating "tubes" were used to ACCURATELY position the cylinder heads to not only assure that the heads were centered over their respective cylinders but to also assure that the cylinder head/intake interface is correctly positioned.

All of the through holes drilled in the cylinder heads have to have clearance for the fasteners to be installed. By relying on the head studs/bolts to achieve this CRITICAL head position, I believe that one is inducing a path to failure such as the one that you experiencing. I can visualize the head(s) shifting off position downward and/or canting slightly allowing the head/intake interface to have too much clearance and/or not be parallel. I can also invasion a vacuum leak scenario. A few thousandths of shift (especially if the center-most studs are used for alignment) can translate into a significant gap at the interface extremes.

Frank

[Corey Bowcutt]

Frank,

I have not removed my heads.  I imagine there are pins to locate heads to block.  I simply changed the screws in my intake when all hell broke loose.  I have been since trying to reseat the intake to eliminate the coolant leaks.  Removing the heads will be the next step but I really think the problem in with the mounting of the intake.

Corey

[Bob Gaines]

Frank,

I have not removed my heads.  I imagine there are pins to locate heads to block.  I simply changed the screws in my intake when all hell broke loose.  I have been since trying to reseat the intake to eliminate the coolant leaks.  Removing the heads will be the next step but I really think the problem in with the mounting of the intake.

Corey

Your logic on what seems to be the problem based on what happened when you removed the intake bolts is as sound now as when you first reported it. Stay the course and pursue resolving the problem by way of intake (careful) re install is my opinion.

[shelbydoug]

The heads here are not the problem. I agree with Bob. Re-install the intake. Third time's a charm. 

[Corey Bowcutt]

Thanks guys, the encouragement believe it or not helps.

Corey

[gt350shelb]

what gaskets did you install ?  there  are quite a few that  dont work on  older engines/ most are 5.0 ho  or 351 w style .the water  ports are  too big for early manifolds

[Corey Bowcutt]

I used the Fel Pro from NPD. If you have any suggestions for better gaskets I would love to hear them.
Corey