GT350 clutch linkage alignment

[bhoulis]

Today I mocked up my engine , hipo exhaust manifolds, hipo h-pipe, 390GT clutch fork and hipo z-bar.I'm wondering if this looks correct. (Hope the pics load, first time following the tutorial) There seems to be quite a bit of misalignment between the lower arm of the z-bar and the end of the clutch fork, almost 3 inches, which I believe is the approximate difference in length between the 390 and 289 clutch forks. The fist pic shows an aluminum bar held from the z-bar rod attaching point to the clutch fork "push point". Looks like a pretty radical angle that would put alot of twisting on the z-bar and rod. Z-bar and fork were purchased from vendors who are on these forums, both from the upper midwest, so I'm pretty sure they sold me the right pieces. Bellhousing is a C5DA-A piece, if that matters. Any help appreciated. Brian

[Bob Gaines]

Today I mocked up my engine , hipo exhaust manifolds, hipo h-pipe, 390GT clutch fork and hipo z-bar.I'm wondering if this looks correct. (Hope the pics load, first time following the tutorial) There seems to be quite a bit of misalignment between the lower arm of the z-bar and the end of the clutch fork, almost 3 inches, which I believe is the approximate difference in length between the 390 and 289 clutch forks. The fist pic shows an aluminum bar held from the z-bar rod attaching point to the clutch fork "push point". Looks like a pretty radical angle that would put alot of twisting on the z-bar and rod. Z-bar and fork were purchased from vendors who are on these forums, both from the upper midwest, so I'm pretty sure they sold me the right pieces. Bellhousing is a C5DA-A piece, if that matters. Any help appreciated. Brian

Brian if the vendors sold you a Z bar then that is your problem . The 67/68 hipo Z bar is not reproduced. You will have to use the normal SB clutch fork if using a 66 hipo Z Bar.

[bhoulis]

So.......... That z-bar I posted a pic of isn't a 67 style hipo bar, The vendor said it was the last of a run he had made a few years back. If not a 67 then what is it, or close to? Does anyone have a pic of an authentic 67 hipo z-bar? B

[Bob Gaines]

So.......... That z-bar I posted a pic of isn't a 67 style hipo bar, The vendor said it was the last of a run he had made a few years back. If not a 67 then what is it, or close to? Does anyone have a pic of an authentic 67 hipo z-bar? B

I wasn't aware that anyone reproed that particular Z bar. It looks close from what I can see in the picture but can't be for sure without a side profile shot.

[bhoulis]

Side view as requested. The difficulty I see is that the lower arm, when looking at the piece front to back, or perpendicularly to the round tube,  should be more in line with the upper bar. This would move it over the approximate 3 inch difference to compensate for the longer 390 fork. I have yet to find a picture of a verified 67 hipo bar.  I put in a request for a pic at Concours Mustang Forums. Hopefully something surfaces. Roswell aliens, Loch Ness monster, 67 Hipo z-bars. The search goes on. B

[JD]

Maybe a repro'd Boss 302 styled Z-bar, that can work with on '67's GT350's, but as Bob stated not correct.

[Bossbill]

That's what the Z bar in my 70 Boss looks like.

I appear to be in the same boat as houlis.

[shelbydoug]

If you want the clutch to work right, you need to make your own z-bar. Your observation about where the lower arm should be located is correct. The thing also needs to be at least heat treated but would be better to just reinforce it on both arms by doubling the thickness.

If you don't, it is going to twist like a pretzel unless you use it with the original 2600 pound clutch. That was never serviced through Ford. It was only a production line part.

The replacement clutch Ford parts sold was 2800 pounds. A standard street aftermarket clutch is going to be in the 3,000-3,200 range and will turn that z-bar into a wet noodle.

It would also be an excellent idea to replace the plastic bearings with real roller bearings.

[67350#1242]

Here are pictures of C7ZZ-7528-H NOS Ford service part for reference.  (from VMF post in 2016)

[bhoulis]

Thanks for the replies. Looking into oilite bushings to replace the crappy plastic ones. I can't imagine they lasted more than a month or two when these cars were daily drivers. At this point I would just like to see a picture of an assembly line z-bar. I'm trying to find pictures of the underside of restored cars hoping to see one. All i've seen so far are the B302 style arm and short fork. Fabricating one is an option down the road. Trying to stay as correct as possible but it seems these bars non existent. Like bigfoot and the Loch Ness monster, a lot of sightings but no good photos. B

[bhoulis]

Looks like they were servicing it with the B302 style. I wonder how many people got back to their garages with that piece and realized they would also have to change the fork. B

[67350#1242]

Looking into oilite bushings to replace the crappy plastic ones.

An EBay vendor carries brass bushings to replace the crappy plastic ones.  I've had some in my Shelby for 6 or 7 years and still working good and tight.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Early-Bronco-Early-Mustang-Clutch-rod-bushing-METAL-PN-EBMCRB/261464757864?hash=item3ce0839668:g:DtwAAOxy3yNTfCNE

[Bob Gaines]

Looking into oilite bushings to replace the crappy plastic ones.

An EBay vendor carries brass bushings to replace the crappy plastic ones.  I've had some in my Shelby for 6 or 7 years and still working good and tight.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Early-Bronco-Early-Mustang-Clutch-rod-bushing-METAL-PN-EBMCRB/261464757864?hash=item3ce0839668:g:DtwAAOxy3yNTfCNE

Cool.

[Bossbill]

Did that 20 years ago when I had clutch linkage issues on the B3. Still working.
You drill out the hole slightly bigger for an almost press fit and insert the oilite or sintered bronze bushing.

I too would love to see a picture. From what little I can make out of other cars, the top curved portion may be correct.

[roddster]

  Seems to me the clutch throw out arm is too long.  The arm of the cross shaft almost aligns with the block edge on my GT 350.  Your clutch throwout arm end seem too far left. (wrong side of the exhaust pipe)