Installing headers on 67 GT500

[shelbydoug]

I think that I read that some have installed Hooker headers on an engine first before installing the engine. Then installing the engine, transmission and headers together as a unit?

Has anyone here tried that?

[daltondavid]

I believe I did it that way on 67#3115 years ago.  i had the stock engine getting rebuilt I put another 428 in to run the car around and had a nice set of headers and baffled side exits. man that car was loud!

[Bob Gaines]

I think that I read that some have installed Hooker headers on an engine first before installing the engine. Then installing the engine, transmission and headers together as a unit?

Has anyone here tried that?

It is common to do that with stock exhaust manifolds .Many years ago I tried with hooker headers and failed. I haven't tried since because I have more respect for my time. When you see a complete FE engine with hooker headers installed hanging over the engine compartment it becomes very clear it will not fit by lowering in.  I am not going to go into describing what goes into prefitting the terrible fitting Hooker headers if they are the first time going on a particular Mustang body. 

[shelbydoug]

I think that I read that some have installed Hooker headers on an engine first before installing the engine. Then installing the engine, transmission and headers together as a unit?

Has anyone here tried that?

It is common to do that with stock exhaust manifolds .Many years ago I tried with hooker headers and failed. I haven't tried since because I have more respect for my time. When you see a complete FE engine with hooker headers installed hanging over the engine compartment it becomes very clear it will not fit by lowering in.  I am not going to go into describing what goes into prefitting the terrible fitting Hooker headers if they are the first time going on a particular Mustang body.

I have a very early set from 67 or 68. A different style then currently produced. A different part number. They tuck in quite tightly. Don't hang down like the current part. The collector is parallel to the floor, not angled down like the current part.

I thought someone had mentioned a successful installation with the headers mounted. So I thought that I would ask again to refresh my memory.

[Bob Gaines]

I think that I read that some have installed Hooker headers on an engine first before installing the engine. Then installing the engine, transmission and headers together as a unit?

Has anyone here tried that?

It is common to do that with stock exhaust manifolds .Many years ago I tried with hooker headers and failed. I haven't tried since because I have more respect for my time. When you see a complete FE engine with hooker headers installed hanging over the engine compartment it becomes very clear it will not fit by lowering in.  I am not going to go into describing what goes into prefitting the terrible fitting Hooker headers if they are the first time going on a particular Mustang body.

I have a very early set from 67 or 68. A different style then currently produced. A different part number. They tuck in quite tightly. Don't hang down like the current part. The collector is parallel to the floor, not angled down like the current part.

I thought someone had mentioned a successful installation with the headers mounted. So I thought that I would ask again to refresh my memory.

I would guess later then that. I don't think hooker made a header for a FE to fit in a 67-70 Mustang until 1969 .

[shelbydoug]

I think that I read that some have installed Hooker headers on an engine first before installing the engine. Then installing the engine, transmission and headers together as a unit?

Has anyone here tried that?

It is common to do that with stock exhaust manifolds .Many years ago I tried with hooker headers and failed. I haven't tried since because I have more respect for my time. When you see a complete FE engine with hooker headers installed hanging over the engine compartment it becomes very clear it will not fit by lowering in.  I am not going to go into describing what goes into prefitting the terrible fitting Hooker headers if they are the first time going on a particular Mustang body.

I have a very early set from 67 or 68. A different style then currently produced. A different part number. They tuck in quite tightly. Don't hang down like the current part. The collector is parallel to the floor, not angled down like the current part.

I thought someone had mentioned a successful installation with the headers mounted. So I thought that I would ask again to refresh my memory.

I would guess later then that. I don't think hooker made a header for a FE to fit in a Mustang until 69 .

I can't prove that they are Hookers. They guy that I bought them from said they were and from his 69 Mach 1. They are stamped with a strange part number that I could not cross reference.

I know that Hooker was sold a couple of times and currently they label the headers quite clearly so that you know what they are. They are nicely made and not a cheap haphazard set. I'm going with them. There is no point in going that original, original exhausts,  on this car.

[Kent]

I installed some FE´s in my mustangs with the JBA Headers installed with no big problems. It's tricky as you have to use a good angle for the engine to tuck it in and then you have to make a small turn while lowering it with the crane. But when you know how and did it some times its really a easy task.

[shelbydoug]

IF these aren't Hookers, does anyone recognize them?

While I have these pictures up, is there a different dipstick tube for a '67 and a '68? When I bolt the tube up to the exhaust manifold, the tube pulls out of the block.

[TA Coupe]

Sometimes people install an engine with just one side attached. Which ever side is the hardest to do after the engine is installed then do the easier side after.

      Roy

[shelbydoug]

Sometimes people install an engine with just one side attached. Which ever side is the hardest to do after the engine is installed then do the easier side after.

      Roy

I won't know until I try to do it. The reason I'm using used headers is because they were already fit to a running car which is illustrated by various dimples made in some of the tubes to clear obstacles.

To my knowledge they came out of a 69 cj Mustang and there is a chance that the 67 chassis they are going into may have a couple of small differences which I can't take into account until I try the installation.

If you ask me, the starter side looks more daunting but I won't know until I do this.

One suggestion was to leave the engine hanging up off of the mounts a few inches and then drop the headers in at that point and bolt them up. That may make better sense and maybe this forum was just the wrong place to ask about installing headers? I'm not reaching the people who know?

[mikeh]

On my c code 68 fastback I have had a set of Coyote brand headers on it for about 30-35 years. My understanding is they were made by Hooker as a less expensive version, but I bought them used in the 80's, so?. Engine is 428 CJ. I think most brands were advertised to fit 67-70 Mustangs, back in the day at least. They fit fine. My car has auto trans & no power steering.
It has been probably 20 years since the engine was out, but when I was racing it somewhat regularly I pulled the engine from time to time.
I always left the transmission in the car, then kind of worked the headers and the engine in at the same, usually with some help to work each side in, drop the engine a little, etc.

And I have all 32 header bolts installed! That takes longer than installing the engine!!

And I don't think there's any way the engine would go in with the headers already attached.

Hope this helps a little

[shelbydoug]

Thanks Mike. I'm just picking everyone's brain. It looks like we lay them in the chassis engine out, then lower engine to where they can be attached, then finish lowering the engine.

I don't know how easy that will be but likely more doable then other methods.

I am hoping that someone will be able to cross reference that stamping number from an old catalog  but it probably doesn't matter very much at this point.


I don't think that it is possible to get equal length headers in this engine/chassis configuration so I don't see what an economy set would do to change anything.

In addition on FE's the exhaust ports are all the same. They are all, not good which is why many camshafts are ground on 113 degrees instead of 110. So with that in mind, there really isn't anything to be gained with bigger tubes, etc.

[shelbymann1970]

Cobrask8 can you elaborate on hookers since you put them on my car?

[shelbydoug]

I still can't find a cross refernce to that header part.

I found the Cyclone, a '73 Hooker catalog, Doug's. Nada.

I know you all are sticklers for accurate details so it troubles me that all I can do is refer to them as early Hookers, but I'm still gonna' use 'em anyway.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Mike. I'm just picking everyone's brain. It looks like we lay them in the chassis engine out, then lower engine to where they can be attached, then finish lowering the engine.

I don't know how easy that will be but likely more doable then other methods.

I am hoping that someone will be able to cross reference that stamping number from an old catalog  but it probably doesn't matter very much at this point.


I don't think that it is possible to get equal length headers in this engine/chassis configuration so I don't see what an economy set would do to change anything.

In addition on FE's the exhaust ports are all the same. They are all, not good which is why many camshafts are ground on 113 degrees instead of 110. So with that in mind, there really isn't anything to be gained with bigger tubes, etc.

The only equal length headers that I have seen were the fender well type. That is not worth doing in your situation IMO. So that you have the maximum header clearance possible you should double check that your shock towers have not sagged in ward any.  I call that big blockitis    I have always found a easy ruler was a original Ford one piece Shelby export brace that you could set down in place on the shock tower studs without ANY prying etc. If it will drop into place and all bolt holes line up etc. then it is a excellent indications that the shock towers are in the original assemblyline position. If they are not I have always used a harbor freight porta power set up to spread the shock towers back into place. FYI although easier with the engine out I have successfully done this with the engine already installed.