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Suggestions/experiences with hard brake lines

Started by TS69GT500, September 12, 2024, 09:43:11 AM

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TS69GT500

For replacement hard brake lines I'd like some opinions/suggestions.
Stainless or regular mild steel ?
Also, any preference for supplier,  Classic Tube or Fine Lines.

Thanks,
TonyS

Royce Peterson

The terne plated originals will outlast you. Both vendors make a good product, one is not better than the other. I would find the best price and go with that.
1968 Cougar XR-7 GT-E 427 Side Oiler C6 3.50 Detroit Locker
1968 1/2 Cougar XR-7 428CJ Ram Air C6 3.91 Traction Lock

FL SAAC

What Mr Royce said is true, either or you choose

We went with CC I believe because they had the correct type rear rubber hose for our 69 and its 9 inch rear

Best of luck on your voyage
When you arise in the morning, think of what a precious privilege it is to be alive to breathe, to think, to enjoy, to love. ~
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Augustus

Home of the Amazing Hertz 3 + 1 Musketeers

I have all UNGOLD cars

Road Reptile

Hi,
One more supply company is Inline tube. Have had very decent service and they make very
Nice rear brake cables also in stainless steel if desired. Best way to look after brakes is to flush and replace fluid every 3 years. Or if you start fresh use silicone fluid and unless you are planning to get on the track it should be good for even longer. Works excellent in a show car that is not used/driven much, and will not harm paint. Hope this helps. R.R.

vtgt500

Great question.  I purchased my '68 GT500 for $3000 in 1977.  It has been huge source of joy for 47 years.  Every element has ben the very best money can buy.  Including a brand new, unassembled, side oiler engine built by Roush in '79 to mirror the Lemans winning GT40.  When it came time for a money-no-option, full restoration 20 years ago the brake line choice was clear, Classic Tube. The fit is perfect. Perhaps more important, both the nut and tube are stainless.  No worries of a soft, carbon steel nut rotting in place on a either the master or wheel cylinders.  The trick is, necessary to use nickel anti seize on both the treads and surfaces between the flare and nut.  Or they will gall and prevent proper tightening.  Just this summer, I took the car out of storage after 14 years. A full inspection found no flaws or leaks anywhere.  Last Saturday, a douchebag cut me off in heavy traffic. The perfect brakes prevented a serious crash.

98SVT - was 06GT

Don't use silicone fluid. A friend had a nice real 32 Ford Roadster. The silicon fluid did not absorb moisture so it sat in the low spots and allows the master cylinder piston to rust in place (sitting for 3 years). It felt like he had brakes as he was hitting the VW parked in the driveway.
https://www.g-locbrakes.com/faqwd/a-word-of-caution-silicone-brake-fluids/

Silicone brake fluids can have several problems, including:
Long pedal travel: Silicone brake fluids are highly compressible, which can cause the brake pedal to feel spongy and have long travel.
Bleeding difficulties: Silicone brake fluids have high viscosity, which can cause slow filling rates and retention of free air. This can make bleeding difficult.
Immiscibility with water: Silicone brake fluids are not miscible with water.
Should not be mixed: Silicone brake fluids should never be mixed with other brake fluids.
Silicone brake fluids are often used in classic and vintage cars, as well as military vehicles. They are hydrophobic, meaning they repel water, and they do not corrode internal brake parts or damage paint.
Previous owner 6S843 - GT350H & 68 GT500 Convert #135.
Mine: GT1 Mustang, 1998 SVT 32V, 1929 Model A Coupe, Wife's: 2004 Tbird
Member since 1975 - priceless