Replacing Ball Joint Grease Boots

[Lincoln tech]

Boots should not tear unless they're old and dry rotted ? But here is good explanation what the problem really is . 

There's another very likely reason. If you use the reproduction boots on the aftermarket ball joints like Moog, the metal rings are too tight and will not allow it to spin freely so the boot will turn. Every time the wheel is turned the boot twists

That makes more sense , also ASE certified guys using "pickle forks" to separate joint from spindle 

[shelbydoug]

Boots should not tear unless they're old and dry rotted ? But here is good explanation what the problem really is . 

There's another very likely reason. If you use the reproduction boots on the aftermarket ball joints like Moog, the metal rings are too tight and will not allow it to spin freely so the boot will turn. Every time the wheel is turned the boot twists

That makes more sense , also ASE certified guys using "pickle forks" to separate joint from spindle 

Yes but not everyone has heard of, none the less seen, a ball joint press. I'm still not convinced though that it won't tear up the boot also?

[martyjac]

I had all four control arms restored by a reputable business in the Mustang/Shelby community using reproduction boots. All four boots disintegrated without the car ever moving. I heard the story of the ring diameter clearances, but I believe the composition of the rubber could also be a factor. I would use NOS boots if at all possible.

[69 GT350 Vert]

Jim Cowles sold me restored upper/lower control arms back in 2011 - see photos below.  They were restored by Gary Ericksen, and I have been told he used good quality boots and parts.  They still tore after 10 years of use, and jacking numerous times with the front tires free-hanging.  Perhaps that is normal, but I only drove 10K miles in that period. 

Look at the upper control arm boots the next time you jack up your car with the tires hanging.  On my car, the rubber boots are contorted.

[69 GT350 Vert]

Has anyone ever tried making the upper control arm supports using a block of 4" x 4" wood cut to proper length and a notch cut in the end for the frame rail contact point.  I can't weld so this might be a good alternative for me.  Let me know if anyone has done this successfully so I can get the dimensions.  Thanks. 

[s2ms]

Has anyone ever tried making the upper control arm supports using a block of 4" x 4" wood cut to proper length and a notch cut in the end for the frame rail contact point.  I can't weld so this might be a good alternative for me.  Let me know if anyone has done this successfully so I can get the dimensions.  Thanks.

I made some from 2x3 pieces and used very hard rubber blocks (think hockey pucks) for the contact points, they work great.

The problem with the homemade welded supports is on 65-66 driver's side they interfere with the fuel line. The original Ford piece shown in the Perkins M/T article does work but try to find one of those.

[Bob Gaines]

I had all four control arms restored by a reputable business in the Mustang/Shelby community using reproduction boots. All four boots disintegrated without the car ever moving. I heard the story of the ring diameter clearances, but I believe the composition of the rubber could also be a factor. I would use NOS boots if at all possible.

All too common of a story. Yes, apparently many repro parts are made of inferior rubber. It is hard to keep track of the bad or who has improved their product. The stress that the hanging suspension puts on these parts accelerates any short comings. 

[shelbymann1970]

The grease boots on both the upper and lower ball joints in my 68 KR are torn to shreds. So, I decided to replace them. It turns out, as you all already know, that the boot is integrated into the ball joint which in turn, is riveted to the control arm.

What is the best way to do this, and yet keep it as original as possible, and looking as good as it does? Is there a service that can do this at a reasonable cost or should I buy one of the various replacements that seem to be readily available from one of the vendors? I want to keep the car as close to original and correct on my watch as possible. Thanks for your advice. Steve

ADD:  The spring removal tool suggested here looks to be quite substantial, and the mechanic doing the work is pleased so far. Thanks, Steve

I assume yours are restored original .  Talk to Marcus Angel he can put new boots on .https://anghelrestorations.com/  The repro replacements do not look near as authentic when compared to restored originals .

Hi Bob,  are you referring to the Carpenter ones for the dust boots? A few minutes ago I emailed Marcus showing him I had my original ball joints apart now. Are the lower boots the same? I got a pair of NOS lower arms that are service(not assy line correct) that I'd take the boots off of if need be. Been talking to Marcus and he is going to rivet mine and finish them. See pic. Also I replaced the boot before on a pair of originals following the advice of SAAc members on gently prying up the metal ring and inserting the seal. No problem with those boots for years before the car sold. But it was original rings also.

[Special Ed]

c70a boots are different between uppers and lowers as the lower rubber lip is thicker on 1 vs the other.

[shelbymann1970]

c70a boots are different between uppers and lowers as the lower rubber lip is thicker on 1 vs the other.

Thanks Ed.

[shelbymann1970]

Has anyone ever tried making the upper control arm supports using a block of 4" x 4" wood cut to proper length and a notch cut in the end for the frame rail contact point.  I can't weld so this might be a good alternative for me.  Let me know if anyone has done this successfully so I can get the dimensions.  Thanks.

I'm not sure what you mean on upper arm support. When doing some work about 3-4 decades ago I had to support my upper control arm. In the 69 Shop manuals was a drawing of the tool needed. I welded up a tool out of CRS and it worked great. It supported the upper arm to the frame rail. I was replacing a LCA IIRC.

[Bob Gaines]

Has anyone ever tried making the upper control arm supports using a block of 4" x 4" wood cut to proper length and a notch cut in the end for the frame rail contact point.  I can't weld so this might be a good alternative for me.  Let me know if anyone has done this successfully so I can get the dimensions.  Thanks.

I'm not sure what you mean on upper arm support. When doing some work about 3-4 decades ago I had to support my upper control arm. In the 69 Shop manuals was a drawing of the tool needed. I welded up a tool out of CRS and it worked great. It supported the upper arm to the frame rail. I was replacing a LCA IIRC.

Yes the illustration to make the tool is in ALL of the 65-70 shop manuals. There any number of alternatives to do the same thing as the welded metal tool like wood 2x4 or 4X4. Just don't compromise your safety by using something that is ether not strong enough or doesn't make positive contact to support the upper arm. If you don't have a shop manual for your year of interest then get one .Besides the brace illustration it has a multitude of other helpful info.

[shelbymann1970]

Has anyone ever tried making the upper control arm supports using a block of 4" x 4" wood cut to proper length and a notch cut in the end for the frame rail contact point.  I can't weld so this might be a good alternative for me.  Let me know if anyone has done this successfully so I can get the dimensions.  Thanks.

I'm not sure what you mean on upper arm support. When doing some work about 3-4 decades ago I had to support my upper control arm. In the 69 Shop manuals was a drawing of the tool needed. I welded up a tool out of CRS and it worked great. It supported the upper arm to the frame rail. I was replacing a LCA IIRC.

Yes the illustration to make the tool is in ALL of the 65-70 shop manuals. There any number of alternatives to do the same thing as the welded metal tool like wood 2x4 or 4X4. Just don't compromise your safety by using something that is ether not strong enough or doesn't make positive contact to support the upper arm. If you don't have a shop manual for your year of interest then get one .Besides the brace illustration it has a multitude of other helpful info.

Yeah, to be clear I had a 30 years experience tool and die welder weld up my tool.

[67350#1242]

Has anyone ever tried making the upper control arm supports using a block of 4" x 4" wood cut to proper length and a notch cut in the end for the frame rail contact point.  I can't weld so this might be a good alternative for me.  Let me know if anyone has done this successfully so I can get the dimensions.  Thanks.

I made a set of them with 2" angle iron.  I found patterns on the internet but don't remember where.  They were easy to make and no welding.  Will post if I find instructions.
Kurt

1/12/24:   Found it.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umLnOLEhwME

Measured drawing:     https://www.autorestomod.com/diagrams.html

[doublemyv]

During my restoration of SFM5s444, I came across a post from another member that had a machine shop make him some very cool control arm support struts.   Clearly over the top in design, engineering, machining, and assembly, and even personalized with the selling dealer's name engraved.    This was in November of 2018, and since I have some tribal knowledge and appreciation of how machine shops produce parts, I decided to ask for a set to be made for my car.     I will post photos of the completed parts that have been supporting # 444 for several years now on a 2 post lift.   Mark