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Can I match the red oxide primer on the under side with a rattle can?

Started by shelbydoug, January 01, 2024, 09:30:10 AM

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shelbydoug

My car knows what period it is from but I'm unsure. It is a first week of June build date and from what I can find, it appears to be more brown then Salmon.

I will point out "Agent J" that you responded that "Salmon isn't even close" but then go on to list a "Salmon era".

Look. I am accustomed to being stuck in a revolving door and rationalizing that it was briefly fun but I'm refocusing, and focusing for me granted can at times be a challenge, but now if I go salmon from firewall rear, is firewall forward oxide red-ish...maybe? Oh...there goes the spinning again? It kinds of feels like I took a turn too hard and just spun off the track again? I hate that feeling. It does a job on my gut like the elevator just dropped too fast.  ::)
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

TOBKOB

Hey Doug,
I'm sure that Jeff will respond but I'm pretty sure he was referring to the Krylon Fusion Satin Red as not even close... :)

TOB
1969 GT350 owned since 1970

Bob Gaines

Quote from: TOBKOB on January 03, 2024, 09:01:34 AM
Hey Doug,
I'm sure that Jeff will respond but I'm pretty sure he was referring to the Krylon Fusion Satin Red as not even close... :)

TOB
+1
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

shelbydoug

As I said, "Wifey" says I am color blind. I think it is more that I tend towards stupid but the only solution is color chips.

I work in Primary colors generally speaking. I have noticed lately that sometimes black cars look green to me though?

I'm thinking of a multi color solution now but I'm concerned that it might look too much like camouflage?

Fortunately many here tend to be thick skinned and don't easily take to offense by misguided individuals such as myself?


I actually have found that Rustoleum-red oxide primer (except for the flatness) resembles the rear of the cars original color? I thought I could shoot semi-gloss clear over that? It kind of matches the description of the "muddy brown"?


Dave. Is 3002 a GT500?
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

JD

'67 Shelby Headlight Bucket Grommets https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=254.0
'67 Shelby Lower Grille Edge Protective Strip https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=1237.0

shelbymann1970

Quote from: Bill Collins on January 02, 2024, 12:09:51 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on January 01, 2024, 07:42:09 PM
........I'm trying to decide the best course of action for my '67. It was a Gotham Ford car and is so typical of Bill Kolb sales has a heavy undercoating on it. Cleaning that stuff off is time consuming and will detract from my time of contemplating the meaning of life and what is the Universe. So I thought I would revisit this thread with a different approach?

In my view, the best approach to this situation is dry ice blasting. Although it can be costly, it is the most effective means of fully removing undercoat without affecting the underlying red primer. By way of illustration, attached is an "in process" photo of a '70 Boss 302 that we are working on. This shot shows one side as undercoated and the other after being dry ice blasted.
Bill what you are exposing isn't the original factory materials, correct? You are just showing the outcome of dry ice blasting.
Shelby owner since 1984
SAAC member since 1990
1970 GT350 4 speed(owned since 1985).
  MCA gold 2003(not anymore)
1969 Mach1 428SCJ 4 speed R-code (owned since 2013)
"2nd" owner of 68 GT500 #1626

shelbymann1970

Couldn't you take DP74LF and tint it to get what you would want in a primer sealer for the floors? Is it possible? Has anyone tried it?
Shelby owner since 1984
SAAC member since 1990
1970 GT350 4 speed(owned since 1985).
  MCA gold 2003(not anymore)
1969 Mach1 428SCJ 4 speed R-code (owned since 2013)
"2nd" owner of 68 GT500 #1626

J_Speegle

Quote from: shelbymann1970 on January 03, 2024, 12:09:28 PM
Couldn't you take DP74LF and tint it to get what you would want in a primer sealer for the floors? Is it possible? Has anyone tried it?

Yes have done it many times with the original lead and then the non-lead version. Played with this in the 80's and had a very nice local paint shop where we worked through about 40 versions before we got to something that matched what I was doing at the time. Back in the old days when little weights were used to measure and balance the tints. Think there were six in our final mix.
Just used the tints from the regular PPG/Ditzler line at the time
Jeff Speegle- Mustang & Shelby detail collector, ConcoursMustang.com mentor :) and Judge

jk66gt350

I checked my notes and found the reference to Krylon Fusion Satin Brick (#2733) that I was remembering.  It was on the Concours Mustang forum in November 2020 and was an exchange of info between Jeff and JBSpeednut.  https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=20489.0

Bill Collins

QuoteBill what you are exposing isn't the original factory materials, correct? You are just showing the outcome of dry ice blasting.

No, the exposed primer is the factory original. The car was with the original owner until early 2023.
Enthusiast since 1965, SAAC charter member since 1975 and Regional Rep since 1985, GT350 Owner since 1971, 289 Cobra owner 1979-2016, Ford GT owner 2006 - 2017

kkupec02

A couple of years ago, I wanted to make a factory 1967 GTA coupe a little more correct than when I got it. I got under the car and used a putty knife and gasoline to scrape off the black undercoat. Probably 95% came off without taking off the factory primer or drips. I then tested about 5 makers of red oxide primers and found one to be a really good match for my San Jose car. I then rattle canned the bottom. Not really concours, but more appealing than what it was before.
1967 GT500 #817
1967 Corvette Roadster