Can't Install Brake Drum After Shoe Replacement

[SHELB66]

I finally got around to working on the rear brakes on my '66 Hertz.  Left rear was smoking on the way home one day so I knew I had to investigate.  Too many other things going on around the house with higher priority kept me from getting to it sooner.  I'm now working on the driver's side rear.  The cable going to the adjuster bracket had broken.  Brake shoes had been installed backwards who knows when.  Shoe material is cracked with a strange wear pattern and there is also some shoe material missing on one of the upper/lower edges.  They're a mess!  I have the new parts installed.  Problem is the drum will not go on without some persuasion.  I had to remove it by gently using a hammer.  The self adjuster is at its shortest length and the top portion of the shoes is at the pivot pin.  I've attached some pics.  I also loosened the bleeder screw on the brake cylinder.  I'm thinking that something might be tweaked, possibly the drum?  Any other ideas?

Craig R.

[TA Coupe]

Pretty sure I see the problem. The entire assembly does not seem to be centered. If you look at the 3rd picture there's a big gap from the shoe to the rear side of the backing plate and the 4th picture shows almost none.

       Roy

[greekz]

Pretty sure I see the problem. The entire assembly does not seem to be centered. If you look at the 3rd picture there's a big gap from the shoe to the rear side of the backing plate and the 4th picture shows almost none.

       Roy

I agree, you should be able to pull the shoe up onto the backing plate pads.  Also, both springs should be in front of the self adjusting cable.

[trotrof1]

In addition, make sure the emergency brake cable is completely releasing. Lightly tap on the lever/cable hardware behind the secondary shoe. A small movement will allow a increased air gap.

[Karguy]

Craig, You might look into having your new shoes arched by a brake shop. That is a process where the new shoes are surfaced to the correct arch so they fully contact the drum surface. You can simply hold the shoe against the drum friction surface and check for arch contact. Arching them with the proper equipment will remove areas of material from the shoes and may give you the clearance you need as well as maximizing the braking efficiency. It is an old school process but was very common back in the drum brake days. Just a thought. Good luck.

[SHELB66]

Pretty sure I see the problem. The entire assembly does not seem to be centered. If you look at the 3rd picture there's a big gap from the shoe to the rear side of the backing plate and the 4th picture shows almost none.

       Roy

I agree!  I noticed that after assembly.  The left shoe is actually on the plate but not by much.  I've tried pulling that shoe up and over but all that happens is that the shoe pulls away from the top anchor pin.  Maybe there's an issue with the backing plate.  Very frustrating!

Craig R.

[SHELB66]

Pretty sure I see the problem. The entire assembly does not seem to be centered. If you look at the 3rd picture there's a big gap from the shoe to the rear side of the backing plate and the 4th picture shows almost none.

       Roy

I agree, you should be able to pull the shoe up onto the backing plate pads.  Also, both springs should be in front of the self adjusting cable.

I thought the same regarding the 2 springs and the cable.  The factory 1966 Ford Mustang manual, page 2-18, states that it goes on after the right spring (yellow) is attached to the anchor pin.  I always thought the cable eye went on first but decided to follow the manual.

Craig R.

[tesgt350]

Could it be that the Shoes are the wrong ones?  Right Box, wrong Shoes?  Did you double check the Part Number on the box was correct?

[Lincoln tech]

Wrong shoes or drum , worn backing plate pads ( groves in pads ) , parking brake cable not releasing , wrong wheel cylinders , adjuster too long , all could cause this problem. Adjuster cable is always installed first before springs , and are you missing the pivot pin plate ? To make the job look professional squeeze the end of the springs some so they are not half open , also don't forget to lube the backing plate pads . Good luck.

[SHELB66]

Could it be that the Shoes are the wrong ones?  Right Box, wrong Shoes?  Did you double check the Part Number on the box was correct?

Shoes are a perfect match with the old ones.  That's one of the first things I checked before installation.  Thanks!

Craig R.

[shelbydoug]

I have seen the shoes cut for this reason. My past impression was that they were out of round but I didn't think about it that much.

If you look at the wear pattern on a broken in set you will rarely see a full contact pattern.

The set of shoes that I have are sectioned in three parts and you can clearly see a metallic content to them on the edges.

I'm wondering if the sectioning is an attempt at "correcting" this issue?

[greekz]

Here is a picture from the 1966 Shop Manual, maybe it will help.

[SHELB66]

Wrong shoes or drum , worn backing plate pads ( groves in pads ) , parking brake cable not releasing , wrong wheel cylinders , adjuster too long , all could cause this problem. Adjuster cable is always installed first before springs , and are you missing the pivot pin plate ? To make the job look professional squeeze the end of the springs some so they are not half open , also don't forget to lube the backing plate pads . Good luck.

Pivot pin plate was never there.  I have a couple on order and will install.  I smoothed down the backing plate pads and lubed prior to shoe installation.  Parts were ordered about 4 years ago when I first started the brake work.  Brake shoes were one of the first things I checked.  Thanks for all of the valuable info!

Craig R. 

[SHELB66]

Here is a picture from the 1966 Shop Manual, maybe it will help.

That's my reference manual.  It's gotten lots of use!  Thanks!
There's no pivot pin plate shown in that particular picture.

Craig R.

[SHELB66]

I have seen the shoes cut for this reason. My past impression was that they were out of round but I didn't think about it that much.

If you look at the wear pattern on a broken in set you will rarely see a full contact pattern.

The set of shoes that I have are sectioned in three parts and you can clearly see a metallic content to them on the edges.

I'm wondering if the sectioning is an attempt at "correcting" this issue?

Here's my old shoes!