question with car not wanting to turn off.

[BGlover67]

Quick question:  Twice I have experienced the situation where the car wouldn't turn off when I switched the ignition key to off, and even removed the key!  The first time, I replaced the starter solenoid even though I suspected it was probably the ignition switch.  It didn't happen for a few months.  Last Saturday, it happened again.

Has anyone else ever had this happen to their Ford product?  I have an NOS switch, so I guess it's time to swap it out already.
Easy enough job?

Thanks!

[jk66gt350]

I had this happen once or twice back in the day with Fords I owned, and it was a key / ignition switch problem.

[TOBKOB]

Whenever I put the repro Autolite solenoid on (for judging) it will keep running or starter will keep starting if I forget to change it back to the NAPA solenoid.

TOB

[KR Convertible]

It's easier with the cluster out, but can be done without.

1.  Disconnect battery.

2.  Remove lock cylinder.  With key in ACC position, there will be a small pin visible in the hole below the key.  Push the pin in with a small wire, I usually use a small paper clip.  While holding that pin in, rotate the key further counter-clockwise, past where it would normally stop and the cylinder will come out.

3.   Remove ignition switch by pulling it towards the dash, compressing the spring.  Rotate switch, while holding bezel from turning.  It works kind of like a bulb with the 2 pins, push in and rotate 1/8 turn.

4.  Change over wires and re-install. 

[Bigfoot]

So we are not talking about "dieseling " here.

[Bigfoot]

Has happened to me and can be solenoid or ignition but once it was a stuck starter. At least that was partly to blame. "perfect storm."
That was not any fun and you will smell it.

To be safe I removed and installed all 3 with new and NOS.

[JD]

Solenoid would be my guess.  (could be out of adjustment or has/is failing)

[BGlover67]

So we are not talking about "dieseling " here.

No, Biggie.  I could walk away with the key and it would run for another hour.  Comical actually.

[BGlover67]

Solenoid would be my guess.  (could be out of adjustment or has/is failing)

JD, do you think even though I just replaced it a month ago?  To stop it, I removed the back upper connector from the solenoid.  When I replaced it, it started up just fine with no issues.  Now it operates perfectly.  I'm thinking it's a Gremlin.

[JD]

I had a similar occurrence about 7 years ago. (I just stood on the brakes and popped the clutch to stall the car)

After checking around it seems that some of the more correct looking solenoids would do that.  I replaced it with one that was not as correct in appearance but others had said they had no issues with and every thing was fine after that.

Could be the solenoid?

[Bob Gaines]

Solenoid would be my guess.  (could be out of adjustment or has/is failing)

JD, do you think even though I just replaced it a month ago?  To stop it, I removed the back upper connector from the solenoid.  When I replaced it, it started up just fine with no issues.  Now it operates perfectly.  I'm thinking it's a Gremlin.

Solenoid gets its activating power from the ignition switch. The solenoid doesn't regulate power the coil (which keeps car running) . The ignition switch regulates power to the coil. A very defective solenoid could back flow power to the ignition switch I suppose but Ignition switch is still the most likely culprit given the symptoms .   

[greekz]

Brian,

I had the same problem with my 66.  Changed the ignition switch and the problem was solved.

Greek

[2112]

Is there a good replacement ignition switch or do you need to search for a NOS unit?

Are they rebuildable?

[silverton_ford]

Is there a good replacement ignition switch or do you need to search for a NOS unit?

Are they rebuildable?

Just about any parts store would have one.  I would try NAPA Echlin first.   They are common in a lot of Fords in the 60's.  Tricky to change if you have never done it before, but nothing you can't handle.   I wouldn't waste my time trying to rebuild one....they are cheap to buy and hidden under the dash.

[Bigblock]

Solenoid would be my guess.  (could be out of adjustment or has/is failing)

To stop it, I removed the back upper connector from the solenoid. 

Solenoid battery connection remained connected to the 'I' terminal after starting. Remove that wire and engine stops. If that's true then coil getting full voltage all the time. Or a feedback loop if there is a Pertronix involved.