GT500 Spark plug change procedure.

[Dan Case]

   Three foot long 3/8ths extension ( one piece not multiple extensions stacked) plus a plug socket with built in universal. 
    Randy

Something like this set of tools I have used on multiple cars including a 1967 GT500 show car. I gathered up these style of tools in the 1960s.  The spark plug boot tool below is the style I prefer but there are quite a few different designs made by several different companies. The long extension pictured has found use in many variations of Mustangs 1965-70 (including Boss 302s, Boss 429, 1965-1969 Shelbys, tractors, and a few original Cobras. I have no idea what I paid for it but after just under five decades of use it was certainly worth it.

[67350#1242]

If you give a task to 10 different people they will do it 10 different ways.

Amen, Brutha!

[gt350hr]

     427 heaven , I hope you aren't referring to my comment as that was NOT the intent, I should have explained more carefully that the reason for the 3 foot long extension is to get away from the tight quarters. The above pictures that Dan posted are similar to what I use. I bypass the rubber hose and use the special plug socket to start ( carefully) the plugs and run them down by hand to insure they aren't cross threaded.
       Like others I dreaded changing plugs on the 'family" 390 Ranchero. Using a 1/2" drive  plug socket , 8" extension and bulky ratchet had me hating life. Turning the ratchet one quarter turn at a time took forever. Trying to start plugs by hand was a nightmare. Help came one day while at the local drag strip where I saw Hubert Platt (rip) changing plugs on his '69 Super stock Mustang. He was using the super long extension and pulling plugs in nothing flat. No smog of course but the concept hit me. Get the ratchet OUT of the cramped area .Hubert also gave me some pointers on how to start the plugs using the long extension. I have done it that way ever since. It was so simple I kept thinking why didn't I think of that.? I then made some special tools for pulling and reattaching plug wires on the back cylinders.
   The FEs are easy compared to the new cars where half ( or more) of the engine is buried under the cowl. Thank goodness for EFI and 100,000 mile spark plugs!
     Randy

[427heaven]

Randy- No the response was to eight barrel who seemingly got pissed at some of the remarks made at how he does things. You and myself have some knowledge of repairing, tuning, old cars and it was just an example used at how to do this job as painless as possible. I responded to WEDGIE as a compliment on agreeing to his repair technique, eight barrel looked at that as being critical of his work. That couldn't be any further from its intent. Look were all old timers now, we like these cars and have enough knowledge to handle ANY question when it arises. Trying to keep things casual as possible without stepping on any ones toes.

[Bigblock]

And if you are not getting the car judged put in Titanium plugs for the last time.

[Wedgeman]

No one was trying to criticize Eight Barrel's method, just trying to suggest an easier way to  change plugs.....

[427heaven]

I don't think any one thought that but him, just wanted to clarify.

[johnsshelby]

Installing sparkplugs dry can lead to difficulty removing them.  Place some Anti Seize compound on the threads of all the plugs prior to  installation. Removal will be easer when accessed, #8.

[gt350hr]

And if you are not getting the car judged put in Titanium plugs for the last time.

    Platinum , not titanium ( I know what you meant) and yes they last a heck of a long time! BTW BE CAREFUL when using anti sieze as too much can cause some to get into the cylinder and it causes INSTANT detonation problems on an otherwise perfect running engine. Original yellow top coils are better than "most" high performance coils out there .

   Randy

[427heaven]

Or the super plugs ... iridium for super long life-