Replacing Ball Joint Grease Boots

[Steve Meltzer]

The grease boots on both the upper and lower ball joints in my 68 KR are torn to shreds. So, I decided to replace them. It turns out, as you all already know, that the boot is integrated into the ball joint which in turn, is riveted to the control arm.

What is the best way to do this, and yet keep it as original as possible, and looking as good as it does? Is there a service that can do this at a reasonable cost or should I buy one of the various replacements that seem to be readily available from one of the vendors? I want to keep the car as close to original and correct on my watch as possible. Thanks for your advice. Steve

ADD:  The spring removal tool suggested here looks to be quite substantial, and the mechanic doing the work is pleased so far. Thanks, Steve

[Bob Gaines]

The grease boots on both the upper and lower ball joints in my 68 KR are torn to shreds. So, I decided to replace them. It turns out, as you all already know, that the boot is integrated into the ball joint which in turn, is riveted to the control arm.

What is the best way to do this, and yet keep it as original as possible, and looking as good as it does? Is there a service that can do this at a reasonable cost or should I buy one of the various replacements that seem to be readily available from one of the vendors? I want to keep the car as close to original and correct on my watch as possible. Thanks for your advice. Steve

ADD:  The spring removal tool suggested here looks to be quite substantial, and the mechanic doing the work is pleased so far. Thanks, Steve

I assume yours are restored original .  Talk to Marcus Angel he can put new boots on .https://anghelrestorations.com/  The repro replacements do not look near as authentic when compared to restored originals .

[Steve Meltzer]

Bob, Thanks again for the recommendation of the coil spring removal tool. It worked out perfectly. Also, my control arms are on their way to Marcus who was extremely friendly and helpful when I spoke with him. I checked into the vendor-supplied control arm repro's, but many seemed to need modifications to fit. Although Marcus is not cheap, it still seems like a better choice rather than modifying something that wasn't right to start with. Thanks again bob. Steve.

[Corey Bowcutt]

Can you share what the coil spring removal tool is?

Corey

[Steve Meltzer]

yes, of course:

National Parts Depot: 988-31

https://www.npdlink.com/product/coil-spring-compressor/217530?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D988-31%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

[69 GT350 Vert]

My upper ball joint grease boots tore when I jacked up the front end and let the upper control arms hang at full travel.  They mention a tool to support the upper control arms in the shop manuals to prevent this problem.  Just thought I would share my experience. 

[Bob Gaines]

My upper ball joint grease boots tore when I jacked up the front end and let the upper control arms hang at full travel.  They mention a tool to support the upper control arms in the shop manuals to prevent this problem.  Just thought I would share my experience.

+1 on post above. To Steve and others ,yes the tool that is illustrated in all of the 65-70 shop manuals or like something similar (even a block of wood) is necessary if you know what is good for you. The tension put on things like the control arm boots ,strut rod bushings and front shock upper bushings is enough to make those things crack. More so if they are repro. It may not happen one time but you are tempting fate to continue to do it IMO. All those things are time consuming and can be expensive to fix and replace (just ask Steve).

[Bob Gaines]

I made a couple of the upper control arm supports up (one for each side) based on the specs given in the shop manuals, I painted mine a fluorescent orange to help me remember to take it out once I let the car down. Marcus used to sell some on his website but not sure if he still does.Scott and Brant if you are reading that is something you should make up to offer in your catalogs.

[Steve Meltzer]

Yes, this is definitely a big, hard and, dangerous job (that's why I'm not doing it !). So, I have no burning desire to go through this exercise ever again. But I'm confused, are you saying that whenever the front end of the car is jacked up, the control arms should be stabilized in someway? Is this true if it's on a two post lift, as well? Thanks, Steve.

[69 GT350 Vert]

I'd buy a pair of upper control arm supports if they were available. 

Steve, don't let the front tires hang like in this photo.  It is hard on the grease boots.

[Steve Meltzer]

thanx! i never would have known. s

[Lincoln tech]

Boots should not tear unless they're old and dry rotted ? But here is good explanation what the problem really is .  https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1612-lift-classic-mustangs-and-avoid-suspension-damage/

[Special Ed]

Lh side fuel line runs along frame rail on some cars so u have to make special tool on lh side to hold up a-arm.

[Bob Gaines]

I'd buy a pair of upper control arm supports if they were available. 

Steve, don't let the front tires hang like in this photo.  It is hard on the grease boots.

+1 . Hard on the upper shock bushings,strut rod bushings . Hard on the upper control arm boots more so then the lowers . Repro parts seem to be made of less durable rubber and more susceptible to damage from hanging then OEM parts.  Yes a two post lifts allows the front suspension to hang which is why you need the supports . A four post lift of course allows the car to sit on the tires and not hanging in the air.

[TLea]

Boots should not tear unless they're old and dry rotted ? But here is good explanation what the problem really is . 

There's another very likely reason. If you use the reproduction boots on the aftermarket ball joints like Moog, the metal rings are too tight and will not allow it to spin freely so the boot will turn. Every time the wheel is turned the boot twists