driveshaft restoration

[Jack4159]

Mine has what I imagine is the usual 50 year coating of rust and dirt.
I found a post on concoursmustang where the shaft was immersed in a bath of evaporust in a tube of 4"pvc(smart idea!)and then scrubbed off with 220 to 600 grit.
Is this the accepted method, or are there other ways?
Thanks as always.

[68blk500c]

Mine straight out of the evaporust bath, with a light water rinse, without scrubbing.

[Rickmustang]

That's what I did too. Dead Nuts On does restore driveshafts.

[csheff]

 know it's a typo, Dead Nuts

[Bob Gaines]

Mine has what I imagine is the usual 50 year coating of rust and dirt.
I found a post on concoursmustang where the shaft was immersed in a bath of evaporust in a tube of 4"pvc(smart idea!)and then scrubbed off with 220 to 600 grit.
Is this the accepted method, or are there other ways?
Thanks as always.

What are your expectations for the end result?

[Jack4159]

Mine has what I imagine is the usual 50 year coating of rust and dirt.
I found a post on concoursmustang where the shaft was immersed in a bath of evaporust in a tube of 4"pvc(smart idea!)and then scrubbed off with 220 to 600 grit.
Is this the accepted method, or are there other ways?
Thanks as always.

What are your expectations for the end result?

This is the end result on the thread I was looking at, I would be happy with that.
I did see the new ones at deadnutson and dont expect it too come up that good.

[Bob Gaines]

Mine has what I imagine is the usual 50 year coating of rust and dirt.
I found a post on concoursmustang where the shaft was immersed in a bath of evaporust in a tube of 4"pvc(smart idea!)and then scrubbed off with 220 to 600 grit.
Is this the accepted method, or are there other ways?
Thanks as always.

What are your expectations for the end result?

This is the end result on the thread I was looking at, I would be happy with that.
I did see the new ones at deadnutson and dont expect it too come up that good.

A lot depends on the condition of the drive shaft to start with. A lightly corroded one with get good results but a more heavily corroded one will get poor results. They will not not all come out the same using the described methods. If you are doing yourself then you can accomplish that look using the example process with a minimally corroded driveshaft .Those minimally corroded examples are not too common. Typically they will have many rust pits in the surface of the metal even after all of the restoration work. They typically will not be good enough for show . To guarantee a result similar to your expectations is to side step the process and have Jack (Dead nuts On)build you one. Also if you are having someone else restore the drive shaft for you the hourly rate involved with a typical shop and a 50-100 shop rate the labor would quickly add up making the end result comparable in price to one of Jacks drive shafts and it would still most likely not be show quality.

[Jack4159]

The deadnutson ones are nice but I would guess freight to Australia would be around $300- minimum, most likely more...good option to have though.
I think I will give the evaporust a go as I will be doing it myself so no real cost involved.
At least now I know now to prepare myself for a likely less than stellar outcome, so that is handy knowledge.
Thanks Bob and everyone.

[Jack4159]

Well, I thought about it and...ordered one from Jack at dead nuts on. Freight to Australia US$170- so not too bad.
Thanks for the advice once again.

[J_Speegle]

In the reusing or restoration of drivelines, since they are bare steel as a final finish and look, it all depends on what the condition of the original is. Too much pitting? Then not many choices. If in good condition you can restore them to look like new. Also depends on you much time or money you choose to invest in either path.

Good luck with your choices

[Side-Oilers]

I bought one a few years ago from Jack at Dead Nuts On, for my KR, and it is extremely well done.

But, I have since added a Gear Vendors overdrive to my car, so I had another driveshaft built/shortened for that install. 

The first one is just sitting in my garage, and I'd sell it for a very reasonable price, if anyone's interested.   

It was only in the car for less than 500 miles.

It is for a 4-speed.

Yes, I will post this in the For Sale section too, but this thread topic just made me remember I still had it.

[1175]

I installed one of the repos from dead nuts on yesterday.  Quality piece!

Jon

[Steve Z]

    Since on this Topic. Can some one clarify the meaning behind the paint markings and the proper location of the colors? Thanks

[J_Speegle]

    Since on this Topic. Can some one clarify the meaning behind the paint markings and the proper location of the colors? Thanks

Like many items than made up the suspension and drivetrain paint markings were applied so that the workers could quickly look at the buildsheet. identify a color or combination of colors for the part of the car and quickly locate and install the correct part on the car.  Not all are listed on the buildsheet. Often some were placed inb a subassembly elsewhere in the car plant or at the supplier of the subassembly. Example rear ends (though there can be one mark added at the car plant depending on year and plant) and transmissions.

In the case of the drivelines for 68 the drivelines were marked with three colored stripes to identify the application while there are often additional markings. The markings were applied at the plant that cut the tubing and assembled the drivelines by adding the end yokes and finally marking them. The guy or kid that applied the stripes didn't always apply them in an exacting way or always exactly in the same spot. There was more than one worker assigned to the task given it was shift work and depending on volumne

Pete Disher's 68 site has a buildsheet identification stripe chart so no reason to replicate it here

[68stangcjfb]

I bought one a few years ago from Jack at Dead Nuts On, for my KR, and it is extremely well done.

But, I have since added a Gear Vendors overdrive to my car, so I had another driveshaft built/shortened for that install. 

The first one is just sitting in my garage, and I'd sell it for a very reasonable price, if anyone's interested.   

It was only in the car for less than 500 miles.

It is for a Top Loader.

Yes, I will post this in the For Sale section too, but this thread topic just made me remember I still had it.

Did you have to alter the floor pan to install the Gear Vendors Overdrive? Sorry to hijack the thread.