Headers for GT500

[67GT500#1594]

NO Aluminum Ford heads!!! My heads are iron. My intake has a "XE" part number. It also has another hand scribed XE part number on it too with "$16". From the FE forum the $16 refers to creating matched sets between the intakes and heads. I met a guy that had one $16 head and one $14 head and wanted my intake. These intakes are extremely rare and hard to obtain. Basically two motors for every J car made. Crazy!

Inconel headers have been NASCAR standards for over a decade now. Still pricey but sure are nice and strong. If I can get some custom headers that fit well and are easier to install, then stainless isn't really an option too. I'll probably have my local guy make a set, then make a jig, make a set off the jig, test fit them to my 67 coupe, and repeat. He builds beautiful headers too he just needs the set up to get started.

I think you're thinking of beryllium Valve seats. Those are crazy expensive and work really nice on race motors. I had all new seats, guides and seals installed. But not beryllium. The builder wanted new valves as well.

If I could get pics posted I'd do it but only have an IPad and can't figure out the process. Any help!!

This motor won't ever see high RPM's like back in the day. That was the only way to get them to run. With 496CI, with a standard bore, I think we've got the cubes covered. It should be able to breath just fine now. 

[shelbydoug]

Unfortunately the aluminum Ford heads are only good for display. They are very pretty and as such are VERY seductive.

They even leak oil through the drainback holes in the corners.

The castings must be so thin that when you torque the heads down, the head must flex enough not to compress the gasket to seal?

I'm wondering if the secret is to use dead soft copper for a head gasket so it squashes like silly putty?



Of all the engines to have issues with, an FE in a Mustang, they are truly a story of education by hard knocks.

I have no idea how they were ever raced. The reality is that they are total trash. You have to see it to believe it. No one believes it when I tell them. They just shrug it off as another one of my delusions?



Incidentally, when I asked Diamond for a receipt, he said "why, they're only worth $.23 a pound"(and they are light). He was using BB Chevy Pro Stock heads to hold the doors open so he wasn't impressed by Ford racing trash.



I think that I am wrong about the compression ratio. I think they have to be kept under 10:1? Not 10.3. Otherwise you collapse the chambers.

I don't know any of the previous owners of the SS. I'm wondering if they had the same experiences? The C6 is the improved head over the C5. The mind boggles.



In my own defense on those heads though at the time much of this was all proprietary information. Even the cold lash settings of closing down the valve clearances by .006", because the head expands when the engine warms up was not readily available information then. Race teams deemed this all as closely held secrets and "you" were the opposition.

NOBODY was talking. The Pro Stock guys won't even tell you what RPM  they come off the line at.


Simplify your life now. Use Edelbrocks. They flow better then the originals ever did and they won't break by bolting them on.

[PR]

I have used both, hooker and FPA, I would never buy a set of hookers for a FE mustang again, only issue installing fpa was clutch linkage frame and block mount 1/4" up, spacer plate at frame and modified block mount, all worked great, if your not drag racing,you will not loose that much hp ,and they don't drag on the ground

[427heaven]

Well we all have experienced different things like header fitment issues. I like the Hooker super comps so much I am going to install a third set on my 68 cj gt vert 4 gear. I am not too good at posting pics but they fit nicely nary a foul word uttered upon installation.

[shelbydoug]

"I have used both, hooker and FPA, I would never buy a set of hookers for a FE mustang again, only issue installing fpa was clutch linkage frame and block mount 1/4" up, spacer plate at frame and modified block mount, all worked great, if your not drag racing,you will not loose that much hp ,and they don't drag on the ground."



Say "Hi" to Stan for me. I want to hear him slam the phone down on you too? 


I've noticed that depending on where you are, the height of the ground can vary?

After a while, the pain, any pain becomes normalized. 

I never liked the way the stock H pipe hangs low, then curves up. The location of the collectors on the Hookers is similar but a bit more exaggerated. They only appear to be low because of the angle which is downward rather then horizontal or upward like the original h-pipe.

Each of these manufacturers have a slightly different purpose in mind when making these kind of decisions.



There are many purchasers that will make small modifications to those designs. Taking a hammer and dinging a tube here or there for a slight clearancing, etc. The location of collectors on the Hookers lend themselves well to being cut, angled up and rewelded. The design has been made for years and there are hundreds if not thousands of sets sold since probably just after the US Civil War?

The procedure is called "fitting the headers". Remember that term. It's been used before many times. It's doubtful that the term will go obsolete anytime soon?

It can be a necessary procedure on any headers. That's the reality.

If any of this is too abstract and requires too much thought process and effort, don't do any headers, stay in bed, turn out the lights and pull the covers over your head. You are a big boy now and you need to put on your big boy pants and come out in the light. 

No where in the real world is anyone going to serve you on a silver platter except maybe your Mama? Certainly header manufacturers won't, never will and never have.

You are modifying the car with headers and there is rarely a true bolt on. It can happen, but rarely. 

There is just no other way to say it, installing headers in an FE powered Mustang is one of THE most difficult things anyone can do. If this scares people away...so be it. I don't want to hear, "you guys should have told me first, rather than sugar coat it." This is not for a novice to do. 



Jay Bittle still owns a '67 GT500. When he started his header company in the '70s he was quoted as saying "I'm going to make the ultimate GT500 header". What JBA now sells IS NOT THAT HEADER.

Tri-y's on an FE are to make it easier to make them. NOT for performance. You do not need more torque in even a 390.

I still call over there once in a while and ask when they are going to be ready. Still...not yet? Needs more time?

If he ever got that done, he ain't sayin'.


Hey Jay? What's up? 

[dabigpud]

Wow!

Love the responses. Wasn't expecting to see so many responses to my topic!

Ironically enough, I was able to find a guy locally who happened to be selling a set of unused ceramic coated Hooker Super Comps. Picked them up yesterday and plan to install tomorrow. We will see how they go.

Ryan

[shelbydoug]

Wow!

Love the responses. Wasn't expecting to see so many responses to my topic!

Ironically enough, I was able to find a guy locally who happened to be selling a set of unused ceramic coated Hooker Super Comps. Picked them up yesterday and plan to install tomorrow. We will see how they go.

Ryan

Good find. Best of luck. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

[Bob Gaines]

Wow!

Love the responses. Wasn't expecting to see so many responses to my topic!

Ironically enough, I was able to find a guy locally who happened to be selling a set of unused ceramic coated Hooker Super Comps. Picked them up yesterday and plan to install tomorrow. We will see how they go.

Ryan

It is about a 8 hour job . If you can do it faster I'll the better. don't forget the ps drop bracket . FYI you need to reinforce the drop bracket. The leverage is significant. they will often pull the nut zerts right out of the frame. Many end up welding them permanent and they still will break at the base. Best of luck. 

[dabigpud]

Wow!

Love the responses. Wasn't expecting to see so many responses to my topic!

Ironically enough, I was able to find a guy locally who happened to be selling a set of unused ceramic coated Hooker Super Comps. Picked them up yesterday and plan to install tomorrow. We will see how they go.

Ryan

It is about a 8 hour job . If you can do it faster I'll the better. don't forget the ps drop bracket . FYI you need to reinforce the drop bracket. The leverage is significant. they will often pull the nut zerts right out of the frame. Many end up welding them permanent and they still will break at the base. Best of luck.

Bob,

Thank you! Just ordered the Hooker brand P/S bracket from Jegs. Should be in by tomorrow. My Father in Law and I look forward to the challenge!

Ryan

[557]

"I have used both, hooker and FPA, I would never buy a set of hookers for a FE mustang again, only issue installing fpa was clutch linkage frame and block mount 1/4" up, spacer plate at frame and modified block mount, all worked great, if your not drag racing,you will not loose that much hp ,and they don't drag on the ground."



Say "Hi" to Stan for me. I want to hear him slam the phone down on you too? 


I've noticed that depending on where you are, the height of the ground can vary?

After a while, the pain, any pain becomes normalized. 

I never liked the way the stock H pipe hangs low, then curves up. The location of the collectors on the Hookers is similar but a bit more exaggerated. They only appear to be low because of the angle which is downward rather then horizontal or upward like the original h-pipe.

Each of these manufacturers have a slightly different purpose in mind when making these kind of decisions.



There are many purchasers that will make small modifications to those designs. Taking a hammer and dinging a tube here or there for a slight clearancing, etc. The location of collectors on the Hookers lend themselves well to being cut, angled up and rewelded. The design has been made for years and there are hundreds if not thousands of sets sold since probably just after the US Civil War?

The procedure is called "fitting the headers". Remember that term. It's been used before many times. It's doubtful that the term will go obsolete anytime soon?

It can be a necessary procedure on any headers. That's the reality.

If any of this is too abstract and requires too much thought process and effort, don't do any headers, stay in bed, turn out the lights and pull the covers over your head. You are a big boy now and you need to put on your big boy pants and come out in the light. 

No where in the real world is anyone going to serve you on a silver platter except maybe your Mama? Certainly header manufacturers won't, never will and never have.

You are modifying the car with headers and there is rarely a true bolt on. It can happen, but rarely. 

There is just no other way to say it, installing headers in an FE powered Mustang is one of THE most difficult things anyone can do. If this scares people away...so be it. I don't want to hear, "you guys should have told me first, rather than sugar coat it." This is not for a novice to do. 



Jay Bittle still owns a '67 GT500. When he started his header company in the '70s he was quoted as saying "I'm going to make the ultimate GT500 header". What JBA now sells IS NOT THAT HEADER.

Tri-y's on an FE are to make it easier to make them. NOT for performance. You do not need more torque in even a 390.

I still call over there once in a while and ask when they are going to be ready. Still...not yet? Needs more time?

If he ever got that done, he ain't sayin'.


Hey Jay? What's up?  .           Bittles car still got the 427 tunnelport in it???

[427heaven]

Wow!

Love the responses. Wasn't expecting to see so many responses to my topic!

Ironically enough, I was able to find a guy locally who happened to be selling a set of unused ceramic coated Hooker Super Comps. Picked them up yesterday and plan to install tomorrow. We will see how they go.

Ryan

It is about a 8 hour job . If you can do it faster I'll the better. don't forget the ps drop bracket . FYI you need to reinforce the drop bracket. The leverage is significant. they will often pull the nut zerts right out of the frame. Many end up welding them permanent and they still will break at the base. Best of luck.

Bob,

Thank you! Just ordered the Hooker brand P/S bracket from Jegs. Should be in by tomorrow. My Father in Law and I look forward to the challenge!

Ryan

You can do it... There will be real world help here for those asking. Im on my third set together great things can happen.

[shelbydoug]

       Bittles car still got the 427 tunnelport in it???

[/quote]

Unknown.

[shelbydoug]

Wow!

Love the responses. Wasn't expecting to see so many responses to my topic!

Ironically enough, I was able to find a guy locally who happened to be selling a set of unused ceramic coated Hooker Super Comps. Picked them up yesterday and plan to install tomorrow. We will see how they go.

Ryan

It is about a 8 hour job . If you can do it faster I'll the better. don't forget the ps drop bracket . FYI you need to reinforce the drop bracket. The leverage is significant. they will often pull the nut zerts right out of the frame. Many end up welding them permanent and they still will break at the base. Best of luck.

I'd recommending putting a flange nut inside of the chassis on those bolts and not welding the bracket. That will give you the option of returning the car to stock easier.

When you are done with these headers, even if you are a novice now, you won't be when they are done.

They will work well if you replace the stock exhaust system with individual Flow Masters sitting in the floor pan indentations and using 2-1/2" tubing. The only restriction left in the system would be the Shelby exhaust tips because they are necked down.

[67gt500]

In the last while, I have helped my friend put Hookers on his 68 Mustang 390 auto car, and we were able to bolt the drivers side on while the engine was out. Then sit the right side in the car and then slip the engine in. Once we had in most of the way there, we were able to pull the header up and bolt it or.. I have also just done that the same way with FPA headers on my 67GT500 4 speed car.. Hope that is of some help..

[Bob Gaines]

Wow!

Love the responses. Wasn't expecting to see so many responses to my topic!

Ironically enough, I was able to find a guy locally who happened to be selling a set of unused ceramic coated Hooker Super Comps. Picked them up yesterday and plan to install tomorrow. We will see how they go.

Ryan

It is about a 8 hour job . If you can do it faster I'll the better. don't forget the ps drop bracket . FYI you need to reinforce the drop bracket. The leverage is significant. they will often pull the nut zerts right out of the frame. Many end up welding them permanent and they still will break at the base. Best of luck.

I'd recommending putting a flange nut inside of the chassis on those bolts and not welding the bracket. That will give you the option of returning the car to stock easier.

When you are done with these headers, even if you are a novice now, you won't be when they are done.

They will work well if you replace the stock exhaust system with individual Flow Masters sitting in the floor pan indentations and using 2-1/2" tubing. The only restriction left in the system would be the Shelby exhaust tips because they are necked down.

On one of my cars I made up a tip out of 3 inch tube and had one end squeezed down to fit over the 2 1/2 exhaust and the other end cut at a angle to mimic the stock tip. I had it chromed and it looks pretty stealth.