Stuck distributor Ideas please

[hurlbird]

68 302. Went to time it and the darn thing is frozen in there. Hold down removed I cannot get it to even budge. Thoughts? Heat? WD 40 is on there now. Thanks

[Royce Peterson]

I had one that got stuck like that in a J code 302. I took the vacuum advance off, put Aerocroil on it and then used a strap wrench. It came loose no problem.

[hurlbird]

thanks... we will see.........

[rhjanes]

Get some PB Blaster instead of the WD-40.  Spray that on the joint and let it sit overnight.  Then the strap wrench is a great idea. 

[shelbydoug]

That engine more then others for some strange reason seems to be susceptible to oil getting on the o-ring/distributor gasket and drying to the point that it becomes like an adhesive.

I've seen the o-ring dry up and crumble after this so I'd recommend replacing it and putting a little grease on it. Perhaps anti-seeze would work on it but I honestly have never tried it there before. Necessity is the mother of invention.

I've seen it where you need to use the claw end of a flat bar to pry it up to get it out as well. So don't be surprised if you need to go to that extent to get it out.

[Royce Peterson]

I said Aerocroil, not WD-40. Far different product. Way better than PB Blaster.



https://www.kroil.com/products/kroil-original-penetrant-best-penetrating-oil/

Get some PB Blaster instead of the WD-40.  Spray that on the joint and let it sit overnight.  Then the strap wrench is a great idea.

[NC TRACKRAT]

+1 for the KROIL.  It's amazing stuff.

[hurlbird]

thanks.. WD aint showing me much so far!

[Royce Peterson]

WD is good for things like drying out a distributor that gets soaked with water. It's not great as a penetrant or a lubricant.

thanks.. WD aint showing me much so far!

[gt350hr]

   +2 Kroil will get the job done. A little smelly but nothing better in my book.

[Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas]

When I took my distributor out in 1996 it had not been loosened since aprox. 1973 and had over 120,000 miles in that position. It took an acetylene torch to get it loose. Recently we also recently used a tool called "Bolt Buster" ( an induction heater) to loosen nuts, bolts, distributors, engine block sending units and fasteners  We were able to free up a frozen top frame on a 1965 Galaxie that had been sitting outside for 9 years uncovered. It took a lot of PB Blaster, Kroll and even WD40, but the heat seemed to get it loose the best. Be careful prying on the distributor as they tend to break at just above the manifold level if the pressure is too great and with the aluminum construction its easy to apply too much pressure.
They are also right about the O Ring, it gets rock hard and seizes to the block, extremely had to break loose and even then its doesn't move well.
This is an item you need to take you time with to avoid damaging or destroying the distributor. The strap wrench idea seems to be the best for attempting to move it
Good Luck

[rhjanes]

Kroil looks interesting.  I tried a few auto supplies near me, none have it or it's a few days to get it.  Seafoam Deep Creep is also a decent penetrating oil. 

[JWH]

Steve McDonas makes a comment I would like to second and that is heat is a big help. I recently had some bolts snap when removing an old water pump. I soaked them for days with no luck. I finally pulled out the Wagner Heat gun and heated the area around the bolt (but not the bolt itself) and they finally broke free. Try heating the intake manifold around the distributor and then immediately try to break free using the strap wrench.
Jeff

[hurlbird]

Tried heat. Soaking now. Will try strap.. thanks

[NC TRACKRAT]

Speaking from experience, patience is a virtue.  Don't push your luck. It will come free in due time.