1967 Shelby GT500 - Taillight Panel

[Mustang500]

Hi All,

Looking for help.  My fiberglass taillight panel top edge is sinking toward the top center of each taillight housing.  The curvature is very noticeable in the attached photo.  We're looking to replace it, but are not sure how to prevent this from occurring again.  We appreciate any thoughts on prevention and what type of replacement panel to get.  I've seen just the taillight panel and one with integrated light housings (much more expensive).

Appreciate any help.  Thank you.

Respectfully,

Jeff

[Bob Gaines]

Hi All,

Looking for help.  My fiberglass taillight panel top edge is sinking toward the top center of each taillight housing.  The curvature is very noticeable in the attached photo.  We're looking to replace it, but are not sure how to prevent this from occurring again.  We appreciate any thoughts on prevention and what type of replacement panel to get.  I've seen just the taillight panel and one with integrated light housings (much more expensive).

Appreciate any help.  Thank you.

Respectfully,

Jeff

What number is your car or when was it built at Shelby or is this a clone/tribute. This question not meant in any kind of derogatory way but important so as to make suggestions on helping your problem.

[Coralsnake]

I think the clones have found our secret headquarters 

[JD]

There were variations of the fiberglass tail panel over the production run of the '67's.

The version you describe is an early version that had that issue as well as some others.  That droop along the top (above the exhaust outlets) was common, see attached images.

If your car is an original and you want to replace with a "correct" version that is one way to go.  If you are not concerned about correctness then a later version with a lip along the top that rivets to the rear might be a choice you want.  Image attached of one of the top lip versions.

[Mustang500]

Thanks for the info. JD. 

I've seen the wrap/lip toward the trunk option, but was concerned about the line you would would see on the left and right edges as it doesn't extend the whole length.

Hi Bob,

Tribute car.  Groups like this helped me immensely when the car was first built in the early 2000's when I had zero knowledge on how to do it.  I'm now going back to clean up a few of the things that have always bugged me :-)  This looked like the most knowledgeable group to help solve the issue.  I'm fine with any type of change to prevent this from happening again.  The simple fiberglass replacement piece on the car now or the one with the integrated light bucket seem to be the two choices, but would rather avoid the latter.

Look forward to any thoughts.

Thank you.

Jeff

P.S. If anyone is interested, some background on the car:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mufp-0709-1967-mustang-fastback-replica

http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-0911-1967-shelby-gt-500-replica

Car now has many changes since articles were written including an aluminum stroked dart block 427, solid roller with 8 stack Hilborn injection, new fuel system/tank, cooling system, cogged tooth belt setup, etc.  Two hoods, stock for short stacks and two oval slots for tall stacks through hood.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks for the info. JD. 

I've seen the wrap/lip toward the trunk option, but was concerned about the line you would would see on the left and right edges as it doesn't extend the whole length.

Hi Bob,

Tribute car.  Groups like this helped me immensely when the car was first built in the early 2000's when I had zero knowledge on how to do it.  I'm now going back to clean up a few of the things that have always bugged me :-)  This looked like the most knowledgeable group to help solve the issue.  I'm fine with any type of change to prevent this from happening again.  The simple fiberglass replacement piece on the car now or the one with the integrated light bucket seem to be the two choices, but would rather avoid the latter.

Look forward to any thoughts.

Thank you.

Jeff

P.S. If anyone is interested, some background on the car:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mufp-0709-1967-mustang-fastback-replica

http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-0911-1967-shelby-gt-500-replica

Car now has many changes since articles were written including an aluminum stroked dart block 427, solid roller with 8 stack Hilborn injection, new fuel system/tank, cooling system, cogged tooth belt setup, etc.  Two hoods, stock for short stacks and two oval slots for tall stacks through hood.

Thank you for that information so that I could give you a answer that would positively solve your problem. There is only one answer for a genuine car and more and better alternative  for you since you do not have the limitations of putting it back original. JD pictured the tail panel with the lip that is riveted across the top that will eliminate the problem you have.This was a fix that Shelby American did to solve this problem . That same evolved later production rivet lip tail tail panel has the face slightly contoured outward which allows the tail lights to move outward a little to give slightly more room in the trunk so that the spare tire fits better.You will have to use later thinner tail light boxes with the later style panel also. Best of luck with your project.

[roddster]

  Just some alternative notes:  I have both, a real GT 350, early car with similar panel, and I'm building a Tribute car with this same similar panel.

1) might be the 6/32 threaded studs/nuts that hold the aluminum trim has been over tightened.  But, in order to fix that, you might have to unbolt it, clean out the sealer, which is 3M strip caulk, and then be careful when you retighten the trim.  Just a little cualk needs to mush out, so do this when the temperature is above 60 degrees so the caulk is soft.
2) on my tribute car, I also did not like how loose the fiberglass panel was across the top.  This is more work but it fixed the problem.  I split the length 3 ways, and in the 1/3 position, and the 2/3 position (above each taillight). I fiberglassed in a one inch length of steel tube.  I believe it was 11/32 ID. This tube sits in the depression along the tp of the taillight panel. Then I bent two pieces of threaded rod (again, 11/32 thread) so they could slip into these tubes.  Drill a small hole in the appropriate spots along the top (but below the area you would see) and reassemble.  You now have two more hidden fasteners to hold that area of the panel. Except if you look from the inside and up, you can see the nuts.
Does it matter on a tribute?  Very little.  If you are careful, you might not even mess up the paint on the tail panel.

[FL SAAC]

good luck with the project and enjoy !

[tesgt350]

Just curious, when did they start Tilting the Tail Lights?

[Bob Gaines]

Just curious, when did they start Tilting the Tail Lights?

They were not meant to be tilted. 

[tesgt350]

Just curious, when did they start Tilting the Tail Lights?

They were not meant to be tilted.

So the Tilted ones are After Market?

[Bob Gaines]

Just curious, when did they start Tilting the Tail Lights?

They were not meant to be tilted.

So the Tilted ones are After Market?

Maybe but they could be mis made original too .  There are many examples of poor fit and quality of 67 Shelby fiberglass.

[JD]

There are a number of parts sandwiched together and then attached to the tail of the Shelby "modified" (hacked-up) Mustang tail panel, see disassembled parts and then there is a version of the fiberglass tail panel and the car itself, in all of that.

Notice in the black & white image of the '67 panels being pre-assembled next to the Shelby production line the parts and the fiberglass panel are made as a unit to be attached to the car with the Shelby in-trunk tail light brackets/boxes  already pop riveted in-place.

[Mustang500]

Many thanks to all for the great info.  Appreciate it.