1969 Shelby fog light wiring at starter relay and voltage regulator

[anghelrestorations]

Im chasing an electrical issue here tonight on a 69 GT500 I am finishing.  Everything runs and drives and works perfect....except the fog lights. 

Inside the car the interior light switch works with no problem in the console.  But when turning on the fog light switch it just clicks the relay on and off every 5 seconds and the fog lights never turn on.  I  have a complete extra gauge and switch console that I swapped out and does the exact same thing.

So I think something isnt wired here correctly.  Can someone confirm the routing of the three wires here at the voltage regulator, starter solenoid, junction block? 
First picture below is just a reference photo I pulled from Bring a Trailer (Nate Jones) Shelby that recently sold.

2025-02-20_21-11-19 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

20250220_222819 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr



   

[anghelrestorations]

So a copy and paste what Bob Gaines posted on another thread is exactly how I have things wired.....so I must have some other issues.  Working thru that now to figure it out.

The separate fog light harness is the one you are talking about. The longest black 10 gauge wire with stepped terminal end goes on the positive side terminal of the starter solenoid . The shorter black/yellow 10 gauge wire goes to the junction block. The 10 gauge black and yellow power wire from the alternator also goes to the junction block. The 22 gauge black wire coming out of the fog light harness is a ground that goes to the regulator /condenser screw.  With this wiring configuration all of the power from the alternator runs through the amp gauge and back to the the battery and rest of the electrical system. I hope this helps.

[Road Reptile]

Hi Marcus,
Just to test a few things in order-do the fog lamps work if you power them direct ?
If so then they have a good ground. If not I would think you have a ground fault.
Fog lamps are high (30) amps and must have a good ground to allow current flow..the relay will operate and does not require very much current to trip....this is what fools most people-they think that there is not enough power-yet the problem is not a good ground.Often caused by thick paint and failure of a toothed washer to bite into bare metal. Hope this helps.
R.R.

[Bob Gaines]

So a copy and paste what Bob Gaines posted on another thread is exactly how I have things wired.....so I must have some other issues.  Working thru that now to figure it out.

The separate fog light harness is the one you are talking about. The longest black 10 gauge wire with stepped terminal end goes on the positive side terminal of the starter solenoid . The shorter black/yellow 10 gauge wire goes to the junction block. The 10 gauge black and yellow power wire from the alternator also goes to the junction block. The 22 gauge black wire coming out of the fog light harness is a ground that goes to the regulator /condenser screw.  With this wiring configuration all of the power from the alternator runs through the amp gauge and back to the the battery and rest of the electrical system. I hope this helps.

Marcus, for clarification the way that the 69/70 is wired from the foglight harness is as follows (reference the unattached 3 wires from the foglight harness in your picture)  the longer 10 gauge black wire with the round terminal end goes on the positive side of the solenoid . The shorter ten gauge black with yellow tracer wire with serrated inner terminal end goes on the junction block. The thin black wire with serrated inner terminal is grounded at the lower regulator screw. This wiring placement runs all of the power from the car through the Amp gauge and is the way the factory did it.

[Coralsnake]

If you need a picture let me know

[anghelrestorations]

I have it all sorted out....I will post an update with photos later tonight. 

[Shelbypat]

Im chasing an electrical issue here tonight on a 69 GT500 I am finishing.  Everything runs and drives and works perfect....except the fog lights. 

Inside the car the interior light switch works with no problem in the console.  But when turning on the fog light switch it just clicks the relay on and off every 5 seconds and the fog lights never turn on.  I  have a complete extra gauge and switch console that I swapped out and does the exact same thing.

So I think something isnt wired here correctly.  Can someone confirm the routing of the three wires here at the voltage regulator, starter solenoid, junction block? 
First picture below is just a reference photo I pulled from Bring a Trailer (Nate Jones) Shelby that recently sold.

2025-02-20_21-11-19 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

20250220_222819 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr



   

Hi.under the console, it is not a relay. It is a 30 amp thermal breaker which  will pop out and on automaticaly. it will sound like a relay if you got overloaded. I would check the load with an ampmeter beside the breaker first.

Patrick

[anghelrestorations]

Thanks for all the input.  I was able to fix the fog lights and isolated two problems.

Problem 1:
The reproduction fog light wire harness has two wires that are crossed.  Not sure why.  I was able to do a side by side comparison and also trace the wires so that I could confirm they are wrong.  I have two reproduction harnesses and one original.  Both reproductions are incorrect so anyone else doing this will have the same problem with the current harness you can buy.  Original harness is on the top in the photo. 

Problem 2:
One of the fog lights had a short in it.  That was causing a problem in the system.  When I disconnected it and replaced it with another one it works perfect now.

2025-02-21_19-58-32 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

20250221_191642 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

[Bob Gaines]

Man that sucks big time . Sorry to hear about the no doubt hours spent because of a careless mix up by the MFG. It must be a recent bad batch. Thanks for posting a resolution to your problem with picture examples which others should remember to do as it help others. I have a couple older repro foglight harness on the shelf that I will be checking now myself.

[Coralsnake]

Sorry to hear that as well.

Its unusual, but its not unheard of. Most of the cases I have seen have been pinned connections.

[FL SAAC]

Who doggie that blows,  but thanks for the info

Thanks for all the input.  I was able to fix the fog lights and isolated two problems.

Problem 1:
The reproduction fog light wire harness has two wires that are crossed.  Not sure why.  I was able to do a side by side comparison and also trace the wires so that I could confirm they are wrong.  I have two reproduction harnesses and one original.  Both reproductions are incorrect so anyone else doing this will have the same problem with the current harness you can buy.  Original harness is on the top in the photo. 

Problem 2:
One of the fog lights had a short in it.  That was causing a problem in the system.  When I disconnected it and replaced it with another one it works perfect now.

2025-02-21_19-58-32 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

20250221_191642 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

[Coralsnake]

Marcus, sent you a note. Get with me and I can get you a solution

[Bill]

Thanks for all the input.  I was able to fix the fog lights and isolated two problems.

Problem 1:
The reproduction fog light wire harness has two wires that are crossed.  Not sure why.  I was able to do a side by side comparison and also trace the wires so that I could confirm they are wrong.  I have two reproduction harnesses and one original.  Both reproductions are incorrect so anyone else doing this will have the same problem with the current harness you can buy.  Original harness is on the top in the photo. 

Problem 2:
One of the fog lights had a short in it.  That was causing a problem in the system.  When I disconnected it and replaced it with another one it works perfect now.

Seeing this reminds me of the exact same issue when I was putting 1584 back together 10+ years ago. Sitting in the car, I'm pulling my hair out, trying to figure out the issue, running things through my head, just sitting there going through my thought process one item at a time. Suddenly I look down, and my brain processed exactly what you found in your replacement harness, two wires transposed in the plug. Unplugged everything and used jumper wires with a fuse in each so I did not melt the harness down, and crossed the two, and suddenly everything worked as it should. Three days tracing wires, three days checking every connection, never thinking it could be so simple, or staring at me so blatantly clear that it was mind blowing.

Glad you figured it out without as much anxiety

Bill

[Coralsnake]

I have contacted Marcus and will make sure he gets a replacement at no charge.

The issue will be reported to the manufacturer so they can make an adjustment to their process

[Road Reptile]

Just another example of how a picture is worth 1000 words. Thanks for such a great follow up.
Very good work!!
One of the most important things to learn is NEVER dispose of original parts until the restoration is complete and functional. Ford also teaches us this by saying "Replace with a known good part" Just because it is new doesn't mean it is perfect. Thanks again for a well
Presented demo.
R.R.