Tool to remove drain plug on T-10 transmission

[JWH]

I would like to change the transmission fluid in the T-10 and the plugs are being difficult to remove. They are a four-sided plug so standard box wrenches and sockets don't fit. It there a special tool for this job? If so, what is it called and any lead to a part number and who makes it would be appreciated. I am thinking a four-sided box wrench or socket that could take some force and not round the fitting would be the ticket. Thanks for any suggestions.

[6s1640]

Hi JWH,

If you get desperate, a pipe wrench should do the trick.  What is nice about the pipe wrench, oriented such that the harder you pull, the harder the pipe wrench bites on the plug.  You might have a new plug ready to reinstall before you remove the old one.  I am not aware of a specialty tool to remove the square plug.

Good luck

Cory

[PrettyMuchAShelbyGuy]

Unless it's really corroded, a good sized crescent wrench should do the trick as well.

[s2ms]

I've always used the appropriate size open end wrench, or crescent wrench as mentioned.

Make sure to remove the fill plug first. If you remove the drain plug first and then cannot remove the fill plug you are in trouble.

[trotrof1]

I believe its a 5/8 in size. A quality wrench like Snap-on should get a good grip if the plug isnt rounded off.

[s2ms]

Have the car in the air at the moment so took a look....was able to get a 9/16" open end wrench on both plugs, tight fit which is good!

[6s1640]

Have the car in the air at the moment so took a look....was able to get a 9/16" open end wrench on both plugs, tight fit which is good!

Hi JWH,

By all means, if a standard wrench will do the job, do it.  I like Dave's suggestion on the fill plug first.  But if you round off the corners and the standard wrenches or crescent wrenches aren't  working, your last resort can be the pipe wrench.  Yes, it sounds a little crude, but it will get a rounded plug off, but you have to use correctly to get the wrench to bite with the pull.  If you pull backwards, it won't bite.

Best of luck

Cory

[OldGuy]

Guys, tool manufacturers make sockets for square-headed applications. Just do a Google or Bing search to find out who make them and where to get one.

Pipe plugs can be difficult to remove if someone has over-tightened them in the past (which appears to be the case). Using a square socket allows one to apply brute force to remove the pipe plug WITHOUT destroying it.

Frank

[JohnHouston]

I've always used the appropriate size open end wrench, or crescent wrench as mentioned.

Make sure to remove the fill plug first. If you remove the drain plug first and then cannot remove the fill plug you are in trouble.

+1 . .  . Make sure you can get the fill plug out!!!

John

[JWH]

Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. Old Guy, the term Pipe Plug is the key to me doing a successful search to find a four-sided tool. I have tried the open end wrenches and also a big Crescent wrench but as Old Guy pointed out, someone REALLY tightened the two plugs. Or over time, they have just become extremely stubborn. Also, the thought about getting the "Fill" plug out before the "Drain" plug is helpful. Now off to do some tool shopping for a "Pipe Plug Wrench."
Jeff

[OldGuy]

Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. Old Guy, the term Pipe Plug is the key to me doing a successful search to find a four-sided tool. I have tried the open end wrenches and also a big Crescent wrench but as Old Guy pointed out, someone REALLY tightened the two plugs. Or over time, they have just become extremely stubborn. Also, the thought about getting the "Fill" plug out before the "Drain" plug is helpful. Now off to do some tool shopping for a "Pipe Plug Wrench."
Jeff

Jeff, I also should have mentioned that I would also apply a non-hardening thread sealer (or teflon tape) to the drain plug when you install it. Often times, there is a bit of seepage/leakage from a drain plug which sometimes warrant tightening to seal. Some get carried away as you have witnessed. A pipe plug can be tightened to a point where it will crack/break the case in the process. The sealer should allow a potential leak from occurring WITHOUT the need for excessive tightening. You DON'T want a cracked case!

Frank

[KR Convertible]

I usually look for a 12 pt socket that fits snug.  A metric size might fit best.  Below is a link to an 8 pt socket (double square) if you are patient enough to wait.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303749199673?hash=item46b8dcf739:g:N-AAAOSw6K1fnykC&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACUPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSzaVbXtmGxqmWnpn8RLN2q8%252B7ibOYMBOeEdTffezfo0017KZebGr5Mxqj4l4wkjR8%252BXpA7m0wvjhHx4revCLad0jovoYWVj%252B23P7XE0nZCbesVsHufzWjpHgzT7kft1JsLhvoCCHOf9XNtIYIbiqv1M34%252F2MJmtCmg1rtO3XIM0xoT5KFkh1whiyoxvpnut%252Bn0HxRc9OPNCPs5pONmUvCkaLzvPFL3LwWkGniLk9asmpLB%252FX6N4EJDDoACF7lxmEg6asKfR53JaFDEFOLcIkUKOFFN0%252Bvx6CT81G9gM9yNiF3%252Fsmm4Ps2nEOB7k1qrSoneIKilmgD8VcgmfVt5qYuJrAdQHXPFHPPzGqnCkKW8n0ITskPM7J5CJaIOKwc2NHPj5hqc2AUCW6N%252FPPqMn9LJHMrF64fZfraLtiJt5dYA5AHd03zf%252Fuv4X9eLUW3B%252BOn40iDSUJEwI4%252BGiSGCmiXALGQiiS6eV5ALjX4PNscY0SVcb5eOyvi%252BFbVS9hfJBEkbkQnbqNyfyAEFHXYhrWB3YqooeSjDKCT3BnnPg5B9XP5PAIRZGksUfBco9S8QmjjjZiQem9QJUnh3S6keTQQfm9nJOZdYZ8FCOikIRPtik%252BZQxDUwKOmq3d4MP2Sg5u%252B4HsrRMq4xYmOwfRc%252FUO21Q%252B2m0tVa5%252Fsgx9G80Hv1bWueK1KgMB%252FNINGZ2q1UYt1DmCRPCHss2ZdXpnFTRoT5QfHdpwGX%252Bb28n%252FAgbWyeI0%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7LS8tKkXw

[JWH]

KR - My open-end metric wrenches are the most snug fitting. I like the idea of an 8 point or 12 point socket as I am just not finding any 4 point wrenches or sockets (yet). I had not thought of that, thanks.

Frank, thanks for the advice on getting the plugs to seal up once the job is finished. The tranny is in a '66 GT350 and so definitely do not want to crack the case.

[KR Convertible]

There are a few, but they don't look all that beefy.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124964421556?hash=item1d1875bfb4:g:-5QAAOSw9exhcMxf&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACUPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSxXDXcCydCuSj2Tq2S%252F3Gnrtl78Zh7wY%252FO1I%252FMg0IMSLAxD8mTE%252BGasZOyimccBXd1fiJfpDvdGirJkI%252BvWkkDocR1TrK2RW9i10b7mbzoaCP1C%252BwjP5bkzysSojhqplfoRr38v7FVe3d0EbfS7CQVGe7fIaX55HbaIoHyrTVJk36i1ifpk0kaBAHaWuFU0LSLFOvwzsboKX61Xtjqhkhmkvac4zBHWZPZp%252Bd0CMvdoLp9JTlGTN0uZ4xkmXH1ASusqqneYPHA%252FRak8p6SxxsHUffCO%252FtolgwmBZyHlmfHCkT8jgGq%252FYpf7%252FG6XWdV78o1Bn5BZ0yRxmcDoy86STj0bfGUcH4U9xehgJZbASbH9%252FRIqMDJ%252F5tAs1sSN5twZX7BnIQS8Xe7vclsYjsUSOJNe3hZUQSmkfSbfjgUbFlsd7rtlFvkzu4lIQL%252BAjN24FejTwLvCAYVnfQFcjB8nxSYseVx0kSgNPkKODPCF5L4skpSSc9b2eWugxy6qkwRiRkgUmJYu227BlCiZ5muHQOet%252FmsgTSLw%252F8K4dFzHl7CGgHSGARnOEhQ%252FilkQZaIdg37yCRHFpHTDE1ZqIXjbOuOV02gs9ht%252FbarQFgebkrMWit0vySucEtLZ1HQ2zLCcCpxjDJ%252FtGzMTY%252F01sMGEiAaynqs4VmqM5QHvyrxy3WwRk8%252FHI5C%252BLjZWcGt82Km15yF5AXMC8QZYF%252Boq1lZdVu3NNvqTrIG0tVIvBHG4MMers%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6rS8tKkXw

[427heaven]

If it were mine I would start off with a penetrant like KROIL- KNOCK ER LOOSE or a host of wonderful penetrants. Sounds like you might be limited in the tool dept. Then I would use a 12 point IMPACT socket with an impact or rattle gun, these sockets are the BLACK case hardened variety they are readily identifiable from the standard chrome sockets. These sockets are very tough and with the rattling of the impact it will remove very stubborn rusty bolts etc. If your still not sure call up a buddy or your favorite shop im sure someone can give you a hand Good Luck!