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Staples for attaching rubber to splash shields

Started by 6s1640, October 09, 2018, 02:26:50 AM

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6s1640

Hi all,

Can someone advise a source for the OEM staple and the tool to attached the rubber to splash shields.   The OEM staples look like wire, round.

Are the staples in this kit correct?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Splash-Shield-Seal-Kit-1965-1966-Mustang/382585313467?hash=item5913dc98bb:g:7BoAAOSwFYZbu-5m&vxp=mtr

Is there a staple gun for installing these that will pierce the metal shield?

Looks like Brant sells the same kit:

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-66-SPLASH-SHIELD-RUBBER-KIT-P4332.aspx

Any help would be great.

Thank you

Cory

GT350Lad

I thought they looked pretty good mate. I bought a kit awhile back but haven't used it yet
6S373
6S1276

Coralsnake

I am not aware of a tool. They have to be hand set.

If someone knows of a stapler for the rubber to metal, I would love to see it.

:)
The original Influencer, check out www.thecoralsnake.com

kingchief

Please let us know how in works out Cory.

Thanks!

Steve
SFM 6S406

highland green

a friend and I did mine by hand. Not hard to do with good results ;D

acman63

just get some stainless steel wire the same diameter.  trying to get the staples in those holes is a pain.  snip them on the back side and fold over
SAAC Concours Chairman

Owner Shelby Parts and Restoration Since 1977

SAAC original first year member

CharlesTurner

I inquired to a tool company once to get an idea of what it would cost for a stapler machine to puncture the oem sheet metal thickness.  If I remember right, it was somewhere around $15k
Charles Turner
MCA/SAAC Judge

papa scoops

i'd be concerned about the build date on the staple. you need to make sure it has the correct manufactuers emblem on it, and the phosphare coating has to be the lighter shade. (joke) Cory, wouldn't it be easier to find nos shields? I would think they are pre assembled, and as many as were ordered and never installed... got to be a ton of them floating around. phred

CharlesTurner

Have never seen NOS splash shields with the rubber attached.  Ford actually serviced the rubber pieces, although ones I have seen were all smooth texture.

There are repro's that come with the rubber already stapled on... if someone wants an easy button.  They won't be date coded like originals though.
Charles Turner
MCA/SAAC Judge

6s1640

Quote from: papa scoops on October 09, 2018, 01:58:06 PM
i'd be concerned about the build date on the staple. you need to make sure it has the correct manufactuers emblem on it, and the phosphare coating has to be the lighter shade. (joke) Cory, wouldn't it be easier to find nos shields? I would think they are pre assembled, and as many as were ordered and never installed... got to be a ton of them floating around. phred

Hi Phred,

The problem with the NOS shields are they do not have the rubber.  I believe these staples are also the same on the AC/HiPo fan shroud rubber pad.  They are quite heavy duty.

Cory

CharlesTurner

Quote from: 6s1640 on October 09, 2018, 02:14:56 PM
The problem with the NOS shields are they do not have the rubber.  I believe these staples are also the same on the AC/HiPo fan shroud rubber pad.  They are quite heavy duty.


Yes, I would agree with that.

The trick to replicating the staples is to do the loops on the back.  Folding them over flat is not correct.  Requires a couple pairs of pliers with strong tips.  If I remember right, on 65-66, the back side of the staples are hidden, so not much of an issue.  Later years, on either the front or rears, the back of the staple shows.
Charles Turner
MCA/SAAC Judge

KR Convertible

And those factory staples are pretty hard, almost seems like spring temper.  Wrecked a couple pairs of pliers trying to straighten them.  They usually break before you get them straight.

Shawn

Took awhile but I made mine out of wire as jim says above in his reply.  Pull the ends thru, twist to tighten then push hard on the visible side to replicate the 90 degree staple look.  I used original shields held inplace the new rubber and drilled from the back thru the existing holes.  This allowed for the wire to pass thru into the original orientation.