Follow up on getting a GT500

[J_Joseph]

Here's a few pictures of the GT500 I'm putting back together.  The original thread (my first) is https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=20212.0

Sorry for being out of touch, a house full of COVID and travel took all my time.

Please let me know what else you'd like to see!

[J_Joseph]

I can upload only four images at time.

[Coralsnake]

You have a good head start. Tell us what look you are going for?

The factory painted the outside of the fender aprons black

[J_Joseph]

I think we will reassemble it for sale, and the "look" will be that we want it to be as authentic as I can make it without getting into concours territory.  It's up in the air, honestly.

And do you mean the area indicated by the green arrow was painted black at the factory?

Thank you !

[Coralsnake]

Yes

That entire area forward and rearward of the wheels

[J_Joseph]

Yes

That entire area forward and rearward of the wheels

Thank you!

[TOBKOB]

I would check out this article before I started painting anything...

https://concoursmustang.com/speegle/Articles/69/69%20Dearborn%20Under10-2017v12.pdf 

There are some really good articles here and even if you aren't going the full concours route a lot of things are as easy to do right as wrong...

https://www.concoursmustang.com/

TOB

[J_Speegle]

I think we will reassemble it for sale, and the "look" will be that we want it to be as authentic as I can make it without getting into concours territory.  It's up in the air, honestly.

And do you mean the area indicated by the green arrow was painted black at the factory?

That are from the radiator support to the firewall surface was typically for most of the year a mix of three colors/paints. The body color from painting the body (visible sections after assembly) the base red oxide epoxy primer that would match the bottom of the front frame rails - firewall forward and black from the painter who painted the engine compartment and radiator support. On rarely found examples you can find a painter who applied body color all the way forward but he was wasting time and product/paint/$$$$s so the body color often extended forward to the shock tower insert area. The guy who painted the engine compartment black would have applied paint to the top lip of the engine compartment and the radiator support which would have produced overspray (last paint step) on to the lower and those directly behind the radiator support panels in the wheel well. Often, he would extend the black rearward to or short of the front edge of the shock tower insert. Any or all of these general stopping points could move forward or rearward depending on the day, worker and other reasons.  As mentioned there are extremes but if you haven't documented them on the specific car your building would suggest that you don't reproduce those patterns but stick with what was typically done. Have plenty of pictures of this area from unrestored cars if that would help 

To help with that we would need to know when the car was build at Dearborn. This date is available from Kevin Marti in one of his reports. Projected/guess upon date from the door tag, build sheet or other places on the car will not help.


Understand that your not going "concours" but you have to refinish that area anyway so might as well try to replicate the factory finish since you will not be coming back to correct it later, if you change your mind.  Other items that bolt on an off can be corrected with a lot more ease if you change you mind later or choose to sell the car. But if your doing an all out modified or altered car anything goes

Good luck with your choices



The following are not specific for you cars production period but wanted to post some examples that shows some of the three color combinations I often find










NOTE to others readingn this. different factories had different practices so the above information is not meant for 65-67 or 68 Shelbys 

Hope this helps

[shelbymann1970]

Not to be picky but those window stop bolts on your door should be  clear/silver plated and NOT painted. That is a pet peeve on "done" 69 and 70 Mustangs. Great start on your resto. When was your car built as it would determine your upper firewall color.
last 2 pics below are an April built original Boss 429.

[Coralsnake]

I appreciate everyone's efforts to help the new member. Keep in mind his experience level is self admittedly low and he is not going for a perfect car.

Just my opinion: overwhelming him with details and flooding the zone with examples may not be in his best interests.

As Mr. Gaines would say, I am sure others might feel differently.

[shelbymann1970]

Pete, I went for a "more perfect" car when I did my car which I finished 20 years ago. I painted my outer aprons red and my under carriage all red. I didn't want it factory since a sprayer was clogged when my car went down the line and didn't want a large area to be bare metal. I cleared in the hood stripes also. These things can be "fixed" relatively easy by me other than removing sound deadener on the outer aprons(I swear it was there from factory but can't prove it now  ). 

[J_Joseph]

I would check out this article before I started painting anything...

https://concoursmustang.com/speegle/Articles/69/69%20Dearborn%20Under10-2017v12.pdf 

TOB

That's really amazing information, thank you.

[J_Joseph]

To help with that we would need to know when the car was build at Dearborn. This date is available from Kevin Marti in one of his reports. Projected/guess upon date from the door tag, build sheet or other places on the car will not help.


Understand that your not going "concours" but you have to refinish that area anyway so might as well try to replicate the factory finish since you will not be coming back to correct it later, if you change your mind.  Other items that bolt on an off can be corrected with a lot more ease if you change you mind later or choose to sell the car. But if your doing an all out modified or altered car anything goes

Good luck with your choices

Hope this helps

You make good points.  I'm currently trying to figure out what steps to take - I know there are restoration guides for these cars, but I'm not sure how to evaluate their quality.  Information like you provided is great, thank you.

The car is in an odd spot actually from what I can tell.  The majority of the body has been restored and is in excellent condition.  Then there are bare spots (rear fender wells, driver's footwell) and the floor was not restored.  Upper control arms are new, lowers are untouched original.  Why not do both while you're at it?  Some motor components are dirty and flaky, others are pristine.

It's a little confusing.

[Coralsnake]

I would be very concerned if I were you. Get someone with some experience to help you

[Bob Gaines]

To help with that we would need to know when the car was build at Dearborn. This date is available from Kevin Marti in one of his reports. Projected/guess upon date from the door tag, build sheet or other places on the car will not help.


Understand that your not going "concours" but you have to refinish that area anyway so might as well try to replicate the factory finish since you will not be coming back to correct it later, if you change your mind.  Other items that bolt on an off can be corrected with a lot more ease if you change you mind later or choose to sell the car. But if your doing an all out modified or altered car anything goes

Good luck with your choices

Hope this helps

You make good points.  I'm currently trying to figure out what steps to take - I know there are restoration guides for these cars, but I'm not sure how to evaluate their quality.  Information like you provided is great, thank you.

The car is in an odd spot actually from what I can tell.  The majority of the body has been restored and is in excellent condition.  Then there are bare spots (rear fender wells, driver's footwell) and the floor was not restored.  Upper control arms are new, lowers are untouched original.  Why not do both while you're at it? Some motor components are dirty and flaky, others are pristine.

It's a little confusing.

I can't speak to the other areas you are puzzled about but can offer a explanation on the lower control arms . The upper control arm is what takes all the wear. The upper ball joint and or the inner shaft wears out frequently. The lower ball joint seldom wears out other then the ball joint protective boot getting  torn or the rubber bushing deteriorating . Sometimes restorers do not replace the lowers because the ball joint is still good. Consequently it is not odd that the lower was not replaced only that it was not cosmetically restored to match the other restored components. If not all other front suspension components are restored cosmetic or otherwise it my not be odd at all.