Wheel alignment settings

[GT350AUS]

What are the recommended and the best wheel alignment settings be to get stable driving car at cruising speed of 70mph on country roads where there could be uneven roads and truck ruts

And also to get the steering to self centre

Thanks in advance

Ross

[shelbydoug]

You use the same settings as stock.

1/2 degree negative camber. 2-1/2 degrees positive caster (if you can get it), and 3/16" toe in.

The positive caster is what "encourages" the steering to return to center but that isn't highly successful with this steering design.

2-1/2 degrees could make the tires hit the front of the fender openings while turning. That depends on the specifics of your car, i.e., tires, ride height, big block or small block.

In my experience a '68 is only going to accept about 1-1/2 degrees without tire interference issues.

[FL SAAC]

You use the same settings as stock.

1/2 degree negative camber. 2-1/2 degrees positive caster (if you can get it), and 3/16" toe in.

The positive caster is what "encourages" the steering to return to center but that isn't highly successful with this steering design.

2-1/2 degrees could make the tires hit the front of the fender openings while turning. That depends on the specifics of your car, i.e., tires, ride height, big block or small block.

In my experience a '68 is only going to accept about 1-1/2 degrees without tire interference issues.

+ 1 got that right

[GT350AUS]

Sorry. Forgot to mention its a KR

[FL SAAC]

Sorry. Forgot to mention its a KR

Same specifications and shhhhhhhhh the car does not know it's a kr......

[shelbydoug]

The settings are the same regardless of the "driveline". They will react differently though.

'68s don't return well to center by themselves.

[corbins]

+1 ,,, but radial tires and their size will lead to some tweeking of those specs for optimal handling.

[GT350AUS]

Of course it know its a KR....well it does at the fuel pump. Hahahahaha.

Oh wait thats me.

[shelbydoug]

+1 ,,, but radial tires and their size will lead to some tweeking of those specs for optimal handling.

Yes. With a radial you can go to about -1 camber with little accelerated wear and with a lot more grip.

Unless you are going to go to serious modifications beginning with an upper a-arm lowering, there isn't much to be gained by doing so though.