Day Two Enhancements to a 2016 GTH

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Continuing our HEAT SINK study

The "real" 2016 Shelby Hertz hood does an excellent job in extracting heat from your supercharger in traffic and when moving.

The "heritage" cars hood is suspect in extraction. It reminds me of the 2006 and 2007 GTH hood that some even cut up to introduce air into the engine compartment.

Again very nice looking, very pleasing to the eye. But not as efficient as "The Real Ones" hood on the previous post.


Your thoughts?

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Here is another item to assist you, a oversized heat exchanger

While the standard Whipple system features the largest LTR of any legal supercharger kit, the new high capacity LTR takes performance to an entirely new level.

The all aluminum heat exchanger features a new dual pass design, dual 3/4" ID inlet/out fitting, natural race finish and 3.1" thick core for uncomprimised capacity.

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Ofcourse you can't miss this upgrade of dual electric fans

This will lower your manifold air temps and increase heat exchanger efficiency?

Whipple designed this bolt-on, dual 11" Spal high speed fan kit to mount to the massive high density heat exchanger in a matter of minutes.

The Whipple upgrade kit comes with the pigtails required for plug and play installation.

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Continuing with the all important cooling on a supercharged vehicle

Whipple suggested 50/50 water to the stock Ford coolant. If you are in cooler areas, operating to Floridaland we deviated from this mix ratio.

I followed those instructions and still noticed that my CHTs were a little too high for my liking. I ran it like that for a while and even had a dyno day where the car made well over 1,000+ rwhp. I thought that was rather respectable, but after three pulls the heat soak was obvious with the car only made 900+/- . We drained the coolant from the radiator and whatever free flowed from the engine without flushing it and just topped it back off with distilled water.

Today it's probably more like 80/20 or 85/15 water to coolant give or take a few with the coolant that was trapped in the heater core and engine.

We also added a bottle of water wetter. Old CHTs were consistently over 215 degrees and went beyond 235 after a pull. Now temps stay at 180 and rarely get over 200 even after a wot pull on the hottest days.

The mix is key here and adding a coolant/ water enhancement like water wetter redline, vp  cool down, hypercool is definitely a big plus ONE

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Your goal is to monitor your temperature,  I follow the cylinder head temperature on my gauge.

Our goal is for it to be at around 185/200 and no more than 215/220 under normal driving conditions.

Remember that CHT does not equal coolant temperatures

Your radiator is handicapped by the stock thermostat. Again we installed a Reische 170 degree thermostat (and our tune also helps to make sure the fans turn on earlier) a major cooling improvement.

Be concerned at the 235 degrees and up range.

Also may I add that general rule for cylinder head temperature is that it is around 10-15 degrees hotter than coolant temperatures in your radiator  which puts your radiator coolant temps much cooler.

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boys and girls look what happens when it gets chilly in Floridaland

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Just Don't Panic interpret the signals

You have to remember also these new cars are designed to kinda sorta assist you through your crisis.

Also the ECU won't cut power until your temps hit 300, so anything up to about 270 or so is within the range that Ford thinks is ok. 

But, but, but when you get into this heat range your car will be essentially "WhippleLESS" running close to its original stock HP rating or possibly less...

And I dont want to confuse you with the EOT Engine Oil Temps, that's a completely different topic.

The range that the ECU starts pulling / shutting down power is around 280 to 315 degrees range.

Let me tell you CHT is usually a bit higher than EOT and a lot higher than ECT, just monitor closely to avoid the dreaded heat sink.

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Sway bars, we had the Ford performance sway bars.

We went with a firmer and bigger rear drag sway bar.

It provides substantially reduced body roll to support high horsepower applications through any drag race requirements.

This drag race rear sway bar will make sure to keep your car pointed straight down the track, no matter how much power you're making.

Its a welded billet ends on the Drag Race Rear Sway Bar for the S550/S650 far stronger than stamping the end of the bar.

Billet-machining construction of the sway bar ends makes for far greater strength for a bulletproof sway bar, that can take a beating no matter how much power your Mustang is putting down.

The sway bars are equipped with machined steel billet sway bar ends.

This sway bar ends are machined out of billet steel round stock and go through hundreds of computer simulations to ensure the ultimate in strength and performance - this provides greater resistance to bending stresses, and has three major advantages:

These parts are less prone to cracking/fatigue failure on the ends themselves.

Billet sway bar ends reduce unwanted deflection - excess deflection creates unwanted geometry changes, which physically changes your sway bar stiffness to a non-ideal rate.


 Mustang Drag Race Rear Sway Bar to reduce body roll and improve stability during hard launches. The added stability that this solid drag race rear sway bar offers will keep your Mustang pointed straight.

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The key here is that the rear drag bar is designed to maximize weight transfer to the rear wheels during launch, by being significantly stiffer and often only installed on the rear axle, whereas a regular sway bar aims to balance body roll during cornering by resisting roll on both axles, making it less suitable for the specific needs of drag racing where quick weight transfer is crucial; essentially, a drag sway bar prioritizes straight-line stability over cornering ability.

Having said that is it "really a rough ride" ?

A tad yes but not like a wooden kart.

As far as it not handling as good with the drag bar, our car handles like a train on rails due to the lowering and all the other additional components added to the front and rear suspension.

Safe to say it's a rocket on rails

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From the guy who brought you the "Best Deals on Shelbeee Parts" and who wrote the book "How to Acelratus Rapidus" the one the only your Uncle Tony brings you:

Thermostats

https://www.lethalperformance.com/info/thermostats?srsltid=AfmBOorg4DoQ_ZzUV7o6Vr9hARTYJl1xLkO8KgtnFusfbXCDhOLKFo8j

We in Floridaland are extremely fortunate to have several of the finest shops , programmers and tinuers for you late model monsters.

I told you about keeping it cool

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Welcome to the game of.....JEOPARDY !

"What is Traction"

What tire to use Michelin, Continental,  Pirelli Goodyear, Falken,  Hancock, Yokohama or whomever.

Let me say it truly does not matter.

These all are very nice premium tires, they drive well, handle well, if properly inflated, balanced and rotated they will last 25,000 + miles.

Does size matter?

Yes and No

This is when tire compound is considered more important than tire width.

Let me mention that wider tires on these brands don't really matter on finding that elusive traction.

Dont get me wrong I said traction, not cornering or handling.

Remember traction and Whipple should not be expressed in the same sentence.

Or maybe....

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You need to find a nice 100 to 300 thread wear tire.  These tires should last you any where  from 1,500 to 6,000

Here are some examples:

Hoosiers

The Track Attack Pro is Hoosier's Streetable Track & Competition tire designed for the drivers of sports cars, hot hatches, and supercars who are looking for motorsports levels of traction and handling for track day events in a tire that can still be driven on the street to and from the event. Tuned for maximum performance in warm, dry and damp conditions, the Track Attack Pro is not intended to be serviced, stored, nor driven in near- and below-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice.

Toyo's R888R

The Proxes R888R is a semi-race tire with a race tread compound. It's designed for track days, road racing, and high-performance driver education events. 

The Proxes R888R has an increased contact patch, which improves dry traction and performance over multiple laps and heat cycles. 

The Proxes R888R has a semi-race construction, which is very stiff

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NT555RII

Features race compound for increased traction at the starting line.

The large twin center ribs provide a continuous contact patch for dry traction.

The sidewall construction has been modified to improve launch for better 60' times.

Atturo AZ850

As an ultra-high-performance tire, the AZ850 needs certain features that will allow it to perform at a high level.

Softer, "stickier" tread formulation delivers strong braking and cornering capabilitiesDesigned to resist heat buildup, which prevents uneven wear

Two steel belts, jointless nylon cap ply, and high bead filler all contribute to high-speed stability

Continuous center rib for straight-line stability along with quick steering response

Asymmetric tread pattern with larger tread blocks toward shoulder for enhanced cornering ability

Lateral grooves, and deep circumferential grooves channel water away to avoid hydroplaning and boost wet-weather traction

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M&H Race Master

M&H brings you the latest in drag racing tires technology with the Drag Radial ''Front Runners'' and ''Cheater Slicks''. These DOT-approved tires are available in popular sizes to fit classic and modern muscle cars and trucks. The radial ''Front Runners'' are designed to appear similar to the rears while offering low rolling resistance. The rear ''Cheater Slicks'' feature an exclusively sticky tread rubber and lightweight design developed for maximum drag racing performance.

Mickey Thompson SS

D.O.T. approved for street use
Equivalent tread void as the ET Street Radial II, redistributed for improved hydroplane resistance while providing plenty of tread contact for excellent dry traction

Proven R2 compound, the same proven compound used on the quickest "drag radials" on the planet provides superior traction at the strip with little or no burnout required

Tubeless construction provides leak-free seal without the expense and hassle of tubes

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So do you run a open air or closed air filtration system?


Closed air box benefits

A closed air filter box with a Whipple supercharger is generally considered better because it helps maintain cooler intake air temperatures by preventing hot air from the engine bay from entering the intake, leading to improved performance compared to an open air box; this is especially beneficial when paired with a supercharger which relies on dense, cool air for optimal power delivery.

Cooler air intake:
The closed design draws air from a cooler area away from the engine, resulting in denser air which can improve combustion and horsepower.

Reduced heat soak:
By preventing direct engine bay heat from reaching the intake, a closed box helps to minimize "heat soak" which can negatively impact performance

Better air filtration:
A closed box can provide better protection for the air filter from dirt and debris.