GT500KR phosphate and/or natural finish pieces

[Jack4159]

Have found a place that will phosphate parts for me and would appreciate advice/help on parts that I should have phosphated. I have used the search function but I'm 200 miles from the place so hopeful of getting everything I need done in one go.
So far I intend to phosphate finish
1)hood hinges and springs
2)hood latch
3)spindles. I know phosphating not correct but is it the best compromise available?
4)AC idler pully bracket

Also, for the pieces that have a natural finish is cast iron paint the way to go if I don't want to leave it susceptible to rust.

The car is undergoing a full resto, not looking to show for concours but am trying to be correct where I can.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[Bob Gaines]

Have found a place that will phosphate parts for me and would appreciate advice/help on parts that I should have phosphated. I have used the search function but I'm 200 miles from the place so hopeful of getting everything I need done in one go.
So far I intend to phosphate finish
1)hood hinges and springs
2)hood latch
3)spindles. I know phosphating not correct but is it the best compromise available?
4)AC idler pully bracket

Also, for the pieces that have a natural finish is cast iron paint the way to go if I don't want to leave it susceptible to rust.

The car is undergoing a full resto, not looking to show for concours but am trying to be correct where I can.

Thanks in advance for any help.

The lower fixed idler pulley bracket also.

[J_Speegle]

3)spindles. I know phosphating not correct but is it the best compromise available?

More of a range than exact looking finish. How dark they were depended on how  old (and dirty) the quenching oil was at the time. Not the only product but I like using gun bluing repair fluid that is also sold under the term metal darkening.  Clean and get the metal darkened then remove the tint from the machined surfaces and the test spot on the inside surface of the spindle - reverse side to where the rotor and everything else will be added.

[Jack4159]

Have found a place that will phosphate parts for me and would appreciate advice/help on parts that I should have phosphated. I have used the search function but I'm 200 miles from the place so hopeful of getting everything I need done in one go.
So far I intend to phosphate finish
1)hood hinges and springs
2)hood latch
3)spindles. I know phosphating not correct but is it the best compromise available?
4)AC idler pully bracket

Also, for the pieces that have a natural finish is cast iron paint the way to go if I don't want to leave it susceptible to rust.

The car is undergoing a full resto, not looking to show for concours but am trying to be correct where I can.

Thanks in advance for any help.

The lower fixed idler pulley bracket also.

Thanks once again Bob, always appreciate your advice.

[Coralsnake]

Power steering steel bracket

[Jack4159]

3)spindles. I know phosphating not correct but is it the best compromise available?

More of a range than exact looking finish. How dark they were depended on how  old (and dirty) the quenching oil was at the time. Not the only product but I like using gun bluing repair fluid that is also sold under the term metal darkening.  Clean and get the metal darkened then remove the tint from the machined surfaces and the test spot on the inside surface of the spindle - reverse side to where the rotor and everything else will be added.

Thank you. I did a bit  of research after your post and we can get diy kits as you describe in Oz, good to know.

[Jack4159]

Power steering steel bracket

I'll add it to the list, thanks Pete.

[Jack4159]

Natural finish parts:

So far I have on my list

Driveshaft, strut rods, leaf springs ,spring hangers and shock mounting plates.
I'm sure I am missing some/perhaps many , any advice on other natural finish parts that came with a natural finish much appreciated.

(Marcus Anghel is restoring my upper and lower control arms, steering box, tie rods and spring perches so don't have to worry about them)

I'm thinking I may the natural finish parts phosphated, or is a cast iron paint the better way to go? Or some other method?
I'm going to drive the car regularly and will no doubt get caught in the rain, so prefer to coat these pieces rather than leave natural.

Once again, thanks in advance for any advice.

[J_Speegle]

Natural finish parts:

So far I have on my list

Driveshaft, strut rods, leaf springs ,spring hangers and shock mounting plates.
I'm sure I am missing some/perhaps many , any advice on other natural finish parts that came with a natural finish much appreciated.........................

I'm thinking I may the natural finish parts phosphated, or is a cast iron paint the better way to go?

Or some other method?

Many of the parts you have and will add would be two dark typically if they received  P&O. if they are worked after they are plated with phosphate then the protective coated is reduced or removed.

Please understand that many of the items you and listed and will list though referred to as "natural" have different final looks in a restoration. Some parts - for example springs and spindles- were heat formed and oil quenched so they would a typically have a darker finish to the final part then ones that were not heat formed and quenched. Also - for example lets use a spindle - some of the parts have different looks to multiple surfaces that make of the part. For the spindle you would normally see a dark to somewhat dark cast main body, with the machined surfaces towards where the rotor and shield would attach. In addition you have the locations where the ball joint attach,  4 surfaces, as well as the side machined surfaces on the upper arm, you have caliper mount pads, tie rod attachment points , top and bottom. In addition you have the steering stop pad on the inner arm surface as well as the hardness test spot that all would have bright freshly machined surfaces. The difference will show a very contrasting look to the final part.




Its been my experience that painted and clear will at some point get moisture under or on the edge of the coating and will develop rust under the coating or through the surface. The repairing of these spots often means removing and refinished. Issues with painting or clearing after you strip them under the car is the issue. repair stuff gets on other parts and items in the general location. Often this starts when the paint or coating gets chipped while your driving or where you attached the part to another. as tightening will crack, scrape or remove the coating in that areas. Even going back and brushing clear over the area and the attaching hardware has resulted in rust developing even on my local pretty dry SW locations on some examples. Also consider that any painted or cleared part that makes contact with another will have it's surface compromised from that contact. Paint and clear will not repair it's self where a protective coat can or at least limit the issue since some will make their way into the surface of the metal. Examples would include the rear springs. Clamps and leaves of the spring each move slightly different creating contact and wear between them 

Where if you do natural a simple application of a stainless steel or brass brush on the problem location, a recoloring, often with a small brush, and just re oiling the part has been much easier and quicker.

I'm going to drive the car regularly and will no doubt get caught in the rain, so prefer to coat these pieces rather than leave natural.

Remember with some plated and natural parts it's typical for restorers to apply a protective layer oil or film and add additional coats as part of the maintenance process

The car is undergoing a full resto, not looking to show for concours but am trying to be correct where I can.

This was sort of a reminder for me and others as to what your stated goal.

Good luck with your choices.

[Jack4159]

Thanks Jeff for such a detailed and helpful response, there's a lot of information there to think about and consider.
Great advice, I have read it a few times and will a few more....Thank you for taking the time to give me some guidance!

[J_Speegle]

Wrote that a bit late at night so might not read as well as it should if you have any questions feel free to PM or aask them here. Want to make sure its clear and that is somewhat difficult using just words are time.