Coil spring compressor

[Peter L.]

 Getting ready to put the coil springs in my KR. I have the old 'hook' type unit but was looking at one offered by NPD that bolts in place of the shock. Has anyone used this type of spring compressor, or heard any good/bad feedback.
  It sure looks much safer than the old hook type.
I like the fact that it bolts in on both the top and bottom.
              Thanks, Pete.

[Peter L.]

 This type.

[WT6066-2600]

Had a spring come loose when using a compressor that attached to spring coils, not fun.

Bought one of these and used several times and IMO much safer.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264306294293?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=264306294293&targetid=1645685075248&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9053084&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685075248&abcId=9300841&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAiAwc-dBhA7EiwAxPRylET3XSIqxt7SslmiR-2gzfLIWDapdR8Werm2Mlph-_TSqa93QUW1-hoCQrYQAvD_BwE

[Peter L.]

  Ouch! Hope you weren't injured. So, does the top plate bolt to the top of the shock tower, or to the upper shock mount?

[WT6066-2600]

Check the link, there are pictures

[WT6066-2600]

Spring Compressor Instructions
·       PLEASE READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETLY BEFORE STARTING TO USE THIS TOOL.
·       THIS TOOL WILL NOT WORK ON '62-'65 FAIRLANES.
·       USE TOOL AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOLLOWED, THIS IS A VERY SAFE SPRING COMPRESSION TO USE.
·       You can refer to the Ebay auction where this tool was purchased for a set of instructions with pictures.
·       Please lubricate the threaded rod and nut with WHITE LITHIUM GREASE, NOT WD-40!!!
·       The flat plate is for Mustang and Cougar applications only.
·       One stud on the tool is slightly longer than the other to aid in reaching the spring perch holes if the perch is at an angle.
·       The flat plate is drilled for early ('64-'66) and late ('67-'70) Mustang bolt patterns, it is not mis-drilled.
·       YOUR UPPER SHOCK MOUNT HAS TO BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH THIS TOOL. THE SHOCK MOUNT HAS TO BOLT BACK ON TOP OF THE SHOCK TOWER. DO NOT TRY TO USE THIS TOOL WITHOUT THE SHOCK MOUNT IN PLACE.

1. After safely supporting the vehicle on jackstands, remove the front shocks.
2. Slide spring compressor down through the shock tower (threaded rod portion up) and attach it to the lower spring seat just as you would the lower part of the shock.  Install the flat washers on the studs before the nuts, so they will not pull through the spring seat. You can now re-install the stock upper shock mount and bolt it to the shock tower using the original hardware.
3. If you are working on a vehicle that uses a stud on the upper portion of the shock, you can omit this next step and simply install the large washer and nut over YOUR STOCK SHOCK MOUNT.  For Mustangs/Cougars that use two bolts to attach the upper part of the shock, slide the flat plate over the threaded rod and bolt it to YOUR STOCK SHOCK MOUNT  with the original shock hardware.  Install the washer and nut on the rod and tighten until the nut touches the washer.  (lubricate the nut and washer with motor oil for easier turning)
**If you opted for the thrust bearing option, it installs on top of the flat plate (Mustang, Cougar Maverick) or on the stock shock mount (Falcons, Novas, Fairlanes, Comets, Rancheros) at this step:
4. Begin turning the nut clockwise.  As the nut turns, it will begin to draw the spring up towards the top of the shock tower.  You only need to compress the spring enough to be able to unbolt the lower spring seat from the control arm.  DO NOT ATTEMPT TO COMPERSS THE SPRING COMPLETELY!!!
5. With the spring compressed approximately 3-4 inches, you can now unbolt the spring seat from the A arm.  You will now need to remove and the A arm retaining nuts from inside the engine compartment.  You do not need to remove the A-arm from the spindle as you can rotate it out of the way.  If you are having trouble removing the A arm, the spring may need to be compressed slightly more.
6. Once the A arm is removed, you can now slowly release the tension on the spring by loosening the 5/8" nut.  Reassembly is the exact opposite.
-I can be reached at [phone removed by eBay] for help.  Tom
·       Usage Tips:
·       When re-installing the spring, align the studs on the spring seat parallel to the frame rails to make installation on the A arm easier
·       On reassembly, when the A arm is re-installed on the car, leave the studs loose on the shock tower to allow some movement when trying to align to the spring seat.
·       A few steps can be saved on removal by using the vehicles weight to compress the spring.  Remove the shock, install the compressor, and tighten the nut until it contacts the flat plate or shock mount. The vehicle can then be jacked up and placed on jackstands. The spring will already be compressed as you used the vehicle weight to do the job for you.  The other steps of removing the A arm can now be followed.

[Peter L.]

  Thanks! That's what I was looking for.

[Bob Gaines]

Spring Compressor Instructions
·       PLEASE READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETLY BEFORE STARTING TO USE THIS TOOL.
·       THIS TOOL WILL NOT WORK ON '62-'65 FAIRLANES.
·       USE TOOL AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOLLOWED, THIS IS A VERY SAFE SPRING COMPRESSION TO USE.
·       You can refer to the Ebay auction where this tool was purchased for a set of instructions with pictures.
·       Please lubricate the threaded rod and nut with WHITE LITHIUM GREASE, NOT WD-40!!!
·       The flat plate is for Mustang and Cougar applications only.
·       One stud on the tool is slightly longer than the other to aid in reaching the spring perch holes if the perch is at an angle.
·       The flat plate is drilled for early ('64-'66) and late ('67-'70) Mustang bolt patterns, it is not mis-drilled.
·       YOUR UPPER SHOCK MOUNT HAS TO BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH THIS TOOL. THE SHOCK MOUNT HAS TO BOLT BACK ON TOP OF THE SHOCK TOWER. DO NOT TRY TO USE THIS TOOL WITHOUT THE SHOCK MOUNT IN PLACE.

1. After safely supporting the vehicle on jackstands, remove the front shocks.
2. Slide spring compressor down through the shock tower (threaded rod portion up) and attach it to the lower spring seat just as you would the lower part of the shock.  Install the flat washers on the studs before the nuts, so they will not pull through the spring seat. You can now re-install the stock upper shock mount and bolt it to the shock tower using the original hardware.
3. If you are working on a vehicle that uses a stud on the upper portion of the shock, you can omit this next step and simply install the large washer and nut over YOUR STOCK SHOCK MOUNT.  For Mustangs/Cougars that use two bolts to attach the upper part of the shock, slide the flat plate over the threaded rod and bolt it to YOUR STOCK SHOCK MOUNT  with the original shock hardware. Install the washer and nut on the rod and tighten until the nut touches the washer.  (lubricate the nut and washer with motor oil for easier turning)
**If you opted for the thrust bearing option, it installs on top of the flat plate (Mustang, Cougar Maverick) or on the stock shock mount (Falcons, Novas, Fairlanes, Comets, Rancheros) at this step:
4. Begin turning the nut clockwise.  As the nut turns, it will begin to draw the spring up towards the top of the shock tower.  You only need to compress the spring enough to be able to unbolt the lower spring seat from the control arm.  DO NOT ATTEMPT TO COMPERSS THE SPRING COMPLETELY!!!
5. With the spring compressed approximately 3-4 inches, you can now unbolt the spring seat from the A arm.  You will now need to remove and the A arm retaining nuts from inside the engine compartment.  You do not need to remove the A-arm from the spindle as you can rotate it out of the way.  If you are having trouble removing the A arm, the spring may need to be compressed slightly more.
6. Once the A arm is removed, you can now slowly release the tension on the spring by loosening the 5/8" nut.  Reassembly is the exact opposite.
-I can be reached at [phone removed by eBay] for help.  Tom
·       Usage Tips:
·       When re-installing the spring, align the studs on the spring seat parallel to the frame rails to make installation on the A arm easier
·       On reassembly, when the A arm is re-installed on the car, leave the studs loose on the shock tower to allow some movement when trying to align to the spring seat.
·       A few steps can be saved on removal by using the vehicles weight to compress the spring.  Remove the shock, install the compressor, and tighten the nut until it contacts the flat plate or shock mount. The vehicle can then be jacked up and placed on jackstands. The spring will already be compressed as you used the vehicle weight to do the job for you.  The other steps of removing the A arm can now be followed.

I have used a tool like this for decades. I would suggest using regular hardware store nuts when using the tool because the locking nuts of the original hardware (especially 67-70) are not meant to go on and off a lot of times or they will lose some or all of their locking ability. Also the wear on the nuts can become evident like rounded edges etc. that you may not want visible on a restored car. After installing the upper shock mount for the last time with the shock attached to it is when it is best to install the original hardware to minimize damage and wear to the factory fasteners.

[Peter L.]

  Thanks for the advice, as I am using the original hardware.

[roddster]

  You can also follow the instructions for this spring compressor in a Tony D Branda catalog.  I made one a year or so back.  Materials cost less than $30.00.  You just need an old shock and access to a welder.

[Royce Peterson]

This type.

I bought one of these from Summit. Free shipping and a lower price. Have used it several times. It makes me happy.

[Shelbypat]

I am used to using this good old school Rotunda tool from Ford.

Patrick

[Blackcar]

Good post.  https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=20845.msg131507#msg131507