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Under dash clutch pedal spring

Started by deathsled, June 07, 2024, 07:21:32 PM

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deathsled

I spoke to Mustang Restorations in East Dundee about getting my steering wheel notch straight and a new alignment which is going to happen this coming week.  I also happened to ask if they could install the secondary clutch spring that goes under the dash and he told me it is a day's work.  A total nightmare to do.  That the steering column needs to be dropped and the steering box removed to get the pedal down far enough to get the plastic half moon grommets on and the spring attached.  He said one guy did it himself only by cutting a hole in the floor to get that clutch pedal down far enough so he could fit the spring on.  The hole was rewelded shut after the procedure. That is a no starter for me.  Mustang Restorations said the problem is that the pedal needs to go down an inch or so further beyond the bottom of the floor to get the spring on.  Does anyone have experience putting the secondary spring on without so much of the drama?  I considered doing it myself but the arduous description is a disincentive.
"Low she sits on five spoke wheels
Small block eight so live she feels
There she's parked beside the curb
Engine revving to disturb
She's the princess from his past
Red paint gold stripes damned she's fast"

98SVT - was 06GT

If that guy can't figure out how to put the spring on I wouldn't trust him doing any work on my car. It's a pain but you can do it. It's a pain to take the bracket out but you can change all the parts on it without taking it out. PS a big screwdriver is your friend.
Previous owner 6S843 - GT350H & 68 GT500 Convert #135.
Mine: GT1 Mustang, 1998 SVT 32V, 1929 Model A Coupe, Wife's: 2004 Tbird
Member since 1975 - priceless

Bob Gaines

#2
Quote from: deathsled on June 07, 2024, 07:21:32 PMI spoke to Mustang Restorations in East Dundee about getting my steering wheel notch straight and a new alignment which is going to happen this coming week.  I also happened to ask if they could install the secondary clutch spring that goes under the dash and he told me it is a day's work.  A total nightmare to do.  That the steering column needs to be dropped and the steering box removed to get the pedal down far enough to get the plastic half moon grommets on and the spring attached.  He said one guy did it himself only by cutting a hole in the floor to get that clutch pedal down far enough so he could fit the spring on.  The hole was rewelded shut after the procedure. That is a no starter for me.  Mustang Restorations said the problem is that the pedal needs to go down an inch or so further beyond the bottom of the floor to get the spring on.  Does anyone have experience putting the secondary spring on without so much of the drama?  I considered doing it myself but the arduous description is a disincentive.
Those guys ether didn't want to do the work and were making excuses or they don't know how to do the job. Ether way shame on them. Yes it is hard . I did one recently because I had to take the pedal assembly out that holds the pedals for another reason. I was actually after a pedal bracket with pit free metal . The bracket holds the pedals. With the assembly out of the car the clutch pedal can go back far enough to remove the spring. I have done it before with a pry bar to stretch the spring and not taking out the bracket . Like I said I needed to take the bracket out for another reason. Maybe there is a easier way but this is my way to get the pedal bracket out. I took the front seat out to have better access regardless of procedure. I had to drop the column and take the column tube out of the car leaving the steering box and shaft up through the firewall in place. I took the driver side vent out for more access. You have to disconnect the master cylinder from the pedal and brake switch and clutch rod. I was removing the wiper motor anyway so I can't say for sure if that needs to be taken out to drop the pedal assembly or not because it has been awhile that I had to do it in a 65/66. Believe it or not this is a short answer. I didn't describe every single step or mention all the different curse words that I needed to use but you can get the idea. Like I said this is to take out the pedal assembly.  Regardless of how you proceed (ether way is hard) at least it is far from taking out the steering box/shaft and cutting a hole in the floor (that's just silly).  I wouldn't waste my time trying to explain any of this to your so called restoration shop because I wouldn't trust them after what you said they told you. 
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

JD

Been there, done that, NOT FUN.

No cutting, yes to the BIG screwdriver
'67 Shelby Headlight Bucket Grommets https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=254.0
'67 Shelby Lower Grille Edge Protective Strip https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=1237.0

JWH

Take the time to remove the front seat as Bob mentions. You are going to be working under the dash for a good amount of time and this will make the job much more comfortable. This is a job you absolutely can do. Give yourself several nights to get it done, be patient and take your time. And no way, no how do you need to cut a hole in the floor - good grief.

Coralsnake

#5
There seems to be a consensus that its a big job. I didnt get the impression that the shop didnt want to do the job, just wanted to explain how labor intensive it was.

The story of the floor being cut, was not a suggestion, it was how one person solved the problem.

I dont think anyone else would agree with that on a Shelby

How about you get the original parts instead of the cheap off shore garbage or you will be doing it twice.

The original Influencer, check out www.thecoralsnake.com

greekz

I agree that going the extra mile to remove the pedal assembly will allow you to inspect, lubricate, and replace any worn components.  You do not want to do the job twice because of worn bushings.
SFM 6S1134  '67 GT-350 #2339

JD

Quote from: greekz on June 08, 2024, 11:22:39 AMI agree that going the extra mile to remove the pedal assembly will allow you to inspect, lubricate, and replace any worn components.  You do not want to do the job twice because of worn bushings.

Yes, look at the '66 Ford service manual identify all the parts (including the ones you may not have) and order all of them.
'67 Shelby Headlight Bucket Grommets https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=254.0
'67 Shelby Lower Grille Edge Protective Strip https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=1237.0

deathsled

Quote from: Coralsnake on June 08, 2024, 07:29:52 AMThere seems to be a consensus that its a big job. I didnt get the impression that the shop didnt want to do the job, just wanted to explain how labor intensive it was.

The story of the floor being cut, was not a suggestion, it was how one person solved the problem.

I dont think anyone else would agree with that on a Shelby

How about you get the original parts instead of the cheap off shore garbage or you will be doing it twice.


I found a redone spring on ebay but isn't the tensile strength gone out of it for being used and so many years old?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256268886473
"Low she sits on five spoke wheels
Small block eight so live she feels
There she's parked beside the curb
Engine revving to disturb
She's the princess from his past
Red paint gold stripes damned she's fast"

Bob Gaines

The repro in your beginning post will be fine if you already bought it. A used spring should not offer any problems ether. It is apparently not been a problem in the past with a used one failing. At least in all my years I have not had a problem or heard of others that have had a problem using a used pedal return spring. Consequently a diminished tensile strength of a used Mustang spring is apparently not a issue.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby