1967 428 Engine Resto Article Hemmings

[SHELB66]

Thought this might be useful to some.

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/restoring-a-1967-shelby-gt-500s-428-police-interceptor-engine/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=EDaily&utm_campaign=2023-12-25

Craig R.

[Bob Gaines]

Thought this might be useful to some.

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/restoring-a-1967-shelby-gt-500s-428-police-interceptor-engine/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=EDaily&utm_campaign=2023-12-25

Craig R.

Given the article seems to demonstrate assemblyline detailing then the builder should have had someone who was concours informed to go over it before presenting it as a yardstick to go by. It looks like a nice effort but there are a number of incorrect details. Some of the more obvious are the thermactor insulating tubes on the sparkplug wires on a obvious non thermactor engine .The valve covers letters did not come mirror finish and are too highly polished. The carb fresh air filter tube is bent wrong in that the filter should stand straight up instead of present 45 degree orientation. The insulating sleeve for the choke tube appears to be the fiberglass reproduction replacement with different texture compared to original asbestos and its signature texture. Admittedly hard to find presently.  The carb accelerator pump arms should be black chromate and the black chromate on the vent tubes is too weak. Typically the factory carb nuts were marked with a red paint slash across the top to identify if someone tried to take the carb off. The carb gasket shown is a aftermarket replacement type . I can think of a better alternative to the hardware store bolt apparently used as a plug for the oil pressure port like maybe the original oil pressure fitting and ferrell cap. The Autolite oil filter looks nice however given the engine is portrayed as assemblyline then the filter should be painted block color. A filter would not be changed to the service filter until the suggested 6000 mile mark . Some concours venues allow ether even though one is assemblyline and the other not. There is typically some minor block color overspray on the crankshaft sleeve given it was in place to protect the crankshaft seal in the timing cover during painting. The intake to block paint line does not follow the correct pattern. Ground cable bolt is the wrong finish. The crank accessory pulley is missing the factory machining marks. The block paint is too shiny and needs more flattener. It should not look a dipped candy apple. There are other incorrect nuance details that could be mentioned but these mentioned stand out the most from the provided pictures and would be possible deductions given that they are wrong. All these things can be corrected and are only pointed out because the article gives the impression by its scope and verbiage that they are assemblyline correct. At least for those that care. For those that don't never mind.  

[azdriver]

I am assuming the motor in the article was prepared for this car....


https://jefflilly.com/gallery/muscle-cars/1967shelby

[shelbydoug]

It didn't go into much detail about the block, such as an "A" scratch, etc.

It takes a little time to correct small things in reproduction parts but I have to give the build credit for the efforts. In some cases it takes years to find the "correct Assembly Line parts".

I noticed there was no attempt to deal with date codes either but then as previously mentioned in other posts, "what do 'they' want? A step by step detailed manual?"

Well, yes, of course. It is a type of contest to see who does the best after all.

[Side-Oilers]

 [/quote] Given the article seems to demonstrate assemblyline detailing then the builder should have had someone who was concours informed to go over it before presenting it as a yardstick to go by. It looks like a nice effort but there are a number of incorrect details. Some of the more obvious are the thermactor insulating tubes on the sparkplug wires on a obvious non thermactor engine .The valve covers letters did not come mirror finish and are too highly polished. The carb fresh air filter tube is bent wrong in that the filter should stand straight up instead of present 45 degree orientation. The insulating sleeve for the choke tube appears to be the fiberglass reproduction replacement with different texture compared to original asbestos and its signature texture. Admittedly hard to find presently.  The carb accelerator pump arms should be black chromate and the black chromate on the vent tubes is too weak. Typically the factory carb nuts were marked with a red paint slash across the top to identify if someone tried to take the carb off. The carb gasket shown is a aftermarket replacement type . I can think of a better alternative to the hardware store bolt apparently used as a plug for the oil pressure port like maybe the original oil pressure fitting and ferrell cap. The Autolite oil filter looks nice however given the engine is portrayed as assemblyline then the filter should be painted block color. A filter would not be changed to the service filter until the suggested 6000 mile mark . Some concours venues allow ether even though one is assemblyline and the other not. There is typically some minor block color overspray on the crankshaft sleeve given it was in place to protect the crankshaft seal in the timing cover during painting. The intake to block paint line does not follow the correct pattern. Ground cable bolt is the wrong finish. The crank accessory pulley is missing the factor machining marks. The block paint is too shiny and needs more flattener. It should not look a dipped candy apple. There are other incorrect nuance details that could be mentioned but these mentioned stand out the most from the provided pictures and would be possible deductions given that they are wrong. All these things can be corrected and are only pointed out because the article gives the impression by its scope and verbiage that they are assemblyline correct. At least for those that care. For those that don't never mind.


^^^[/b]And that's just the stuff Bob rattled off the top of his head, while simultaneously rebuilding dual-quad Holleys, setting-up a 9-inch Traction-Lok, dialing-in a distributor, and eating a ham sandwich.  What a slacker!

[Bob Gaines]

I am assuming the motor in the article was prepared for this car....


https://jefflilly.com/gallery/muscle-cars/1967shelby

It hurts when I see such really good workmanship missing its potential. I really wish the restorer would have reached out for some detail help so as to make it the best it could be. I see a number of other things in the pictures that could have been more accurate . The mistake of detailing the air cleaner lid like a 68 instead of a 67 highlights that need IMO. This forum helps restorers and enthusiast's alike from making mistakes like this on all the different years .

[Bob Gaines]

I should have explained that in 67 the air cleaner lid was machined on the side edge just like the top edge. In 68 it was less work to not machine it and leave it black wrinkle.

[Bob Gaines]

It didn't go into much detail about the block, such as an "A" scratch, etc.

It takes a little time to correct small things in reproduction parts but I have to give the build credit for the efforts. In some cases it takes years to find the "correct Assembly Line parts".

I noticed there was no attempt to deal with date codes either but then as previously mentioned in other posts, "what do 'they' want? A step by step detailed manual?"

Well, yes, of course. It is a type of contest to see who does the best after all.

Just by the way the engine was built told me it was done to SAAC DIV II or MCA trailered concours. Those class's do not refer to date codes and allow "authentic" reproduction parts.  Correct assemblyline parts ,date codes etc. are icing on the cake so to speak when a good reproduction part will do in those class's. The "icing on the cake" items will not garner extra points but are nice to see and show effort in those class's.  When no reproduction part is available then the assemblyline part is mandatory or there is a deduction. This is incentive for the aftermarket to develop a good repro or to refurbish original .  Fortunately for the people who love the Marque there are more authentic reproduction parts then ever before and knowledge on how to restore or where to send it information readily available . At least through the SAAC and the Concours forum.

[Bob Gaines]

Sorry but I couldn't see the forest through the trees before in that I realized that the oil fill tube cap is the larger push on version of the driver side twist on cap instead of the correct smaller diameter push on cap . The original smaller cap is hard to find but a nice repro is available. https://www.npdlink.com/product/cap-oil-filler-and-breather/105518? or  https://www.npdlink.com/product/cap-oil-filler-and-breather/147069?  . FYI the same small diameter but different trademarks.

[shelbydoug]

It didn't go into much detail about the block, such as an "A" scratch, etc.

It takes a little time to correct small things in reproduction parts but I have to give the build credit for the efforts. In some cases it takes years to find the "correct Assembly Line parts".

I noticed there was no attempt to deal with date codes either but then as previously mentioned in other posts, "what do 'they' want? A step by step detailed manual?"

Well, yes, of course. It is a type of contest to see who does the best after all.

Just by the way the engine was built told me it was done to SAAC DIV II or MCA trailered concours. Those class's do not refer to date codes and allow "authentic" reproduction parts.  Correct assemblyline parts ,date codes etc. are icing on the cake so to speak when a good reproduction part will do in those class's. The "icing on the cake" items will not garner extra points but are nice to see and show effort in those class's.  When no reproduction part is available then the assemblyline part is mandatory or there is a deduction. This is incentive for the aftermarket to develop a good repro or to refurbish original .  Fortunately for the people who love the Marque there are more authentic reproduction parts then ever before and knowledge on how to restore or where to send it information readily available . At least through the SAAC and the Concours forum.

It can be fun but is mostly a challenge to get it really accurate.

I appreciate your input into the subject. It's very helpful.

[Bob Gaines]

It didn't go into much detail about the block, such as an "A" scratch, etc.

It takes a little time to correct small things in reproduction parts but I have to give the build credit for the efforts. In some cases it takes years to find the "correct Assembly Line parts".

I noticed there was no attempt to deal with date codes either but then as previously mentioned in other posts, "what do 'they' want? A step by step detailed manual?"

Well, yes, of course. It is a type of contest to see who does the best after all.

Just by the way the engine was built told me it was done to SAAC DIV II or MCA trailered concours. Those class's do not refer to date codes and allow "authentic" reproduction parts.  Correct assemblyline parts ,date codes etc. are icing on the cake so to speak when a good reproduction part will do in those class's. The "icing on the cake" items will not garner extra points but are nice to see and show effort in those class's.  When no reproduction part is available then the assemblyline part is mandatory or there is a deduction. This is incentive for the aftermarket to develop a good repro or to refurbish original .  Fortunately for the people who love the Marque there are more authentic reproduction parts then ever before and knowledge on how to restore or where to send it information readily available . At least through the SAAC and the Concours forum.

It can be fun but is mostly a challenge to get it really accurate.

I appreciate your input into the subject. It's very helpful.

It takes a village as they say.

[shelbydoug]

Those two Scott Drake pieces are for open crankcase or closed pcv?

Villages can go many directions. It's important to avoid the "Village of the Damned".

[430dragpack]

Those two Scott Drake pieces are for open crankcase or closed pcv?

Villages can go many directions. It's important to avoid the "Village of the Damned".

The larger, twist in, 6766-12A is for the drivers side valve cover, non-emissions, or "cookie cutter" cap on closed system.
  The small, push on, 6766-5, goes on the intake oil filler tube and was used for both closed and open emissions.  Don't ask me why a closed emissions system has a vented cap on the oil filler tube, when the oil filler tube is connected to the air cleaner base for closed crankcase air flow.  GT350 closed emissions use a non-vented cap that hooks to the air cleaner base.

[shelbydoug]

Those two Scott Drake pieces are for open crankcase or closed pcv?

Villages can go many directions. It's important to avoid the "Village of the Damned".

The larger, twist in, 6766-12A is for the drivers side valve cover, non-emissions, or "cookie cutter" cap on closed system.
  The small, push on, 6766-5, goes on the intake oil filler tube and was used for both closed and open emissions.  Don't ask me why a closed emissions system has a vented cap on the oil filler tube, when the oil filler tube is connected to the air cleaner base for closed crankcase air flow.  GT350 closed emissions use a non-vented cap that hooks to the air cleaner base.

Whoever devised the closed emissions  system on the '67 GT500 shows a complete misunderstanding of how it is supposed to work. As a matter of fact it cannot work as built originally. It creates a big vacuum leak to the intake manifold.

I was just asking because the Scott Drake listing does not specify open or closed, it just states original applications which to me, as you pointed out, are confusing.

[Bob Gaines]

Those two Scott Drake pieces are for open crankcase or closed pcv?

Villages can go many directions. It's important to avoid the "Village of the Damned".

The larger, twist in, 6766-12A is for the drivers side valve cover, non-emissions, or "cookie cutter" cap on closed system.
  The small, push on, 6766-5, goes on the intake oil filler tube and was used for both closed and open emissions.  Don't ask me why a closed emissions system has a vented cap on the oil filler tube, when the oil filler tube is connected to the air cleaner base for closed crankcase air flow.  GT350 closed emissions use a non-vented cap that hooks to the air cleaner base.

Whoever devised the closed emissions  system on the '67 GT500 shows a complete misunderstanding of how it is supposed to work. As a matter of fact it cannot work as built originally. It creates a big vacuum leak to the intake manifold.

I was just asking because the Scott Drake listing does not specify open or closed, it just states original applications which to me, as you pointed out, are confusing.

They are open emission caps "that is just the way it is "as quoted from Special Ed. It isn't Ford writing the applications it is someone who works for NPD . Unfortunately you have to look passed their good intentions of being accurate and take there descriptions with a grain of salt.