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Engine Restoration

Started by jgroce1985, September 09, 2018, 08:24:50 AM

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jgroce1985

Okay everyone after much consideration I have decided to keep and start restoring my GT500. I'm wanting to see if anyone could help with a list of colors the engine and all the brackets need to be. I'm taking the block to a ford engine builder here in NC and he will give it back to me already broke in. I'll need to send the carbs, air cleaner, and valve covers off to get restored, but not sure who does this.  This car is all original so I'm wanting to go back as stock as I can possibly afford without doing a concourse restoration. My plans is to get the engine done and get her back on the road as a driver quality car. So he was asking me for the color codes on the entire engine, and all materials bolted to the engine. Thanks for any help or direction you could give me. I have restored multiple cars, but this is my first real shelby.

67KGTA

For your parts I would send them to a reputable shop so they are restored correctly and get returned without any issues.  I highly recommend Jim Cowles at Shelby Parts and Restorations.  Great guy and your parts will look amazing! Good luck with the car she sounds like a nice one!

Shawn

Send everything you have to Jim at Shelby Parts.  I would also recommend sending him your suspension and steering components as well.


corbins

"back as stock as I can possibly afford without doing a concourse restoration" 

jgroce1985

and here we go again^ ...Everytime I post I'm reminded of why I don't deal with this forum.

Chris Thauberger

Quote from: jgroce1985 on September 09, 2018, 09:04:02 PM
and here we go again^ ...Everytime I post I'm reminded of why I don't deal with this forum.

Yup, this place is not for everyone....
Previously owned:
1968 Shelby GT500 Gold Concourse
1973 Cougar
1968 Mustang coupe
1966 Mustang 4 speed vert
1965 Mustang coupe
1968 Cougar
1971 Montego
1968 Torino GT
1966 GT350H clone

jgroce1985

I'm not sure that's something I would brag about, or be proud of.

Anyways, thanks to the ones that suggested, as well as sent me PM's with contact info I really appreciate it.

BGlover67

Quote from: jgroce1985 on September 09, 2018, 09:04:02 PM
and here we go again^ ...Everytime I post I'm reminded of why I don't deal with this forum.

Holy cow!  How did it degenerate into this?  We have to stop the negativity or there soon won't be anyone left on here.  Conversely, don't let a simple remark sour you to the whole forum.  We all need thicker skins than that.
Thanks,
Brian R. Glover
SAAC Carolina's Northern Representative

Coralsnake

#8
Its not that difficult. The engine guys job is to get it running. You can do the detailing.

You can do this.... but there is no easy button. You will need to do a little research.

Im not 1967 guy, but let you man get the engine running and leave it unpainted or get a coat of primer on it if you are worried about flash rust.

I have a custom made engine stand I use. It lets the engine sit about six inches off the floor. A lot easier to move around and you cant drop the engine on the pan.

When the engine comes back, you will have to disassemble some of it for detailing and painting

Find a survivor or a show car, post the individual questions here. Im sure people will help.

The original Influencer, check out www.thecoralsnake.com

FL SAAC

Quote from: jgroce1985 on September 10, 2018, 06:59:02 AM
I'm not sure that's something I would brag about, or be proud of.

Anyways, thanks to the ones that suggested, as well as sent me PM's with contact info I really appreciate it.

+ 1 wishing you the best on your project and remember life is short,  enjoy the ride
When you arise in the morning, think of what a precious privilege it is to be alive to breathe, to think, to enjoy, to love. ~
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Augustus

Home of the Amazing Hertz 3 + 1 Musketeers

I have all UNGOLD cars

TOBKOB

[quote"back as stock as I can possibly afford without doing a concourse restoration"

QuoteYup, this place is not for everyone...

.
]Holy cow!  How did it degenerate into this? [/quote]

Everyone can't be in the 'elite' group but shouldn't be shamed.  :(

TOB
1969 GT350 owned since 1970

jswoody

Quote from: Coralsnake on September 10, 2018, 07:42:19 AM
Its not that difficult. The engine guys job is to get it running. You can do the detailing.

You can do this.... but there is no easy button. You will need to do a little research.

Im not 1967 guy, but let you man get the engine running and leave it unpainted or get a coat of primer on it if you are worried about flash rust.

I have a custom made engine stand I use. It lets the engine sit about six inches off the floor. A lot easier to move around and you cant drop the engine on the pan.

When the engine comes back, you will have to disassemble some of it for detailing and painting

Find a survivor or a show car, post the individual questions here. Im sure people will help.

Well put.  Enjoy the restoration jgroce1985, I'm sure it will be great.   

acman63

as Pete says,  get the parts in primer as you will end up detailing them twice if you have the engine run in . I used to do this on a stand I built but I started looking at the cost/benefits  and I now bring all our engine to a local shop and they put them on the dyno  which allows them to put some stress on the engine and break in the rings and the rest of the parts. They also set the timing proper,  set the carb close and check for leaks .   Running on a stand really doesnt do anything other than seeing if it leaks  if you get right down to it . 
I usually give them as few detailed parts as possible as they are in to functionality rather than being pretty.  so find a set of valve cover clean cores for a 390 and put the pretty Cobra ones On last

Have any questions   give me a shout 920 434 3645   
SAAC Concours Chairman

Owner Shelby Parts and Restoration Since 1977

SAAC original first year member

2112

What do you use to clean the engine after the Dyno run-in and before paint? Denatured alcohol?

jgroce1985

Thanks Everyone, I guess the builders questions are which brackets are black which are aluminum color, things of that nature. I have been trying to look at pictures of restored engines to give him this info to the best of my ability