Separating quick steering arm from center link question

[SFM5S000]

Okay,
I'd typically have the shop do suspension/steering work, but because I'm not presently home in California and the car is in New York I decided to do a number of projects like replace the steering box with the correct HCC AX that Jim Cowles (RIP) rebuilt for me.

So, I've since pulled the engine/trans etc and I'm now to the point of separating the steering arm from the center link. If I used a pickle fork (ball joint separator) I'll ruin the rubber seal. Are there replacement seals? I've screwed on a nut onto the threads and attempted to hit it with a hammer and not damage the threads. Maybe I'm not hitting it hard enough?
Any suggestions?

Thanks,
~Earl J

[JD]

sometimes this style separator can work if you're careful ...

[kingchief]

I recently was taking apart the steering stuff. Also had a hard time beating them like crazy. I finally used a steering wheel puller that looks like JD's tie rod removal separator and it worked. Rubber seals are readily available from Virginia Classic Mustang. I just did not like the idea of the pickle fork. Looked to violent!!!

Cleaned all the parts and now putting everything back together today.

Cheers,

Steve

[67350#1242]

I bought one of these - works great for tie rods and pitman arms with no damage:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

[Jbarela]

I used a torch to heat up the area for a minute or two then gave s whack with reversed nut on top like you and it popped out. Just control where you direct the flame.

[Corey Bowcutt]

I did this and borrowed a tool from Pep Boys that was made specifically for that. It worked great and was free.
Corey

[Royce Peterson]

I too bought this tool and must say it's probably the best $30 I ever spent at HF.

I bought one of these - works great for tie rods and pitman arms with no damage:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

[Bob Gaines]

sometimes this style separator can work if you're careful ...

The one JD shows is the one I use so as to not damage boots and seals . I sometimes add a add a screw clamp around the gripping jaws to keep them from slipping off while tightening.

[SFM5S000]

Well, after running my errands looking for a tool that would work I ended up buying the one that 67350#1242 and Royce Peterson recommended. I have a couple other pullers similar to JD's but the jaws just don't seem to get a good enough grip under the arm. I did contemplate heating the area around the arm the threaded pin, but first wrapping the seal with aluminum foil to protect the rubber, then to expand the metal.

I'll let you know what avenue I took. Thanks for the suggestions

Cheers,
~Earl J

[Bob Gaines]

Well, after running my errands looking for a tool that would work I ended up buying the one that 67350#1242 and Royce Peterson recommended. I have a couple other pullers similar to JD's but the jaws just don't seem to get a good enough grip under the arm. I did contemplate heating the area around the arm the threaded pin, but first wrapping the seal with aluminum foil to protect the rubber, then to expand the metal.

I'll let you know what avenue I took. Thanks for the suggestions

Cheers,
~Earl J

Keeping the jaws from jumping off was why I added the screw band  clamp around the outside of both arms to hold them in place. I don't typically have to add the band screw clamp but on larger things . I have not used the other one so I can't comment on if better ,worse or the same. If anyone has a picture of that one mounted ready to do its job I would love to see it.

[67350#1242]

Bob, there are a few videos online with people using the HF separator.  One nice thing about it is that it can be used in tight places.  As with any tool you have to follow a few principles to avoid ruining the tool or hurting yourself.  A couple key points that may be obvious:  1. Oil the tool threads before use.  2. Leave the nut partially threaded on the joint to avoid stuff flying away.  3.  Use hand wrench not air wrench so you can feel the tension.  4. It works best to just tighten fairly snug then rap the area where stud passes through with a hammer until it pops.  Don't try to make the tool do all the work.

Some people have had to grind the fork area a little wider to slip over thicker studs but you should be able to slide the fork end fully in to the area between boot and steering arm or drag link before tightening.
Kurt.

[Bob Gaines]

Bob, there are a few videos online with people using the HF separator.  One nice thing about it is that it can be used in tight places.  As with any tool you have to follow a few principles to avoid ruining the tool or hurting yourself.  A couple key points that may be obvious:  1. Oil the tool threads before use.  2. Leave the nut partially threaded on the joint to avoid stuff flying away.  3.  Use hand wrench not air wrench so you can feel the tension.  4. It works best to just tighten fairly snug then rap the area where stud passes through with a hammer until it pops.  Don't try to make the tool do all the work.

Some people have had to grind the fork area a little wider to slip over thicker studs but you should be able to slide the fork end fully in to the area between boot and steering arm or drag link before tightening.
Kurt.

OK went right to it on YouTube. After watching the video I have to say I will not be purchasing the tool. I think the job can be done better with less risk with other tools . To each their own . For me I would be concerned with beating and marring a spindle to get a ball joint off and or tearing a boot along with the effort to get the job done. For a car that a person didn't care if that happened to then that is a inexpensive tool to use if you had to go and buy something.  I use a different tool for the ball joints and I use the tool like JD posted for pitman and tie rods. Coincidently I am getting ready to work on tie rods and ball joints and will take some pictures of what I use and post within the next day or so.

[Royce Peterson]

This tool doesn't do any of that Bob. It's a wonderful thing! I have not watched the videos, only used the tool for several years.

Pulls things like pitman arms from the steering link, ball joints, tie rods with ease.

Bob, there are a few videos online with people using the HF separator.  One nice thing about it is that it can be used in tight places.  As with any tool you have to follow a few principles to avoid ruining the tool or hurting yourself.  A couple key points that may be obvious:  1. Oil the tool threads before use.  2. Leave the nut partially threaded on the joint to avoid stuff flying away.  3.  Use hand wrench not air wrench so you can feel the tension.  4. It works best to just tighten fairly snug then rap the area where stud passes through with a hammer until it pops.  Don't try to make the tool do all the work.

Some people have had to grind the fork area a little wider to slip over thicker studs but you should be able to slide the fork end fully in to the area between boot and steering arm or drag link before tightening.
Kurt.

OK went right to it on YouTube. After watching the video I have to say I will not be purchasing the tool. I think the job can be done better with less risk with other tools . To each their own . For me I would be concerned with beating and marring a spindle to get a ball joint off and or tearing a boot along with the effort to get the job done. For a car that a person didn't care if that happened to then that is a inexpensive tool to use if you had to go and buy something.  I use a different tool for the ball joints and I use the tool like JD posted for pitman and tie rods. Coincidently I am getting ready to work on tie rods and ball joints and will take some pictures of what I use and post within the next day or so.

[67350#1242]

This tool doesn't do any of that Bob. It's a wonderful thing! I have not watched the videos, only used the tool for several years.

Pulls things like pitman arms from the steering link, ball joints, tie rods with ease.

That has been my experience as well - most of the time it isn't necessary to use hammer at all or a pretty light tap will work - not enough to mar surface. 
Most of the dopes on U Tube aren't using it correctly - I love it.
Kurt

[SFM5S000]

Well, good news! That tool from HF I bought worked like a charm. It was on sale too $19.99. I'd highly recommend that thing. It was too easy, it startled me with a "pop" the arm separating from the centerlink and the tool falling to the floor. Lol
Thank you everyone. Bob G you need one of these.

Now to take off that steering arm. Where's that 1 1/8 socket?

Thanks Guys.

Cheers
~Earl J