t5 conversion question

[FR500Racer]

6S264: I swapped mine in about 2006. Agree with JamesFee, it was one of the best mods you can make. I used the T5 M-7003-Z with some better internals. Nowdays, I'd go with the new TKX trans if you're pushing much over 400 lbft torque at the flywheel. Aluminum flywheel is a plus but I recommend a scattershield, same as JamesFee again. Dual-friction clutch is a no-brainer.

I found I did have to "mill off" about 3/16"x3/16" off the right side of the B&M shifter housing to avoid cutting the tunnel but I suspect that was due to the McLeod scattershield. And yes, you have to shorten the drive shaft.

The great thing about going with the 5 speed is having a tranny that acts like a close-ratio T10 but having the extra gear on the freeway. Say AAAAaahhhhhh!

[Johnkn]

As stated multiple times above, Bruce likely has the most experience, can provide anything from a complete kit to include the new T5Z, to any single part.  Yes the driveshaft will need to be shortened, but you would be better served retaining your original, and buying a new aluminum shaft.  That mod is the best mod you can do to these cars.  The stock T5Z comes with a 2.95 first gear and will be really short with a stock 3.89 rear.  You can get the T5Z with a taller first gear, or drop to a 3.50-3.70 rear. 

[6T6SHELBY]

I've been thinking about doing this conversion to my '66 for sometime. I know this will not be an easy question to answer but what do you think the total cost for this conversion would be (parts and labor)?

[Cobrask8]

Just some food for thought, as all the above conversions keep the original Z-Bar and clutch linkage.

If you go to a modern 5.0 bellhousing, It changes the throw-out arm mount to the reverse action, and the original clutch linkage will not work. But, if you are willing to be a little more open, then do a hydraulic clutch conversion, and your left leg with REALLY thank you!

To really make the clutch smooth, add the pedal modifications where the bushings are changed to roller bearings. Makes the clutch pedal feel like shifting a Toyota.

These parts (Hydraulic conversion, pedal bearings) are available as bolt-ins, just takes some research.

I did the hydraulic conversion on mine, and run a SPEC semi-race clutch, smooth as butter. T5Z behind.

On my old 69 Big Block, did the pedal mod, as most of our cars tend to elongate and destroy the pedal pivot holes on the steering column mount.

Both mods are relatively hidden, not a glaring mod, and accepted by almost everybody but the non-driving purists. Again, a little more work and cost, but like all other on the thread, makes driving so much better!

[Cobrask8]

All things must come to an end - So as the sands of time fall though the hourglass, so shall this thread fall apart.

I see a couple of guys trying to help out. 

Agreed, just LOTS of useful information, no hi-Jacks.

[98SVT - was 06GT]

Nowdays, I'd go with the new TKX trans if you're pushing much over 400 lbft torque at the flywheel.

They just put one of these in the OVC GT350R. Even though the case is much smaller than the TKO600 they needed to trim the trans tunnel brace on the unibody to get the angle right. New driveshaft and rear trans mount too of course.

[SFM6S087]

I have a friend who did the T5 conversion on his 1966 GT350 a year or two ago. He first installed the new trans, then took measurements and had a driveshaft made to those specs. All per guidance from Modern Driveline.

[Shelby_r_b]

I did the conversion myself almost 2 years ago. I ordered all my parts through Modern Drive Line. I used the original bell housing and had a new driveshaft built per MDL. As Steve mentioned below, I installed the tranny, took the measurements requested, and they shipped me the new drive shaft in no time.

As others have said: one of the best improvements I've made to the car! And, as also mentioned, the T5 1st gear is short for a stock 3.89 rear ended. Not impossible to live with, and my bigger challenge would be the 5th gear ratio. The throw from 4th to 5th is long (RPM wise). I'd love to shorten up the distance between 4th and 5th, but I believe the newest tranny addresses both 1st and 5th.

I won't ever go back. The original tranny sits safely on the shelf.

Hope this helps!

[SFM6S087]

I did the conversion myself almost 2 years ago. I ordered all my parts through Modern Drive Line. I used the original bell housing and had a new driveshaft built per MDL. As Steve mentioned below, I installed the tranny, took the measurements requested, and they shipped me the new drive shaft in no time.

As others have said: one of the best improvements I've made to the car! And, as also mentioned, the T5 1st gear is short for a stock 3.89 rear ended. Not impossible to live with, and my bigger challenge would be the 5th gear ratio. The throw from 4th to 5th is long (RPM wise). I'd love to shorten up the distance between 4th and 5th, but I believe the newest tranny addresses both 1st and 5th.

I won't ever go back. The original tranny sits safely on the shelf.

Hope this helps!

Mr. Horseshoe, one of the questions was total cost. Could you comment on that?

Thanks,
Steve

[jguyer]

Got an estimate of (additional) $4800 for '67 conversion to 5 speed in Detroit area recently. Don't know what transmission and he was doing other work requiring 4 speed removal. Decided against it.

[Shelby_r_b]

I did the conversion myself almost 2 years ago. I ordered all my parts through Modern Drive Line. I used the original bell housing and had a new driveshaft built per MDL. As Steve mentioned below, I installed the tranny, took the measurements requested, and they shipped me the new drive shaft in no time.

As others have said: one of the best improvements I've made to the car! And, as also mentioned, the T5 1st gear is short for a stock 3.89 rear ended. Not impossible to live with, and my bigger challenge would be the 5th gear ratio. The throw from 4th to 5th is long (RPM wise). I'd love to shorten up the distance between 4th and 5th, but I believe the newest tranny addresses both 1st and 5th.

I won't ever go back. The original tranny sits safely on the shelf.

Hope this helps!

Mr. Horseshoe, one of the questions was total cost. Could you comment on that?

Thanks,
Steve

Oops! Good catch, Steve!

I believe it was $2,500-$2,800 all in for parts only. And, that was for ALL the parts, to include the cross member, new driveshaft, new clutch, etc.

[pbf777]

and my bigger challenge would be the 5th gear ratio. The throw from 4th to 5th is long (RPM wise). I'd love to shorten up the distance between 4th and 5th,

     This is how it is, and intended to be (with the standard .63 ratio over-drive), and don't be "speed-shifting" into, as the race is over once one chooses O.D..   But note that a .80 ratio O.D. gear set has been available (on & off) but is not truly a direct "drop-in" in many cases.     

     Scott.

[shelbydoug]

and my bigger challenge would be the 5th gear ratio. The throw from 4th to 5th is long (RPM wise). I'd love to shorten up the distance between 4th and 5th,

     This is how it is, and intended to be (with the standard .63 ratio over-drive), and don't be "speed-shifting" into, as the race is over once one chooses O.D..   But note that a .80 ratio O.D. gear set has been available (on & off) but is not truly a direct "drop-in" in many cases.     

     Scott.

The Richmond, aka, Doug Nash 4+1, has the T10 gear spacing. 5th is 1 to 1. 1st is 3.26.

You make your overdrive by whatever you select for the rear.

That's the reason that I went with it besides the launch factor with a 3.50 rear is in the ET sweet zone, i.e., 1st x final = 11 or higher.