Tail light assembly procedure?

[BeaterGT500]

Hoping for some guidance on the reassembly process here.  I have a flat panel car (683) and need to reassemble the whole car.  For the tail light setup, do I "bench build" the lights onto the fiberglass panel first, and then rivet the assembly to the car, or rivet the panel on first and assemble the lights and boxes in place?  I've seen both methods but want to do this right. Also I am using the screw-on trim rings I have, rather than the smooth tail light rings my car probably came with.

[JD]

That's a unique installation job.

There's a photo in the 2011 SAAC Registry that gives some insight to this. (will find and post)

There were variations (running changes) of the parts used so hopefully you have the parts that your car came with, that should be some help.  If the hidden stud trim rings (your originals) have their stud and the inside trunk bracket the holes for their nuts use them.

Yes, a number of ways and many details, but here's a general over-view that might help get you started.  Others will contribute their suggestions.

The two black sheet metal Shelby brackets get riveted inside the trimmed-out ford tail panel.  There is a left and right and a top and bottom, install rivets from inside the trunk.

The rest of the parts you can carefully assemble on a table/bench (there is a order) and then with a careful helper load it to the back of the car.

There needs to be strip caulk sealer around the fiberglass panel and the hole for the gas filler - which needs to be installed BEFORE this big assembly.  Probably best to use new studs that go  into the threaded bosses in the back of the Cougar tail light housings and through the trunk brackets and then the nuts.  The stud ends were cut off with bolt cutters leaving a series of sharp ends to cut up you and must of what went in the trunk.

No need to OVER TIGHTEN any of this stuff.

Sent you a PM with my phone # call and discuss if you want.

[rmarble57]

Just finished this same operation.
You can follow along how I did it in the Forum Topic "What did you do to your '67 today".  My saga starts on page 13.

You may want to consider the fuel cap venting change that I did as well.  The tip JD gave about using new studs is a good one.  I used 4 very long ones to begin with, which helped me initially "load" the built panel and lights into the trunk boxes.

No hill for a stepper.

Good luck.

[roddster]

  Clarification: You must have the flip-down gas cap/filler installed before the fiberglass taillight panel.  The base does NOT fit through the hole in the panel.

[BeaterGT500]

Thanks a ton for the detailed breakdown.  Once I get back out in the shop (dealing with back issues and freezing temps currently), I'll tackle this and call you if I need to! 

[kkupec02]

I am in the process of getting my assemblies ready also. Got new bulbs, new sockets and new wiring pig tails. Even on bench, some lights having ground problems. I cleaned paint from socket hole edges in the tail light box for the socket prongs to ground. I am going to clean up the grime from the assembly backs where the sockets touch the assembly. Thinking of some kind of metal washer to ensure ground to assembly rather than the rubber type O rings that are there now. Then will need to put in new studs in tail light assembly and nuts to black brackets. Thinking of a little bare metal under washer nuts with dialectic grease for ground to black brackets. Finally a little bare metal and grease on both part edges where rivets connect black brackets to car sheet metal. My lights never worked before and I know it was a ground issue. Any other grounding suggestions?

[Bob Gaines]

I am in the process of getting my assemblies ready also. Got new bulbs, new sockets and new wiring pig tails. Even on bench, some lights having ground problems. I cleaned paint from socket hole edges in the tail light box for the socket prongs to ground. I am going to clean up the grime from the assembly backs where the sockets touch the assembly. Thinking of some kind of metal washer to ensure ground to assembly rather than the rubber type O rings that are there now. Then will need to put in new studs in tail light assembly and nuts to black brackets. Thinking of a little bare metal under washer nuts with dialectic grease for ground to black brackets. Finally a little bare metal and grease on both part edges where rivets connect black brackets to car sheet metal. My lights never worked before and I know it was a ground issue. Any other grounding suggestions?

Since you didn't or forgot to mention it I would put the dialectic grease on bare metal socket hole before plugging bulb socket into the hole.

[kkupec02]

Thanks. I did that as well. I think my ground problems on the bench are the result of bad contact between the socket flange and the tail light assembly. They are a little too loose for me. I sent 2 new sockets back to NPD for replacement because of that. That is why I was going to try and use very thin "metal washers" for contact and to tighten up the socket prongs to the assembly. I wasn't sure if others had better tips for me.

[tonys_shelby]

I ended up buying several extra sockets and picked the ones that fit the best. It was a little strange that some would fit better than others and bending the tabs didn't seem to work right. I also agree with dielectric grease.

[roddster]

  A suggestion: On each taillight base, use the extra threads of one of the inner studs to attach a secure ground wire. Then hide the other end somewhere out of sight as best as you can.
  No, I have not done this on my Shelby but I sure did it to my tribute project.  No ground issues.