Suggestions on a reputable stroker crate motor builder.

[Krelboyne]

So this looks like a NOS Hipo pump with the 6 vanes???

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353450789542?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1A9IcV9JbSma5yfa4O_MrdQ81&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=353450789542&targetid=4580153136941811&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225722&mkgroupid=1224856224320848&rlsatarget=pla-4580153136941811&abcId=9300906&merchantid=51291&msclkid=05dddbabf5e014e099c1b825f9f3876c

Maybe a better example since it is an actual ford part??

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203996319573?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=203996319573&targetid=4580359295528871&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225724&mkgroupid=1228154759183859&rlsatarget=pla-4580359295528871&abcId=9300907&merchantid=51291&msclkid=b083bafaec3a15703156d974e029463b

It depends on if you care that it is not exactly like a asssemblyine part or not. C5-D is a Ford service replacement not used until after 1965 production was over.

The C5-D core water pump is my listing if anyone is interested.

[gt350bp]

The one picture of the fully degreed balancer was a real deal balancer that I was going to use. The Ford Racing balancer is what I ended up using on my replica, as the fully degreed balancer went on an original car. I painted the Ford Racing balancer black and felt that option was better for my 327 stroker.

The rubber plugs for the aluminum water pump came from a local auto parts store. They are decorative, as the aluminum pump was tapped for plugs and sealed. Did not want to depend on the rubber plugs.

Don
gt350bp

[Bob Gaines]

The one picture of the fully degreed balancer was a real deal balancer that I was going to use. The Ford Racing balancer is what I ended up using on my replica, as the fully degreed balancer went on an original car. I painted the Ford Racing balancer black and felt that option was better for my 327 stroker.

The rubber plugs for the aluminum water pump came from a local auto parts store. They are decorative, as the aluminum pump was tapped for plugs and sealed. Did not want to depend on the rubber plugs.

Don
gt350bp

Yes tap and thread some Allen plugs in the heater hose nipples for extra insurance. Been there done that. The auto parts store section with the hang card blister packs that are red and marked "Help" will have the rubber caps that you will need to complete the vintage R model heater delete look. 

[TA Coupe]

Just keep an eye on the rubber caps as they tend to crack and leak after a period of time.

           Roy

[Bob Gaines]

Just keep an eye on the rubber caps as they tend to crack and leak after a period of time.

           Roy

In my case there is no water leakage. The rubber plugs are just for vintage looks covering after taping and plugging the heater hose tubes on the water pump to eliminate water leaking. The same goes for the heater hose fitting on the intake. Although the rubber may crack with age it should not leak water.

[gt350bp]

Exactly! Don't depend on the rubber caps for the seal.

Don
gt350bp

[pbf777]

     Just to clarify:

     Edelbrock pump #8841 (satin), #8846 (polished), #88413 (black painted), & #88414 (Endura-Shine) are pumps designed to fit the '65-'69 timing covers, right-hand inlet, "WITH BACK-PLATE.

     Edelbrock pump #8842 (satin), & #8847 (polished) are pumps designed to fit the earlier timing covers, right-hand inlet, "WITHOUT BACK-PLATE" (those timing covers with oil-fill, breather tubes or plugged orifice for such present)   

     I'm not so sure that these pumps actually pump more "efficiently", whether that be by actual flow volume or through potential pressure production, that over the standard O.E.M. units, as though I haven't actually performed flow test comparisons, but after all, they seem to exhibit the standard stamped steel impellers and as referenced previously, Ford Motor Co. intentionally reduced the pumping capability of the standard passenger car units with fewer impeller blades in certain applications; those where they anticipated they'd be turning faster anyway.   

     We utilized the O.E.M. die-cast aluminum housing pumps in some of our endurance racing applications as they do present the lightest weight of any, but this housing did periodically exhibit failures of the nose section extension of cracking/fracturing or expanding/wallowing out of the bearing bore and losing retention of the shaft bearings.   

     We did convert these applications over to aftermarket pumps (Weiand or Edelbrock) if only for the heavier castings which solved the issue of housing failures, but really did not realize any significant differences in pumping function.     Same with the use of the cast impellers vs the stamped steel units. though I prefer the cast units for durability, but if one doesn't over-speed/over-pressurize with stamped pieces then there generally isn't any problem with them.   

     Scott.

     

[1109RWHP]

Early 289 Edelbrock pump on an early 289 timing cover on a replica T/A Boss 302. NOTE: it does not say Edelbrock on the pump because I removed it.

Yes that is a Edelbrock pump designed to replace the early style Ford aluminum water pump but it is a on a 1964 260/289 style timing cover which seems odd to use that timing cover on a replica 69 or 70 TA Boss 302 engine. That is a odd timing cover that doesn't look like factory one . Not a problem if you like it . Is it some kind of aftermarket timing cover?

It is an NOS Ford cover.

[mlplunkett]

The one picture of the fully degreed balancer was a real deal balancer that I was going to use. The Ford Racing balancer is what I ended up using on my replica, as the fully degreed balancer went on an original car. I painted the Ford Racing balancer black and felt that option was better for my 327 stroker.
Don
gt350bp

You wouldn't have a part number for the look-alike balancer would you?

[gt350bp]

The balancer I used was the Ford Racing M-6316-C351. Make sure you check with your engine builder on the stroker kit balance requirements.

Don
gt350bp

[mlplunkett]

The balancer I used was the Ford Racing M-6316-C351. Make sure you check with your engine builder on the stroker kit balance requirements.

Don
gt350bp

Just found that Cobra Automotive sells a replica Hipo balancer for similar cost to the Ford racing item. Would that make it the front runner for a tribute assuming the motor builder says it's a fit for the build?
https://store.cobraautomotive.com/289-ford-hi-po-harmonic-balancer/

Shelby Parts Store also has the item
https://shelbypartsstore.com/?product=hipo-hbal

[Bob Gaines]

The balancer I used was the Ford Racing M-6316-C351. Make sure you check with your engine builder on the stroker kit balance requirements.

Don
gt350bp

Just found that Cobra Automotive sells a replica Hipo balancer for similar cost to the Ford racing item. Would that make it the front runner for a tribute assuming the motor builder says it's a fit for the build?
https://store.cobraautomotive.com/289-ford-hi-po-harmonic-balancer/

Shelby Parts Store also has the item
https://shelbypartsstore.com/?product=hipo-hbal

It depends on what your expectations are. The Cobra Automotive repro is meant to be no better or no worse then a original Hipo balancer . If you are wanting to get maximum RPM and performance out of a modified engine then the Ford Racing balancer has the edge.