67 Shelby gt350/500 automatic shifter competition suspension.

[V8Dave]

Hello everyone.
I wonder if anyone on the forum would be able to help/educate me.
I am looking for some information/ or any pictures of the 67 Shelby competition automatic shifter mechanism as well as paint and plating finishes on the parts.
I'm always curious to learn about some of the rare and unique parts fitted on the Shelby mustangs (in this case the 67s) and of course any early and late running production changes.
What was the idea/ intention/ function behind the competition automatic shifter mechanism on the 67 gt350/500s. Did it improve shifting times on the street or track?  Help prevent over shifting?Any information or guidance on this very cool unique part is much appreciated. Especially any pictures people may have.
I tried a search on the forum before posting this thread but found nothing  and I think I remember there was something on the old forum about the shifter mechanism before the crash however I can not be sure.
Many thanks for any information / pictures or general knowledge that you maybe able to share with me regarding this part.
Kind regards
Dave

[J_Speegle]

Place to start with some pictures. Not sure what words you used but I found this thread using the words "67 automatic shifter"

https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=492.msg4204#msg4204

[V8Dave]

Brilliant thank you very much J Speegle for that link.
I don't no why I couldn't find it maybe auto correct spelling? 😕 Found it now fine.....strange.
Either way my sincere apologies for wasting anyone's time however thank you very much for the link
That's brilliant.
Thank you very much
Kind regards
Dave

[J_Speegle]

No problem - we're her to help

[V8Dave]

Hello Everyone.
Thank you J speegle for the link that you posted its been most helpful however i am still in need of some information.
I have one of the 67 competition shifter mechanisms that i am about to install back into a 67 gt500 however the bottom of the shifter bucket is missing the little welded on plate that the spring loaded plunger rides on and i am assuming has 3 craters or rounds recesses for the plunger to hit/rest in when the shifter is either in D/2/1. if i am correct in my thinking?
Would anyone happen to have some good pictures of the 67 shifter mechanism and especially of the little plate that is welded on to the bottom of the bucket assembly seen from underneath the car?
Anyone that can supply me with measurements/photos/the gauge of steel the plate is that was used to make the little plate absolutely anything at all so i can get this fixed before it is installed back in the car would be a great help.
Roddster did you manage to get any photos or information as i know on the older post about the shifter detent you was after the same/similar information?
Also does anyone have a photocopy or scan of two page article in Mustang Times (MCA Feb 2018) about the shifter detent that was mentioned in the older thread that someone maybe able to forward to me by pm or post?
I will try and post a photo of my shifter bucket assembly so as to show what i am missing.
Thank you all in advance for any help or information , regarding my shifter problem.
Many thanks
Dave

[V8Dave]

here is a photo of the bottom of the shifter bucket where i believe a plate should be welded on.
Many thanks.
Dave

[roddster]

  I've gotten delayed by practically everything you would do when knocking a car down to its shell and taking it back during the build up. 
  To answer the question though, that plate looks to be the thinnest possible so 1/16th of an inch.  And likely 1" wide to maybe 1 1/2" wide.  Not much of a weld needed either.
  It would be difficult to say where to drill in any depressions for the roller as that is going to be dependant on where the Fomoco shift plate stops the shifter.  Seems there is what you get but there is also some modification Fomoco made for the Competion suspension optioned cars.  I'd just as soon like to have a template of that. (gone when the website crashed a few years back)

[V8Dave]

Thanks Roddster for the information.
I have the competition shifter mechanism with the extra teeth welded on and the thread stud with spring loaded roller its just that plate that appears to be missing according to looking at the photos on the other thread on this form.
If you have any photos of plate/mechanism or even that article mentioned i would be very grateful.
Thank you for getting back to me.
Kind regards.
Dave

[67_1183]

If you have any photos of plate/mechanism or even that article mentioned i would be very grateful.

I have attached the article, pdf format.  It has a picture of the plate.

[V8Dave]

67_1183
Thank you so much for your help and reaching out to me with that article many many thanks.
According to that article then the added plate underneath should have only two dimples/craters in it for up shifting/down shifting between D-2/ 2-D and not 3 dimples as i thought for 1-2-D.
Many thanks for the article 67_1183.
If anyone else has any further photos of the shifter mechanism plate please post them.
Many thanks to all for the help.
Dave

[roddster]

  Meanwhile:  The adjustable plunger thingy is known as a "hex-drive ball nose spring plunger" in the McMaster Carr catalog.
   Available in various sizes but I guessed it to be 1/4 X 20 thread.  1/4 24 is not available.

   Grainger only shows this in metric sizes.

  When I get to the metal plates in a little bit, I'll post photos.

[Coralsnake]

Dont the window tracks have a similar adjusting hex bolt?

[Bob Gaines]

Dont the window tracks have a similar adjusting hex bolt?

No .The one on the shifter s unique in that it has a small ball nose that is spring loaded.

[J_Speegle]

Dont the window tracks have a similar adjusting hex bolt?

Believe those have a large disk fashioned about mid way on the shaft. Not all thread

[roddster]

  First off; this is NOT a blue print.  Just a little helper info for those who wish to do this on their shifter.  Some additional pointers provided.

  1) After getting and installing the tension stud, I really think it is a 5/16 X 28 thread.  You can get those studs with a little plastic spot on it to keep it from rattling out.  However, since I already had the 1/4 X 20 one, I found that if you correctly place the hole you are going to put in, you can also put a 1/4 X 20 nut on to lock it down.
  2) Look close in the photo.  There is a pencil mark to show you where the ball from the tension stud will ride.
        Fabrication is often personal, so bear with me here.  I used a 2" wide by 1/8" thick piece of flat plate.  I cut one end at a slight angle to follow the Fomoco shifter mounting metal.  I did this so I could put in additional welds to hold the plate in place.
   I do think the width in the earlier photos shows that plate is only 1/2" wide.  You can make your plate that way too for a more correct modification.  I wish the photos provided in the article would have shown that.
    I laid the plate I made over a 1/2" wide piece of flat stock.  You can see the curve (to hug the factory steel bushing) that is required either way, now that the shifter assembly is apart.  That hole is 1 5/16ths in diameter.  Your choice - wide or narrow.
  3) I did not add the additional plate up in the shifter detent area.  Instead, I filed a depression in the plate so you would have to push in the shifter knob to get the shifter out of neutral.  It is just a little notch.