Repo Autolite voltage regulator question

[1175]

What is the consensus on using a mechanical vs. solid state electronic voltage regulator?  Is one more likely to leave me high and dry unexpectedly than the other or are both viable options?

Thanks in advance

Jon

[greekz]

I have been running a solid state regulator for over two years with no problems.  Also, I did find my amp meter needle did not jump a round at idle like it had with the mechanical regulator.

Greek

[J_Speegle]

Since you mentioned the "reproduction" word be aware that most if not all of the electronic ones have a visible different from the original. The difference is often the base below where the wire loom plugs in if your looking for something that looks like an original

Rarely have problems with originals or service replacements. Reproduction electric items can often be an issue from reports over the years on the forums. Hopefully there are some good ones out there the issue is that in buying from resellers (the catalog companies) you often don't know who the supplier is of each

[Royce Peterson]

What is the consensus on using a mechanical vs. solid state electronic voltage regulator?  Is one more likely to leave me high and dry unexpectedly than the other or are both viable options?

Thanks in advance

Jon

My experience is that the reproductions from AMK or Marti Autoworks are normally set way too high. They charge the battery at around 17 volts and if done long enough (an hour or two) the battery explodes. The cure is to set the voltage regulator using the procedure in the factory shop manual.

[greekz]

What is the consensus on using a mechanical vs. solid state electronic voltage regulator?  Is one more likely to leave me high and dry unexpectedly than the other or are both viable options?

Thanks in advance

Jon

My experience is that the reproductions from AMK or Marti Autoworks are normally set way too high. They charge the battery at around 17 volts and if done long enough (an hour or two) the battery explodes. The cure is to set the voltage regulator using the procedure in the factory shop manual.

That would not be cool.  Fortunately, the regulator I purchased from Virginia Mustang and just having my alternator rebuilt by Dead Nuts On, the maximum output I have seen is around 14.75 volts.  It also depends on what the battery needs.  I may check again this weekend to verify.

Greek

[Bob Gaines]

What is the consensus on using a mechanical vs. solid state electronic voltage regulator?  Is one more likely to leave me high and dry unexpectedly than the other or are both viable options?

Thanks in advance

Jon

My experience is that the reproductions from AMK or Marti Autoworks are normally set way too high. They charge the battery at around 17 volts and if done long enough (an hour or two) the battery explodes. The cure is to set the voltage regulator using the procedure in the factory shop manual.

That would not be cool.  Fortunately, the regulator I purchased from Virginia Mustang and just having my alternator rebuild by Dead Nuts On, the maximum output I have seen is around 14.75 volts.  It also depends on what the battery needs.  I may check again this weekend to verify.

Greek

You might double check but I think that the factory looking regulators that Virginia sells have the solid state insides instead of the mechanical . They even have the proper looking base that you don't get by just swapping a cover .

[gt350shelb]

I have used motocraft one for last 20 years. if you are looking for correct  see other options mentioned above . I would remove original cover and  swap it on to new regulator . if you are crative you could make it look more correct.

on a side note  check charging volage of all of them. especially if running repop batery with agm (miata) battery inside.  these do not like to be over charged and will turn to trash  quickly  if they are . 13.5 volts is plently for  the agm to live  a long happy life.

[greekz]

Just for grins today I checked the voltage output on both cars:

1966 GT-350, with mechanical voltage regulator and rebuilt alternator by Dead Nuts On.
12.8 volts @650 rpm
15.8 volts @1300 rpm

1967 GT-350, with solid state voltage regulator from Virginia Mustang and rebuilt alternator by Dead Nuts On.
14.5 volts @750 rpm
14.5 volts @1250 rpm

At least with my two cars, the solid state voltage regulator is more consistent.  Not sure this data means much, but thought I would share.

Greek

[texas swede]

If you use a repo mechanical voltage regulator which uses original type amperes 38 or 43, only use an original alternator
as the repo give about 60amps. Guess how I know, burnt two different regulators over the years.
Just a tip!
Texas Swede

[Bob Gaines]

If you use a repo mechanical voltage regulator which uses original type amperes 38 or 43, only use an original alternator
as the repo give about 60amps. Guess how I know, burnt two different regulators over the years.
Just a tip!
Texas Swede

The 55 amp stater winding is about the only option in alternator rebuilding now a days. Yes over time it my or may not burn up a regulator faster but it is the standard in the rebuild industry regardless of original applications. You can tell by the number of plates visible between the front and rear housing however I have never deducted for this nuance detail in Div II concours . I have even been criticized for doing it in DIV I even though that would be missing the point.

[texas swede]

After I changed to a solid-state regulator with the correct cover, I have never (knock on wood) had any problems.
The way it made itself visible was the flickering or always showed a weak red lamp at idle.
Texas Swede

[1175]

Ok.  Thanks all for the replies!  Especially the extra work provided by greek z!

Just installed a solid state version from dead nuts on replacing an old amk mechanical repo.

Thanks
Jon

[BryanT]

Had a problem with the AMK regulator sold thru NPD Part Number 10316-1A. Amp meter gauge was bouncing all the time and faster as RPM increasd.

[Royce Peterson]

Just for grins today I checked the voltage output on both cars:

1966 GT-350, with mechanical voltage regulator and rebuilt alternator by Dead Nuts On.
12.8 volts @650 rpm
15.8 volts @1300 rpm

1967 GT-350, with solid state voltage regulator from Virginia Mustang and rebuilt alternator by Dead Nuts On.
14.5 volts @750 rpm
14.5 volts @1250 rpm

At least with my two cars, the solid state voltage regulator is more consistent.  Not sure this data means much, but thought I would share.

Greek

15.8 volts is way too much. 13.7 is better long term. 14.5 seems a bit high too but might be OK if you don't drive much.

[rkm]

The Virginia Classic Mustang item is accurate and reliable in my Cobra air car and it has cooked several originals in the past. Brant knows his stuff!