Is this an old school line locker?

[Jack4159]

This is the set up as it came off my KR, can anyone tell me what the cylinder shaped object with "HURST" written on it is? It has 2 wires coming out of it.
Also, any best method of cleaning up the distribution block? Soak it in
Thanks in advance.

[TLea]

That's exactly what it is. They're also known as roll control

[shelbymann1970]

This is the set up as it came off my KR, can anyone tell me what the cylinder shaped object with "HURST" written on it is? It has 2 wires coming out of it.
Also, any best method of cleaning up the distribution block? Soak it in
Thanks in advance.

If it was mine I'd media blast the metal portion of the block then soak it in Evaporust.

[T-Bone68]

I'd advise caution media blasting these parts.  Neither the distribution block nor the proportioning valve have a rough finish and once you media blast them it is challenging to carefully remove the texture you've created on all faces.  It is the quickest, easiest way to make them look shiny to post on eBay, but you are creating work to remove the media blast finish later.  Shelbymann70, you and others may have a refined technique, but your average joe blasts the crud out of them and makes it hard to get these back to factory look.

[corbins]

Clean em good with soap and water, disassemble, rebuild, use a brass wire brush on your drill . re clean and spray with a light coat of satin clear. Maybe no concours but it'll look nice .

[shelbymann1970]

I'd advise caution media blasting these parts.  Neither the distribution block nor the proportioning valve have a rough finish and once you media blast them it is challenging to carefully remove the texture you've created on all faces.  It is the quickest, easiest way to make them look shiny to post on eBay, but you are creating work to remove the media blast finish later.  Shelbymann70, you and others may have a refined technique, but your average joe blasts the crud out of them and makes it hard to get these back to factory look.

I have media blasted parts for years with zero issues. Prep work to protect what you need to protect. I wouldn't blast anything that wasn't metal(referring to the bracket on the junction block that was rusty-tape off the brass but my media won't harm it).  I use media now that removes rust but does NOT etch the surface. As a matter of fact not too long ago I used the same media to strip about 20 plastic lower dash pieces on a 69(corners and radio) as well as the seat side covers. No harm to the  grained plastic at all. I used a bad piece to verify I wouldn't damage them. The easy answer then to those is use evaporust or a similar product or take it to a chem stripping company.
FYI I'd take the junction block and do what I said then send out for plating. Hopefully the bracket isn't too pitted. I also have made some set pins for bleeding out the system and keeping the pressure differential switch in line so no light on after full bleeding of the brakes. The pics below show the finish on a couple of parts I did for my friend's 68.

[T-Bone68]

FYI I'd take the junction block and do what I said then send out for plating.

Interesting.  What would you plate it?

[Bob Gaines]

FYI I'd take the junction block and do what I said then send out for plating.

Interesting.  What would you plate it?

You have to un stake the brass junction block from the steel bracket that bolts to the apron. The bracket is zinc dichromate finish from the factory .

[shelbymann1970]

FYI I'd take the junction block and do what I said then send out for plating.

Interesting.  What would you plate it?

You have to un stake the brass junction block from the steel bracket that bolts to the apron. The bracket is zinc dichromate finish from the factory .

Why can't you just plate the whole assy? That is why I mentioned media blasting The bracket(steel potion) then pitting it in a product like evaporust(to get the areas where the media wouldn't) then zinc plate? I'ts no difference then doing brake hoses/lines.  The zinc getting on the brass wouldn't be an issue.

[shelbymann1970]

FYI I'd take the junction block and do what I said then send out for plating.

Interesting.  What would you plate it?

Zinc Dych. 2 years ago I did the same to 2 sets of 69 date coded front disc brake hoses. Came out good. I'm sure with our next batch of zinc Dych we send out we will have the junction box of my friend's 68 GT350 in the batch along with his front brake lines and rear end  junction hose if they are salvageable.

[Bob Gaines]

FYI I'd take the junction block and do what I said then send out for plating.

Interesting.  What would you plate it?

Zinc Dych. 2 years ago I did the same to 2 sets of 69 date coded front disc brake hoses. Came out good. I'm sure with our next batch of zinc Dych we send out we will have the junction box of my friend's 68 GT350 in the batch along with his front brake lines and rear end  junction hose if they are salvageable.

You can plate the entire assembly but the appearance of the brass will look different then original. It just depends on your expectations.

[shelbymann1970]

FYI I'd take the junction block and do what I said then send out for plating.

Interesting.  What would you plate it?

Zinc Dych. 2 years ago I did the same to 2 sets of 69 date coded front disc brake hoses. Came out good. I'm sure with our next batch of zinc Dych we send out we will have the junction box of my friend's 68 GT350 in the batch along with his front brake lines and rear end  junction hose if they are salvageable.

You can plate the entire assembly but the appearance of the brass will look different then original. It just depends on your expectations.

100 percent right on that, Bob. The next step is to remove the zinc from the brass. There are a few ways to do it so it up to whether you want to disassemble and re-crimp or remove the zinc off of the finished product. My next step when we do the parts for the 68 is to ask the plater is there a way to protect the junction  block  when plating. What can cover it that isn't affected by the plating process if possible.

[Bob Gaines]

FYI I'd take the junction block and do what I said then send out for plating.

Interesting.  What would you plate it?

Zinc Dych. 2 years ago I did the same to 2 sets of 69 date coded front disc brake hoses. Came out good. I'm sure with our next batch of zinc Dych we send out we will have the junction box of my friend's 68 GT350 in the batch along with his front brake lines and rear end  junction hose if they are salvageable.

You can plate the entire assembly but the appearance of the brass will look different then original. It just depends on your expectations.

100 percent right on that, Bob. The next step is to remove the zinc from the brass. There are a few ways to do it so it up to whether you want to disassemble and re-crimp or remove the zinc off of the finished product. My next step when we do the parts for the 68 is to ask the plater is there a way to protect the junction  block  when plating. What can cover it that isn't affected by the plating process if possible.

Gary, first you get the yellow chromate off first and then under that is the silver zinc. The zinc is typically thicker and will be difficult to remove without messing up the finish of the bracket if attached. At the end of the day you will spend way more time trying get the zinc off without ruining the finish on the bracket. The same goes if you try and mask off prior to plating and hopefully be successful then the short amount of time it takes to unstake and later restake the brass to the bracket . I would ether plate the entire thing and live with the look (which will look fine to most) or separate the brass block from the bracket and plate separately . It depends on your expectations.  You of course do what you think best and I wish you success.

[Jack4159]

Thanks gents, great info as always.
Car is coming home next week , I am making space in the shed.
This is starting to get exciting....

[shelbymann1970]

Thanks Bob, it will be a work in progress. Always learning. My brake lines it has the coating on the brass finishes but not all of them(could be how they were dipped?). i'll be experimenting on a few ways to get the finish off when ever I get time. The plater we used I don't like his quality so I'm switching platers for the next batch. I will also try and take the parts and see if I can separate them.